The Fife Coastal Path

Day 1

The weather wasn’t very good this morning very cloudy with rain forecasted but we were going off anyway. We took the M8 towards Edinburgh and had the expected delays in Glasgow at the Kingston Bridge, but otherwise it was a carefree run. Before reaching Edinburgh I turned off for the Forth Road Bridge and crossed over the River Forth and on the other side we found the park and ride bus terminal that was under the Forth rail bridge and stopped there.

The intention was to walk a loop down to North Queensferry where the Fife Coastal Path began and follow the route which then came through the park and ride where we were parked. Tomorrow we would take the bus from the caravan park, where we were heading tonight, back here to the park and ride for the next stage..

It was about a mile from the car park down to the walk start at North Queensferry and we got magnificent views of both Forth bridges. At North Queensferry it was the usual problem to find the start of a walk but this time we were lucky and it only took a few minutes searching and we were on our way.

 It was just 1½ miles back to the van along a tarred track and back streets that ran beside the River Forth before turning up an inlet at the top of which was the car park. The first part was nice with more stunning views of the bridges but as we turned to the inlet it was an industrial area with a quarry, scrap yard and Tunnel cement plant. The main thing was to get this loop done and tomorrow we would have a straight run into the route proper.

Once back at the van we were soon on our way again heading for our camp site for the night. It was about an hours drive on ‘A’ roads that were busy through the towns of Inverkeithing, Kirkcaldy, Leven and Lundin Links places we will walk through over the next couple of days. Just before Upper Largo we turned at a lane and up a steep hill for ½ mile to the caravan park, Woodland Gardens. The site was small but very nice and we got parked on a hard stand beside a hedge in a grassy corner.

Day 2

We walked down to Lundin Links and the bus arrived on time at 9:04 and it went via Kirkcaldy to Edinburgh. At Kirkcaldy we noted where the bus station was as that was where we hoped to walk to today and catch the bus back from to the caravan park. It was another 30 minutes from Kirkcaldy to the park and ride under the Forth Bridge where we parked yesterday.

At 10:15 we set off on our first real day of the Fife Coastal Path. The first part was up the road and through the centre of Inverkeithing. At the Mercat Cross which required photographs the signpost directed us down to a firm tarred path that ran along the shore side to Dalgety Bay. All along this route were magnificent houses obviously very expensive but handy if you work in Edinburgh which is only 30 minutes away by car. Another tremendous view we got was of the Forth Bridge which we saw more and more of as we rounded the inlet and on to the side of the Firth of Forth.

From Dalgety Bay it was 3 miles of pleasant walking near the shore and at other times through nice wooded areas. One of features on the route was Donibristle House built in the 12^th century it was the residence of the Abbot of Inchcolm and later minor Scottish royalty. It had a chequered history and many fires over the years, it is now converted into luxury flats and as our guide book says ‘we hope they have fire insurance’. Another stopping and camera opportunity was the ruin of St Bridget’s Chapel, a 12^th century church that was in use until well after the Reformation. It was now a ruin with no roof but its main features were still obvious.

It was another 2 miles through some wooded country to the town of Aberdour where it was a walk along the main street before cutting down to the waterside again. There were plenty of benches overlooking the Firth and we sat down and had lunch, There was a plaque near where we sat depicting the view over the Forth, it point out Leith docks, Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle amongst other things and it was a thrill to be able to identify them from here.

