JOHN MUIR WAY: DAY 9 ABERLADY to DUNBAR

 

Friday 6 June.

The weather forecast was looking very promising for today. We were ready early and left the house at 7am, Moira was going to drive all the way through to Aberlady where we finished our walk on Sunday. We were making good time when all of a sudden we came to a standstill on the M8 motorway to Edinburgh. The traffic was stopped for about 15 minutes then all of sudden we were moving again and at a good speed. There was no sign of what had caused the holdup, no accidents or breakdowns, it was a complete mystery. ( Later Suzy told us that she heard about the traffic jam on the news and it was a demonstrator wearing nothing but tartan shorts who had got on to the motorway and stopped the traffic. The police arrested him)

Moira drove round the city by-pass to the A1 and exited at the junction for Tranent where we picked up the A198 to Aberlady. We looked for a car park on the river side coming into the town but there was nothing convenient. We ended up leaving the car at a spot in a housing estate just out of town. It was only a short walk to the town centre where we picked up the signs for the 'John Muir Way'. The section after the town wasn't very pleasant, running alongside the busy A198 for a couple of kilometres. Soon things became better as we left the road and followed a track running beside the Luffness Golf Course.

It was now very nice between the golf course and the hedgerows while to our right was the towering pointed hill that we had taken for Bass Rock the other day. Moira still maintained it was that rock but later we discovered it was North Berwick Law, the high ancient extinct volcano that dominates North Berwick. Another point of interesting was the ruins of Saltcoats Castle but the path turned to the left and into Gullane before we reached it for a closer inspection. The route took us along the main street of Gullane and as we left the town it was on a narrow grassy path at the side of the A198 again. The reason we were kept far from the Firth was that the famous golf course, Muirfield, ran along the coast; this course is the home of The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers and the venue for last year's Open Championship.

After about a kilometre on the roadside the route turned left into Archerfield Estate on a path through the trees and over fields. After 800 metres we crossed the village green to Dirleton Castle which dates from the 13th century. The route then went up Manse Road to the war memorial and the church. Once out of the village we were turned onto a confusion of daisy covered paths with no signs indicating which to take. We kept to what looked like the main one and ended up at the 10^thtee of the North Berwick West Links. There was a bench handy at the tee where we had a break for a cup of coffee from our flask while four women drove their golf balls up the 10^th fairway. I consulted the guide book and it said that there was an alternative way to reach North Berwick by taking to the beach at low tide. As we had obviously lost the waymarked route we made for the sandy option. We made our way along the beach and now had a view of the islands; Fidra, Lamb, Craigleith and at last, definitely, Bass Rock. The island of Fidra, off the rocky headland of Longskelly Point, is a RSPB reserve and reportedly the inspiration for RL Stevenson's 'Treasure Island'. The lighthouse on the point was certainly built by his cousin, David Stevenson in 1885.

         

Once we got nearer the shoreline the sand became hard packed, easy for walking and we made good time. We reached a stream with a bridge near some houses which we thought was the town but when we asked some dog walkers we were told to keep to the beach around the next point and we would then see North Berwick proper. It was another 20 minutes before we saw the actual town but had to cross the golf course to reach the road leading into the centre. It was a lovely town with quaint shops and a beautiful beach; an old fashioned holiday resort. We now picked up the waymarks, the route we had missed ran up the other side of the golf course but our alternative rewarded up with beautiful views of the Firth and the islands.

SCOTTISH SEABIRD CENTRE

The Firth of Forth is a key seabird breeding area and this is an ideal location for viewing and learning. Opened in 2000, the award winning attraction houses a Discovery Centre (entry fee) with Wildlife Theatre, Flyway Tunnel (simulation of migratory birds), Environment Zone and Scope Deck. It also has gift shop and cafe. Seasonal boat trips to Bass Rock and the Isle of May are available. See: www.seabird.org.

As we left the town centre the route became a bit confusing again and we couldn't figure out where the arrow on the signpost was pointing. While standing scratching our heads a woman asked if we were doing the 'John Muir' and then directed us through the gates to what we thought were to the gardens of a large white mansion. This was the entrance to the restored Lodge Grounds. It was a pleasant walk through the grounds and when we exited, towering in front of us was, North Berwick Law, the pointed hill we had been seeing for some time and mistaken for Bass Rock. The side facing us was very steep but as we rounded the hill the other side was a bit more of a gentle climb and the route to the top was marked from a small car park. It was an hour's round trip to the summit but that was left for another day. As we made our way further round the Law, the summit path twisted its way above some steep rocky cliffs. In other direction to our right we could still see the other major hill we passed a few days ago, Arthur's Seat.