After leaving Aberdour the route should have taken us over a rocky cliff, Hawkcraig, but we took a wrong turning and ended up at a dead end below the crag. We made our way round the rocky beach and met a few climbers who were scaling the rock face. Hawkcraig is a favourite spot for climbers. One of them told Moira that we should make our way round the rocks to the lighthouse and pick up our trail there. At the lighthouse the route led round to a lovely beach, Silversands Bay, it was very busy and people were even in swimming, it was a nice day but not that warm. The Scots are a hardy race. From Silversands Bay it was a pleasant walk along a path close to the railway. It was a busy line with trains thundering past every 5 minutes. At the end of the path we came into Burntisland and from there to Kinghorn was the worst section of today’s walk. It ran along the side of the busy A921 for 3 miles, fortunately there was a good pavement all the way. It was a steady climb up to a point overlooking Kinghorn harbour but the scenery was spoiled by a holiday park with hundreds of drab green static caravans covering the hillside. At Kinghorn we were back on to a path along the coast just 3 miles from Kirkcaldy. At the end of the path just before the town we got a bonus with the sight of a colony of seals on a strip of rocks just off the shore. We were attracted first of all by the grunting then a man pointed them out to us. Further over there were many sea birds and a large number of black and white ones swimming about. Later from an info board we could identify these as Eider ducks.

Into Kirkcaldy it was a casual stroll along the esplanade to the point where we cut up to the bus station. We were tired and happy to be finished it had been a long day and 17 miles in our legs. It was 5:00 when we got to the bus station and had 40 minutes to wait for the bus. It didn’t go to St Andrews but finished at Leven where we changed to a local bus. This ended up quite convenient as it went down to Lower Largo then up to the main road again just at the road up to the caravan park. It was a struggle up the hill but we made it and were back before 7:00, a long day!

Day 3

Out again this morning at 8:30 and we walked down to the bus stop at Lundin Links and caught the same bus as yesterday. Today it was just to Kirkcaldy and we got off at the bus station and walked down to the esplanade to pick up the coastal path there.

At the end of the esplanade we had a section through the streets past the remains of the Nairn linoleum factory the first in the industry synonymous with Kirkcaldy. Later along the road there was a plaque telling us that in 1847 Michael Nairn established the Scottish floor cloth Manufactory. Soon after this we came to Ravenscraig Park and cut down the paths to the shore. At the bottom we had good views of Ravenscraig Castle that we had glimpses of from the road. Also at the turning there was an old dovecot and good views back at Kirkcaldy.

        

It was now a pleasant walk along a good path overlooking the Firth to Dysart. The path went through a tunnel cut through the rock to emerge at Dysart harbour, a pretty little shelter for some attractive yachts and other river craft From Dysart it was a path along the Firth side all the way to West Wemyss, it was an enjoyable stroll and went past the walls of an old castle that was now gardens and once through West Wemyss there was another castle on the hill above the path, Wemyss Castle. Further on there was a bit of a climb up to the top of a cliff as the route went past a disused colliery, the Michael pit that was closed in 1967 after a fire that claimed five lives. The winding gear now stands as a memorial. When we reached East Wemyss the trail ran along a promenade and we found a bench to sit and have our lunch.

On the go again it was an excellent track on a disused railway line. It passed some caves and another ruined castle, MacDuff Castle before reaching Buckhaven. At this point it was on the roads again for 2 miles some on the busy A931 through Methil to Leven where we had changed buses yesterday. As we cut down to the esplanade the road went past an energy company, there were rows of structures that looked like platforms but too small for oil drilling. I thought they might be supports for off shore wind mills.

The Leven prom lasted for about ½ mile then we had the choice of going along the beach or a path beside the golf course, Lundin Links. As our legs were tired we thought the sand would be heavy so we took the golf course route. It was enjoyable and easy going we just had to watch out for stray golf balls from the many people playing. At the club house a short track took to the road leading into Lower Largo. At the Crusoe Hotel we turned up the hill to the main road. The Crusoe hotel is named for Robinson Crusoe who was based on the adventures of Alexander Selkirk who was born in Lower Largo. The road up the hill went under a viaduct of a disused railway, below there was a lovely little group of houses around the harbour.

It was about ½ mile up the hill to the main road then the further ½ mile up the hill to the caravan site. It was struggle these hills at the end of the long walk, we had done 13miles today.

Day 4

No need for a bus to the start of our walk this morning, we left at our normal time 8:30 and down the hills to Lower Largo. As we walked through the town there were white painted footprints to depict the ones left by ‘man Friday’ in the Robinson Crusoe’ story. Further on there was a sculpture supposedly depicting ‘Friday’ and over Alexander Selkirk’s house a statue wrongly named as Crusoe.

Leaving Lower Largo the route went up to an old railway, the one that once crossed the viaduct at Largo harbour. It was closed in the sixties by Beeching. The route was now cutoff from views of the coast and sea by large bushes and shrubs, but it was an easy walk. The weather was cloudy and cool but the clouds slowly burnt off during the morning and we had bright blue skies though it was never hot a chilly breeze had us keeping our tops on.

The track followed the old railway for about a mile then there was a split. We could either go along the beach or at high tide an alternative path over the dunes. Although it was still low tide we didn’t fancy walking on the sand so headed over the dunes which was fairly firm underfoot. At the end of the dunes section we came to Cocklemill Burn, this used to be a ‘paddle’ according to the guide book but two bridges had been erected and made life easier. Once over the bridges the route left the shore and went through a holiday park with lots of static caravans but back towards the coast again we came to Kincraig Hill, there was supposed to be a route scrambling over the rocks assisted by chains. I wanted to go that way but Moira was reluctant, anyway we missed the turn off and ended up taking the alternative over the top of the hill. Once at the top we could see the route below with the chains to make the climbs and scrambling easier. At the top of the hill there were gun emplacements and an observation post from the war. Also there was a communications mast and trig point, 63 metres. From this point we got wondrous views back to Leven and Largo and onwards to Elie, below there were golden sands with little waves , no surfing breakers here.

At the bottom of the other side of the hill we met up with the rock route again and this time we took the beach way instead of the dunes. The sand was firmly packed and it was easy going, at the end of the beach we cut up through a church graveyard and on to the roads into Earlsferry and Elie. At the end of the village we cut down to the harbour and on along more streets to a path that took us up to a picnic area next to a lighthouse at Ruby Bay. We stopped here for our lunch, sandwiches and water.

From our stopping point it was a good firm path close to the beach all the way to St Monans. On the way there were the ruins of two castles. The first Ardross Castle didn’t look much more than the remains of a large house though it did have at the corners structures that could have been turrets, further on Newark Castle was more impressive and had a commanding position at a point on the top of the cliff at a promontory. From St Monans to Pittenweem we went passed a windmill that was originally used to pump sea water to pans and evaporated using local coal to produce the sea salt. The windmill is still in good condition but of the series of buildings with the boilers and pans only the foundations remain. There was a number of boards describing the process and drawings of how the area once looked. It was a good path in to Pittenweem and from there it was another mile to Anstruther and the route skirted around yet another golf course.

Once in Anstruther we quickly made our way to the harbour where the bus terminus was and we had half an hour to wait for the express bus and found out that it stopped at the junction up to the caravan site but it was the usual struggle up the hill.

Day 5

This morning we went to Upper Largo for the bus., a footpath beside the site was signposted as a route to Upper Largo so we took that. It was a pleasant grassy track through fields of bright yellow rape growing and came out at cemetery at the top of the village; a short walk down a hill brought us to the bus stop. It was a charming small country village with a couple of shops, the local post office cum general store and the church with a tall spire. We had about 20 minutes to wait for the bus and then another 30 to take us to Anstruther Harbour where we finished yesterday.

Leaving Anstruther was by the back streets witcars parked half over the pavement making it difficult to walk, that’s what traffic wardens should put a stop to!! There was another lovely little harbour at Cellardyke to the east of Anstruther then through another caravan park with lots of static vans before we were out in the country and on a rough path along the sea shore. Just at the start of the track on the landward side there was a huge pig farm. It was free range and was all in the open with little houses for all the pig families. There were water troughs and feeding chutes scattered around and some the pigs had lots of little piglets running after them. We spent quite a time there watching and photographing. It was 3 miles to Crail and the Caiplie Caves were the next photo stop, a series of strangely shaped rocks one with a hole through it at the top and large caves at the bottom.The view out to sea wasn’t very good today there was a heat haze and we could just make out the Isle of May but little else. There were some ruined houses on the trail just before we got a climb that took us to a point overlooking Crail harbour. It was a lovely view down to the harbour with lots of little craft anchored there and the hillside festooned with brilliant red and purple wild flowers. With the bright sun in a clear blue sky it was the perfect summer’s day. 