          

NORTH BERWICK LAW

The remnant of an ancient volcano, this lava plug was exposed during the last Ice Age. Its prominence belies its modest height (187m/613ft), and for centuries it has served as a lookout. Its summit has ruins of a very old stone watch-house and intact World War 2 brick lookout, along with a fibreglass arch that in 2008 replaced the traditional whalebone one. The summit panorama is amazing: the Forth Bridges in the west, over North Berwick and across the Firth to Fife in the north, out to the North Sea in the east and south to the Lammermuir Hills. See: www.northberwick.org.uk.

Our path now made its way round cultivated fields, on at times no more than overgrown tractor tracks. Soon we entered East Wood with an easier-walking-gravel path and the cool shelter of the trees. After a short break along the roadside it was into Craigmoor Wood with an undulating path. The ups and downs of this section made a change from the continuous flat walking and we were able to stride out using a different set of muscles. We were looking for a bench or a nice place to stop for lunch but when you are looking for a convenient spot nothing appears. We crossed a minor road and down a tarred lane to Stonelaws, a group of farm buildings, hoping for at least a wall to sit on. We ended up on the grass with our backs to a gate for our break and picnic.

At the end of the lane we were again in open country and on overgrown paths through fields. A signpost said 'East Linton 2 miles' but there was no sign of any habitation. There was a hill in front and once we crested it we could see the houses of the village down the other side. This was to be the end of our walk for the day and we headed for the centre of the village to find a bus stop. It was only about 12km from here to the finish at Dunbar and our plan was to drive through early, do the last part then visit Hector and Fiona in Ayton just a short drive away. When we found a bus stop and consulted the time table our plans had to be amended. The next bus from here to North Berwick wasn’t for another 1½ hours and the first bus in the morning from Dunbar to here was at 7:45am; we would have to leave at about 5:30am to catch that one and the one after it wasn't until 10am, too late! We were a bit tired and our feet were getting sore but we decided to carry on and make it to Dunbar and the finish today.

The route out of the village took us past Preston Kirk then over the River Tyne by a footbridge to Preston Mill.

     

East Lothian's most picturesque landmark is a 17th century water mill still in working order. It is now maintained as a museum by the National Trust for Scotland and makes a great visit in summer but opening times are very limited: from 12:30 to 17:00 Thursdays to Mondays, for guided tours only. See: www.nts.org.uk.

The way now followed the River Tyne, not the English one that meets the sea at Newcastle, but the borders river that rises in the Moorfoot Hills in Midlothian near Tynehead to the south of Edinburgh. It continues for approx. 30 miles in a north-eastern direction, and it empties into the North Sea near Belhaven.

           

The path criss-crossed the river a number of times by delightful old stone bridges and the river was fast flowing in places. It eventually crosses a broad timbered foot bridge near a farm shop to a road that took us to Buist’s Embankment. This embankment was built in the 19^th century to reclaim land for farming. The narrow-overgrown-undulating track ran down the side of the wide estuary of the Tyne, the river now a narrow channel meandering over extensive mud flats.

We now reached the ‘John Muir Country Park’:

The Way enters the Park at Tyninghame and remains within it until the finish in Dunbar. Nearly 2000 acres of land between Tyninghame and Belhaven was set aside in 1976 with varied habitats – salt marsh, coast, grassland and woodland. More than 400 plant species have been recorded, notably thrift on the marsh and bird’s foot trefoil in the dunes. Among the birds present are eider, shelduck, gannet, skylark and ringed plover. The Clifftop Trail provides an excellent introduction to the Park. See: www.eastlothian.gov.uk/info.

After leaving the estuary the route passed the East Links Family Park where saw llamas grazing then after the Country Park car park there was confusion again with which route to take; we settled on the beach option, round the glorious sands of Belhaven Bay, as the tide was still low. At the end of the beach a footbridge took us over Biel Water where it enters the sea. From there the Clifftop Trail shirted around the perimeter of the Winterfield Golf Course. The route by the cliffs seemed a long way to go when we could see the Dunbar and the finish straight ahead of us. We found a path that ‘cut the corner’ and crossed the fairways. We still had outstanding views of the North Sea and in the distance the isle of May. Fortunately it was only 5:30pm and the evening golfers weren’t out yet and no golf balls flying about our heads.

When we reached the road it was now only a short distance to the town centre. We passed a rugged coastline with Dunbar Castle on one promontory then reached where the Clifftop Trail entered the town. We headed for the High St in search of a bus stop and found the statue of John Muir in the middle of the town.