From our view point the road dropped down to the harbour then up a hill on the other side. A notice told us that the rare sea bird the Fulmar nested on these cliffs and I spotted two that were sitting on nests further down the rock face. It took some twisting and bending over the guard rails but I did manage to get some pictures of them. The road dropped down again to the sea front and a tarred path took us to yet another holiday park. This one was enormous with rows and rows of statics and holiday homes like old prefabs; it went for nearly a mile.

Another mile after the holiday park took us along a rocky coast to Fife Ness where the Firth of Forth finishes and we were now beside the North Sea. There was a coastguard station at the point and a few houses. We stopped for lunch, nice chicken sandwiches, sitting on the rocks beside an old ruined harbour that the coastguards used at one time to combat smuggling. From now on there seemed to be one links golf course after the other along the coast. The path ran beside the fairways at times and we had to avoid a few flying golf balls, and at other times we were forced on to the beach and rocks to find our way along the coast. Today was a short day and we had only 4 miles from our lunch stop at Fife Ness to our finish at Kingsbarn, where we caught the bus. It was a long trip now back to the site as we get further and further away, it took an hour. We got off at Upper Largo and took the route we came this morning, the hill up to the track through the fields wasn’t as steep as our normal climb..

Day 6

We walked down the hill to the bus stop at the top of the road from Lower Largo and caught the 95 bus. This local bus goes round the houses and through all the villages and we didn’t get to Kingsbarns for over an hour, so it was a late start when we reached the trail again ½ mile down the lane.

Things were looking brighter as we began, the clouds breaking up and some blue sky appearing and it was fairly warm. Lots of people were golfing as the first part of the trail took us beside the fairway and we were on the look-out for wildly hit golf balls. Soon we came to a sign as we left the links that it was 7½ miles to St Andrews. The going was rough where parts of the path had been eroded or washed away in storms and we had to walk on the beach or scramble over rocks. Fortunately the tide wasn’t high or we would have been cut off in places where signs warned us to wait until high tides receded before continuing. The area was otherwise remote and only ruined houses popped up every now and then along the route, One good thing about the clear weather today was that the views out to sea were better and the Isle of May nice and clear.

The path turned inland to the village Borehills then headed back to the coast and here the cliffs were higher. The path undulated between the cliff top and the beach and now on the coast again we got our first glimpse of St Andrews in the distance but as we rounded points and promontories it still didn’t seem to get any closer.

With still two miles still to go to this golfing capital we stopped for lunch at a solitary bench on the beach for lunch. There was a bin there but it was overflowing with rubbish scattered all around. It’s not much use supplying bins in remote places if nobody is going to come and empty them. After lunch there were more ups and downs on narrow paths and scrambles on the beach. An interesting formation on the beach, Rock and Spindle, held us up slightly for photographs before the path levelled out along the cliff tops beside yet another golf course then yet another caravan park before entering St Andrews.

The route through St Andrews followed all the tourist attractions, the Cathedral, St Rule’s Tower, St Andrews Castle and the Old Course. At the Old Course lots of work was going on for the Open Championship beginning here in July. Many of the grandstands had been erected but still plenty was going on. People were still playing on the course, many tourist judging by the times we saw them stop on their round to take photographs of famous parts of the course. I was also busy with my camera and got some good shots of all the attractions.

Leaving the famous golf course our trail picked up the Kingdom of Fife cycle track and headed up the side of the river Eden to a crossing at Guardbridge about 4 miles on. There we got a bus back to St. Andrews and after a ¾ hour wait a connection back to Upper Largo.