         

                                             

At the bus stop we found that the Edinburgh bus didn’t go through Aberlady so we waited for the local bus to North Berwick. ‘Traveline’ told us to get off at Tesco shopping centre in North Berwick for our connection to Aberlady. We had another 30 minute wait there and it was now getting quite cold. We spent the time in the supermarket to keep warm but had to avoid the area with the fridges! When we got to Aberlady the little town was very busy with some function and the centre was jammed with parked cars. When we got going Moira took the Haddington road which avoided the town centre and took us to the A1 by a back road. Once on the motorway there were no hold ups and we were home in another 2hours.

At Port Glasgow we got fish suppers in the town centre for our dinner. It was 9:30pm when we got in and after our fish and chips it was time for bed. It had been a long day having walked nearly 40km, we were both very tired.

JOHN MUIR WAY: DAY 8 ‘JEWEL’ EDINBURGH to ABERLADY

 

Sunday 1 June.

We were heading out this morning to do another section of the ‘John Muir Way’. Moira was up first this morning and made the breakfast which we had in bed, it was the bacon and egg day as well. Moira had checked out the bus times last night on ‘Taveline’ and the first bus leaving for Glasgow was at 7:44am from the Port Glasgow terminus. We waited until 7:50am and still no sign of the bus, we decided to go by car instead. I suggested parking by the river in Glasgow and take the bus to Edinburgh but Moira said that as she was having to drive now she would go all the way to where we start walking. The annoying thing was that as we came out of the library car park the bus drove through the terminus, it was 15 minutes late. It turned out better in the end, we ended up starting our day’s walk at 9:30am probably an hour earlier than if we had caught the bus. At first we were going to park at the city by-pass and get the bus to the Jewel where we finished on Friday but I spotted on the map that there was a ‘Park and Ride’ just off the far end of the by-pass. This was at Newcraighall only 1½ miles from Musselburgh it was also very close to where we finished at the Jewel but instead of going there we took a route that ran more or less parallel to the official route.

We thought at first it was along the road into Musselburgh but a local path took us round some football fields and into a wooded track to the Queen Margaret University. Once on the road again we passed Musselburgh railway station before reaching the River Esk. The road ran beside the river with its lovely bridges into the town centre. We still hadn’t found any indication of the official route markers but knew from the map that it ran behind the Race Course; we followed the signs for the track through the town. When we reached the Race Course we asked a couple of locals for directions to the sea front and were told to take a path over the race track. We found the gate and path, ducked under the rails watching for any stray horses then it was over a golf course now keeping an eye out for golf balls. On the other side there was a well-defined track that took us round a hill to the coast. Now there was a tarred cycle track running parallel to the water’s edge and the ‘John Muir’ waymarks; we were back on track.

               

Musselburgh racecourse is located in Scotland’s oldest town. Musselburgh is just six miles away from Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital. The first event took place in the town in 1816 in what was known as the Edinburgh Races. These races took place in Musselburgh Links, the world’s oldest golf course. At one time, racing at Musselburgh was only enjoyed by nobles. This changed in the 20^th century and in the 1950s, Musselburgh was packed for every event. The introduction of betting shops was disastrous in Scotland with several courses closing down. Musselburgh was also in trouble but in 1991, the East Lothian Council took over and balanced the course’s books within a year. Musselburgh hosts approximately 25 race events a year on its 1 mile 3 furlong course. It was originally a course that held flat racing only but there are jumping events held there now. The fences are easily negotiated though the sharp bends could cause problems. The course’s soil is well drained which means it does not have problems during Scotland’s frequently inclement weather.

The path ran along the coast and on a promontory in the distance were the chimneys of Cockenzie power station. Further ahead out in the estuary we could see Bass Rock, the rocky island offshore at North Berwick but still a long way away. On the other side of the Forth was the coast of Fife that we had walked along a few years ago. Behind, the horizon was dominated by Arthur’s Seat that would be visible all day. Soon the path deviated from the shore line and cut in to enter the town of Prestonpans. Through the town many of the walls were decorated with murals and a ‘mural’s walk’ was advertised. One wall was dedicated to John Muir and showed him by a stream with a pub behind; this was the Fowler’s pub opposite.

                               

Prestonpans was the site of a famous battle in the 1745 Jacobite uprising but we didn’t see anything to commemorate this success for Prince Charles against the Government forces.

      

On 21 September 1745 the Jacobite army, led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart and commanded by Lord George Murray, roundly defeated the Government army. During the brief battle fewer than 100 Jacobites were killed, buit hundreds of government troops were killed or wounded and 1500 taken prisoner, in 1953 a memorial cairn was erected close to the site which was more recently identified in 2010. A special heritage trust was founded in 2006: www.battleof prestonpans1745.org.

Shortly after leaving Prestonpans we found a nice seat at a bridge where we had a cup of coffee from our flask and a piece of cake. After that we headed towards the old power station but the ‘Way’ deviated from the obvious good track along the coast and made its way to the main road for some reason. A local told us to keep to the coast and we would pick up the official trail at the power station. The Cockenzie Power Station was coal fired and opened in 1968. It closed in 2012 and is in the process of being demolished. A gas fired plant is planned to replace it. The coal was ground to a fine powder for better combustion and a typical mill with the grinding balls was left as a monument in the town.

After Cockenzie the trail enter Port Seton and round the harbour, dried up at low tide with the boats lying adrift in the mud. The route now followed close to the road on a narrow sandy path. Just after a holiday park, Seton Sands Holiday Village, with lots of mobile homes we found a spot near the beach for our lunch stop. This stretch was Longliddry Bends; there were many car parks and obviously a popular spot considering the number of cars and people on the beach.

After lunch the path continued on the winding sandy path until we reached the entrance to Gosford House.

GOSFORD HOUSE

                  

This neo-classical mansion was designed by Robert Adam as the seat of the Earls of Wemyss and March. It was completed in 1800 but later extensively altered. It features an impressive three-storey marble hall dating from 1890. It houses a remarkable art collection and is mainly used for corporate functions. It is surrounded by 5000 acres of parkland and coastline.

It is open for shorts periods during August for afternoon guided tours only, fee applies. See: www.gosfordhouse.co.uk.

The route cut away from the coast as it headed inland to avoid the long distance round the promontory into Gosford Bay and Aberlady Bay. We crossed a wooden bridge over Harestanes Burn and entered Harestanes Wood lined with huge concrete blocks, anti tank blocks from the last War. The path passed the Graigielaw Golf Course which was very busy, surprisingly with lots of youngsters; it must have been a special day for them. The route soon came on to the road at Aberlady and we spotted a bus stop. Our legs were tired and feet sore, so when we checked the time table and a bus due shortly, we decided to call it a day.

This bus was only 5 minutes late and it took us to Musselburgh. We got off at the High St and caught another bus there for Newcraighall. In Edinburgh area the bus stops have electronic boards with the times of buses coming, telling you whether they are on time or not. Ours was on time and we were soon back at the car and heading home. The weather had been good today, not sunny like yesterday but warm and dry. Now on the way back it changed and we got heavy rain in the Glasgow area.

JOHN MUIR WAY: DAY 7 CRAMOND to the ‘JEWEL’ EDINBURGH

 

Friday 30 May.

A high pressure system was over the country; Carol, the weather ‘girl’ on BBC Breakfast said it would still be cloudy but dry and warm. That was good enough for us and I was up at 5:30am to shower and make the breakfast. The plan was to just use buses mainly today and we parked as usual at the library and caught the bus at 7:30am (it was late) for Glasgow. It was busy with not much room but the people who had the odd free seat beside them resented you sitting next to them and only grudgingly moved to allow us in. At Buchanan St terminus we were almost immediately on the bus to Edinburgh. I had the iPad and Moira brought the new Asus tablet so we read our books on the way. 'Traveline' told us to catch the 40 or 40A bus to Cramond from George St but when we got off there none of the bus stops listed these bus numbers. We walked round to Princes St before we found a bus stop with them listed but ended up getting a different one entirely that had Cramond on its signboard. Moira followed the route the bus was taking on the map; where we finished the other day, at Cramond Brig, was on the A90. The bus was going along the A90 but turned into the town before reaching the Brig, we got off immediately and walked the rest of the way.

It was only a 10 minute walk down the hill before we recognised the place where we had caught the bus to Queensferry. The 'Way' started on the other side of the Cramond Brig and we dropped down to a path that ran beside the River Almond. The bridge on the A90 above was a new crossing the 'Brig' crossed the river below and was 'Cramond Old Brig' and was a stone arched structure over the tree lined river.

We were on a tarred cycle path which made its way to an area of large expensive houses. We came to a cul-de-sac and the continuation looked like somebody's driveway but a workman told us to carry on and the path developed on the other side of the houses. It went past a golf course before reaching the Royal High School and into Davidson Mains Park. It was only in the park for a short stretch before a long climb took us across the A90, that the bus came along earlier, to continue climbing up Corstorphine Hill. At the top the sign posting was confusing and we headed down a long hill through a residential area. This was the cycle route and we should have continued straight at the top of the hill into Corstorphine Hill Nature Reserve and the Clermiston Tower, a monument built in 1871 as a memorial to Sir Walter Scott. Our route at the bottom of the hill crossed a busy road and into a green and treed area. There was an old railway track tarred over for a walking route into the city. It was a pleasant walk along the tree lined path and it seemed very popular with walkers and cyclists. A few kilometres on there was a turning off the rail path which we followed ending up at the gate at the bottom end of the Nature Reserve. We realised our mistake that this was the exit from route we should have taken at the top of the hill. This was confirmed back at the rail path where the signs showed two routes, the walking one and the other for cyclists, we had been on the cycling one.