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Day 7

It was the express bus to St Andrews and it only took an hour. When we arrived there was a bus just about to leave for Dundee and we jumped on, in another 15 minutes we were at Guardbridge and starting the last leg of the Coastal Path. There were blue patches beginning to appear in the sky but the wind was strong and cold.

An old narrow foot bridge parallel to the road bridge took us over the river Eden and picked up the Kingdom of Fife cycle route which we followed for most of the day. The tarred track and at times the pavement went round the houses of Guardbridge and then the Air Force base at Leuchers before heading into the country. During this period jets were continuously landing and taking off at the base and the noise was thunderous, but a magnificent sight. At the gate leading into the countryside a sign said ‘keep to the track until the next marker’; we didn’t see another way mark. We came to a farm and the map showed that the route should go straight on but straight meant into the farm and the track went to the left. Moira asked a woman who came along walking her dog but she was clueless, so we just followed the track as instructed at the last gate. It was obviously not right as it continued in the wrong direction, there were no signs and when we eventually reached a minor road a notice pointing back said ‘Coastal Path 1 Mile’. I didn’t fancy walking back a mile to look for a route at the farm again and stood wondering which direction to take on this road. A post office van came down the road and I flagged him down, a postman should know where we were. He did and said that we could continue down the road and we turn right shortly and head to Kinshaldy Beach, though he said we would be better to go back along the track and find the Coastal Path. Kinshaldy Beach was on our map and the Path went there so we kept to the road, no going back to get lost again.

At the right turn on the road a sign post showed ‘Parking for Coastal Path 2 Miles’, which was just before the beach, we were definitely back on track. Another mile further the route we should have taken joined the road; Moira reckoned we had taken a 2 mile detour. The road was now entering a wooded area, the Tentsmuir Forest, and headed to a car park and picnic area just before the beach, we were on the coast again. We found a table in among the trees sheltered from the cold wind that was still blowing and had our lunch, it was a pleasant spot and a number of people were about who had mostly come by car.

It was only a ten minute break for lunch and we were on our way again. There were plenty of signs on the route now, it was the Kingdom of Fife and also the’1’ cycle routes, a local marked walk and the Coastal Path. The track went through the trees of the Tentsmuir Forest for about 5 miles and wasn’t very interesting but for the chorus of whistles from the birds in the trees. Shortly we came to an old brick structure that had been an ice house for freezing salmon caught in the River Tay. It was now unused except for the bats that had taken over as a home, but we couldn’t see any through the slot in the door, it was too dark inside. The beach wasn’t far away just 25 metres through the trees, we could see it at the ice house stop and there was a big surf breaking on the North Sea beach helped by the strong wind. At Tentsmuir Point there was a view point; this was where the Firth of Tay met the North Sea and the coast turned to follow the River Tay. Across the Firth we could se the town of Broughty Ferry and further up the out skirts of Dundee, but no sign yet of the Tay Bridge.

            

The path went into the forest again and we only caught occasional glimpses of the sea at the foot of small side tracks that led down to the beach. The weather had now brightened up with plenty of blue sky, the wind had dropped. At the end of the forest we entered the outskirts and houses of Tayport and the road made its way down to the esplanade that ran along the side of the Firth. Soon we were through Tayport and on a tarred cycle path probably an old railway track that went through more trees. As we came out of the trees and a mile to go we got our first sight of the Tay Bridge.It wasn’t far away but tantalisingly didn’t seem to get any closer. I got some good photographs of the bridge but it isn’t as attractive as the Forth bridges. At the end of Coastal Path it was disappointing, there was no welcoming signs saying such things as ‘Congratulations, you have made it’. All we had to do was find the place to get the bus back. It took a while to find the correct bus stop but once there had only 5 minutes to wait for the bus. It took 30 minutes to get to St Andrews then catch our connection to Upper Largo.