 

THE WATER OF LEITH WALKWAY

The walkway passes through many areas of interest including: Colinton Village and Dell, the Union Canal, Saughton Winter Gardens, Murrayfield Stadium, the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art, Dean Village, Stockbridge, the Royal Botanic Garden and Leith. Ideal for family walks, the walkway is a delightful afternoon’s stroll, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The route is suitable for cycling and is accessible in part by wheelchairs and even by horseback.

The City of Edinburgh Council Natural Heritage Service operates on the Water of Leith which was completed in 2002 courtesy of Millennium Project funding.

Because of the nature of the Walkway winding through the heart of our city, you can choose to join it and leave it at lots of places up and down the river, linking with other paths, cycle routes, the canal and Pentland Hills .

 

At the end of the old railway track route we reached one of the new tram stops. Edinburgh's controversial new transport system starts tomorrow morning on the line connecting the city centre to the Airport. We sat on one of the benches on the platform and had our lunch. From the tramline we continued over some busy streets and intersections, just before reaching Murrayfield rugby stadium instead of heading straight for the short distance into the city centre we turned along the Water of Leith Walkway. We had done this walkway route a few years ago but not this part, we had started nearer the city centre. This took a big loop through Saughton Park to eventually pick up the Union Canal again at Slateford Aqueduct that carried the canal over both road and Water of Leith. To get up to the Union Canal involved a climb of 87 steps. One side of the stairway had a channel similar to the one we saw at the Alhambra in Grenada to drain water from above. Fortunately the day was dry and so was the channel.

              

                                                                                                                         

It was now a pleasant walk along the towpath but the path was narrow and cyclists were annoying, zooming up at our backs without much warming and we had to jump quickly. The canal ended at Lochrin Basin with lots of narrow boats and barges moored there, we crossed to the other side by the Leamington Lift bridge and through the streets to the Meadows, a vast expanse of parkland in the city centre.

ARTHUR’S SEAT

At 251m (823 ft.) this is a superb viewpoint for the city and the Firth of Forth. An ancient volcano, its rocks were exposed by glacial erosion, notably the basalt columns of Salisbury Crags. The hill was important in the evolution of modern geological understanding. On the summit and slopes are various prehistoric and later settlement and defence sites.

This is a Site of Special scientific Interest and part of a Scheduled Ancient Monument. In 2013, Lonely Planet listed it among its ‘top 10’ urban walks worldwide. See: www.snh.org.uk and www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.

         

We could see the Castle in the distance but the path through the Meadows headed away from it to Arthur's Seat. There we picked up another old railway 'The Innocent Railway" converted into a cycling and walking track. We were amused at a small boy learning to cycle, the track had a slight slope and he was all right going down but he didn't like the effort of pedalling up again. It was a nice walk under the shear rocky sides of Arthur's Seat but we were getting tired. When we reached a main road at the Edinburgh suburb, ‘the Jewel’ and spotted a bus stop we made for it. We had only 10 minutes to wait for a bus to take us back to the city centre. When we reached the bus station we just missed a bus for Glasgow but the next one was in only another 10 minutes. We were soon on our way home again. It was the rush hour when we were getting out of Edinburgh and it was slow going until the bus reached the M8 motorway. It took 90 minutes to get to Glasgow and we caught the Dunoon bus that was leaving straight away. It was nearly 7pm when we drove up the hill home.

         

JOHN MUIR WAY: DAY 6 BO’NESS to CRAMOND

 

Wednesday 28 May.

The TV weather forecast wasn’t looking as good as the one they gave yesterday but we were going walking anyway. Moira had her shower then we got everything ready and were on our way just after 7am. We decided to go to the day’s start by car, Moira drove while I read my book on the iPad. We went on the M8 towards Edinburgh and the traffic was heavy with a lot of minor hold-ups. The rain had started just after we left home and it was very heavy at times, but we could see some lighter sky in the east and we had our fingers crossed. We left the motorway at the junction for Falkirk and after about 8 miles took a turning to Linlithgow. We went through the middle of Linlithgow which was a nice little historic town with some beautiful buildings. It wasn’t very far now to Bo’ness and the rain had gone off. We left the car in the car park near where we caught the bus after we finished our walk on the last section from Falkirk.

Although the rain was off the clouds were still heavy and I wore my water proof trousers on top of my shorts. We weren’t walking for long when we stopped and got our rain jackets out. It hadn’t started raining but the wind coming off the Forth estuary was cold and the jackets kept us warm. The path ran along just above the shore. The tide was well out and on the mud flats hundreds of birds, much smaller than the normal gulls were busy pecking into the mud for food. The path was good and ran round Bo’ness harbour before meeting the shore line again. There was a notice warning about work on the path and it would be impassable at low tide. This section came just before we reached Blackness Castle and we had to walk along the gravelly beach. We had a beautiful view of the castle on a point going out into the estuary and behind our first sightings of the Forth bridges.

BLACKNESS CASTLE

Built in the 15th century by one of Scotland’s most powerful families, the Crichtons, Blackness was never destined as a peaceful lordly residence; its enduring roles were those of garrison fortress and state prison. In 1537, James V (1513–42) embarked on an ambitious programme to convert the 15th-century castle into a formidable artillery fortification. The looming threat from Henry VIII’s Protestant England was the catalyst. The work was completed in 1543, just as the ‘Wars of the Rough Wooing’ were about to erupt.
Mighty Blackness had none of the subtlety of the great Italianate artillery fortifications. Instead, a brute mass of masonry (the ‘stern’ tower) confronted bombardment from the land, with defensive cannons firing through yawning great gunholes positioned to give all-round firepower. The vastly strengthened castle withstood various sieges, until in 1650 Oliver Cromwell’s heavy guns devastated the defences, forcing the garrison to surrender. The scars of that bombardment are still in evidence today.

A state prison:

Dour Blackness was no suitable residence for a nobleman. It was a garrison stronghold first and foremost. It also came to be used as a state prison for those whom the reigning sovereign wished to see safely out of the way.
Countless noblemen were held here during the later Middle Ages, none more important perhaps than Cardinal David Beaton, Archbishop of St Andrews, in 1543. In the notorious ‘Killing Time’ of the 1670s and 1680s, many a Covenanter (religious dissident) was incarcerated here by Charles II and James VIII. In the later 18th century, Blackness served as a prison of war for foreign sailors and soldiers captured during the wars with France, Spain and the fledgling United States of America.

         

There were picnic tables in front of the castle and we sat there and had a cup of coffee and a piece of cake. It was still cold and not very pleasant sitting in the wind from the river, we soon moved on again. Just after leaving Bo’ness we spoke to a man out walking his dog, he said when went through the gate from the castle we should  leave the marked trail and go right up the hill for better views of the river. We ignored his advice and stuck to the official ‘Way’ and were glad we did. Although we couldn’t see the river we had a delightful walk through a woodland, Wester Shore Wood, thick with oak, beech and Scots pine.. The trees also created a shelter from the wind and it was feeling warm. Once clear of the woods the track ran beside the walls of the Hopetoun estate and through the trees we managed to glimpse part of the magnificent mansion.

HOPETOUN HOUSE

Home to the Earl of Hopetoun, the house is open to visitors from Easter to the end of September, and offers as seasonal tearoom and nature trails within the grounds (entry fees apply). The surrounding Hopetoun Estate extends over 6500 acres and includes self- Regarded as Scotland’s finest stately home, Hopetoun House was completed in 1707, then enlarged my William Adam in 1721. catering accommodation, clay pigeon shooting and Hopetoun farm shop. See: www.hopetoun.co.uk.

       

The drive from the house was a mass of colour on both sides from numerous varieties of rhododendron bushes. The dive ended in a curved gateway.

        

When we picked up the road outside the estate it was along the shore to Queensferry and we were now very close to the bridges that were towering overhead in front of us. The new bridge was progressing with the support columns in position across the river. The beginnings of the actual bridge were projecting over the road. Under this was a children’s play park with benches and we stopped there for our lunch. The old road bridge must be really heavy with traffic as the noise of the cars and trucks crossing was very loud, and it was mid-day, not the rush hour.

THE THREE FORTH BRIDGES

The new Queensferry crossing is due to open in 2016, just west of the existing road bridge which opened in 1964. Recent concerns about traffic levels and maintenance of its suspension cables led to the commissioning of the new road bridge. Traffic is to be shared between them. The original ‘Forth Bridge’ opened in 1890 and has carried the mainline railway ever since. It was the World’s first giant steel bridge and its p[perpetual need for repainting was legendary until 2011 when an epoxy paint promised a 25 year respite. It has been nominated for World Heritage status. See: www.forthbridgeworldheritage.com.

             

             

We thought about calling it a day and getting a bus from here back to Bo’ness but it was early and the weather was improving, the sun was trying to break through. We decided to continue to Cramond on the outskirts of Edinburgh, another 10km. The next bus leaving Queensferry for Bo’ness wasn’t for another hour and we didn’t fancy hanging about.

Queensferry was a nice quaint little town with lots of souvenir shops, pubs called either something ‘ferry’ or something ‘bridge’. There was one place called the ‘3 Bridges’ I wonder if it had been named recently? There were sailing sightseeing cruises on the ‘Maid of the Forth’ to see the bridges close up. All along the town the views of the bridges were magnificent and through the window of a restaurant we could see the customers at their tables and through a window behind them the old railway bridge.

After leaving the town it was along a coastal path again then into the woodland of the Dalmeny estate. It was another pleasant forest walk to Dalmeny House where we saw that the lawns in front were the fairways of a golf course. It was well maintained and the greens emerald green with all the recent rain. The path ran round the outside of the course which hugged the coastline.

DALMENY HOUSE

The home of the Earl of Rosebury, Dalmeny house is an unusual and striking Tudor Gothic mansion. Designed by William Wilkins, it was completed in 1817. It houses an outstanding collection of paintings, including works by Raeburn and Gainsborough, and Napoleonic memorabilia. Set in parkland, the landscape was designed in the early 19^th century.

The house and tearoom is open Sunday to Wednesday afternoons in July and August; entry is by guided tour only. See: www.dalmeny.co.uk.

       

The marked ‘Shore Walk’ was a mixture of coastal and woodland until where the River Almond joined the River Forth and a causeway was marked over the sands out to Cramond Island. It now turned right up the only hill of the day. It was a steady climb not too steep but unexpected. On the other side of the river Almond we could see the houses of Cramond. Above we could hear the planes that were taking off from nearby Edinburgh Airport.

When we reached the main road at Cramond Brig there were bus stops on both sides of the road outside a large steakhouse. We stood at the wrong one first of all thinking that we would be going to Edinburgh for a Falkirk or Linlithgow bus but when Moira check the information on ‘Traveline’ the itinerary it gave was to take a bus to Queensferry and from there to Linlithgow for another connection to Bo’ness. We crossed the busy road for the Queensferry bus on the other side. It was now raining heavily and we had just finished on time. Further down the road there was a couple of backpackers trying to thumb a lift but with no success and they gave up after about 20 minutes standing in the pouring rain. The bus was due at 3:35pm and that gave us a 20 minute wait. A few buses came along the road at that time and shortly after but they were all false alarms our bus finally arrived 15 minutes late. The driver didn’t know where to let us off in Queensferry for our connection to Linlithgow but a woman told us to get off at the police station. Even though the bus was behind time it was still dead slow and stop going round the houses in every village along the route and even stopping at a Tesco shopping centre to change drivers. Our connection at Queensferry was at 4:02pm and we were well past that time when we eventually got off at the police station. I checked the bus time on the table at the stop and found the next one wasn’t for nearly 2 hours but we had a stroke of luck. A woman waiting there told us that the 4:02pmm bus was late, it had passed on the other side of the road doing a loop round Queensferry before returning to go to Linlithgow and Bathgate. We only had to wait 5 minutes when it appeared. It was now a matter of linking up with the Bo’ness bus in Linlithgow and it was touch and go whether we would still make it. The driver seemed to be making good time trying to get back on schedule when we got stopped at traffic lights on a one way section under a railway bridge. The lights were jammed on red our way but the traffic came in intervals the other way. After 5 minutes of horn blowing the bus driver pulled out to pass the hesitant car drivers in front and was going to jump the lights when they suddenly changed to green, we were on our way again. When we reached the High St in Linlithgow the Bo’ness bus was waiting at the same stop and we jumped aboard. It was another tour around the houses in little villages but it was our last leg on a frustrating journey and the car was waiting at the other end. At last we were there and it was only a short walk to where the car was parked.

Moira drove us home. She took the road towards Falkirk and just after the junction to Grangemouth got on to the M9 motorway. It by-passed Falkirk and ran alongside Helix Park and the end of the Forth and Clyde Canal where the Kelpies were. We got a great view of these enormous sculptures from the car. After Falkirk it was on to the M876, the M80, M73, M74, M8 and home. The rain eased off as we travelled and surprisingly it was a lovely evening over Greenock and the Clyde when we arrived back.

JOHN MUIR WAY: DAY 5 FALKIRK to BO'NESS

Friday 23 May.

My birthday today, 73 years old, and we were off to do another leg of the 'John Muir Way’. We had decided to take the car to Falkirk rather than have the hassle of  changing buses. I got up before 6am, showered and made the breakfast which we had in bed. I put the TV on for the weather and the forecast said Scotland would be dry and sunny. Moira had her shower then made lunch; we were on the road at 7am. I forgot to take the camera but I had the iPad which I could use and Moira's Smart Phone had a good camera.

At this early hour the motorways were quiet. Moira took the new motorway which by-passes the Kingston Bridge on to the M73 and this joined the A80 to Stirling. We came off at the A803 into Falkirk but had to stop in the town to ask directions to Falkirk High Station. We weren't far away and in another 5 minutes drove into the car park at the station. We had to pay £2:50 for all day parking but decided it was worth it to avoid any hassle. It was 8:30am when we started off walking, it had only taken an hour to get to the 'start'; normally we would have just been on the bus from Port Glasgow to Glasgow at this time.

From the station it was a short walk through the leafy suburbs of Falkirk before turning into Callendar Park.

CALLENDAR PARK and HOUSE

The Park is a superb historic designed landscape with an arboretum, woodland, ornamental gardens, and family mausoleum. It also includes part of the Roman Antonine Wall, and is managed by the Falkirk Community Trust.

The main part of the house resembles a French Renaissance chateau and dates from the 19th century. It houses displays, a working 19th century kitchen, shop and tearoom. Open daily year-round, admission free. See: www.falkirkcommunitytrust.org.

The walk through the park was delightful and the ‘chateau’ was magnificently graced by a huge emerald green lawn. The paths through the woodland went round a boating lake and meandered among the trees and differently coloured rhododendron bushes in full bloom. When we left the park it was a bit of a climb that took us under the railway on a narrow parapet beneath a stone bridge then up to re-join the Union Canal. It was turning into a very nice day, it was a bit cool this early in the morning but at least the cold wind of the other day had gone. With no wind the waters of the canal was still and calm creating mirror-like reflections of the trees and bridges. There were a few narrow barges coming along towards us and we got a few good photographs using the iPhone. The first barge had some holiday makers all the way from Georgia, USA. At the bridge over the canal going into the village of Polmont we stopped and had a cup of coffee. The signpost there said: ‘Avon Aqueduct 3miles, Edinburgh 30 miles’

        

AVON AQUEDUCT

The Union Canal aqueduct was completed in 1822, built by engineer Hugh Baird to Thomas Telford's design for another aqueduct in Wales. At 250m long and 26m high, it is the longest and highest aqueduct in Scotland, and the second longest in Britain. It stands on 12 masonry arches and has a towpath along one side. The water is carried in a cast iron trough about 2m deep and 4m wide. See: www.scottish-places.info

        

On the way to the aqueduct we had exceptional views of the open country and caught a few glimpses of the River Forth. Also in the distance there was a multi-arched railway via-duct. The Avon Aqueduct when we reached it after 5km was very impressive and far below we could see the River Avon making its way to join the Forth at Grangemouth. Shortly after crossing the aqueduct the way turned from the canal to use the River Avon Heritage Trail. This dropped down from the towpath by a flight of stairs and a boardwalk into the woodland that lined the banks of the River Avon. Ahead were the arches of the railway via-duct we saw earlier from a distance. Although the river was flowing fast and creating rapids in places there were pools of still water. In these calm spots the via-duct was perfectly reflected giving an outstanding picture. The via-duct has 26 arches constructed with sandstone and has been the mainline rail route from Glasgow to Edinburgh since 1842. Once we passed under the via-duct we were into Linlithgow and crossed the A803 main road and Linlithgow Bridge site of a battle in 1526.

BATTLE of LINLITHGOW BRIDGE 1526                 James V was little more than a year old when his father died at Flodden in 1513.  The following 12 years Scotland witnessed the turmoil of the regency of Albany and the political infighting that left the kingdom at the mercy of the English and their followers north of the border. Those who held the king held the power and it was Archibald Douglas of the Red Douglases who aspired to be the king’s guardian and in effect, his jailor. Margaret the Queen dowager fought a constant political battle to free her son, raising support among the nobles for armed forays Two such rescue attempts ended at Linlithgow. The Earl of Arran attempted the first in January 1526. He raised 5000 men and mustered them at the Peel but was obliged to disperse when the Queens party led by Earl of Moray was delayed in arriving and the Douglases advanced in force from Edinburgh with the King in attendance. Arran fled but Moray arriving too late to stop the rout declared for the King and promptly swapped sides. Eight months later the Queen dowager persuaded John Earl of Lennox, Earl of Glencairn and Cardinal Beaton to support her cause. This time Lennox raised an army over 10,000 and marched on Edinburgh. By this time Archibald Douglas had won over the Earls of Arran and Angus who were sent out to delay the march. Much to his credit Arran arrayed his followers at the strategically important Linlithgow Bridge. He must only had a small force composed mainly of the local Hamilton family but Lennox seeing the defensive position had to rethink his plans Lennox looked to out flank and destroy Arran before Douglas and Moray could arrive from Edinburgh. Downstream proved impassable but up stream his scouts found a ford at Manuel Convent. Lennox forced the crossing and advanced on Arran’s flank. Arran saw the threat and arrayed his troops facing south along what is now Telford View. Lennox’s attack was across the Avon, over boggy ground and finally up hill, but he so nearly succeeded in dislodging Arran’s outnumbered men. However time ran out for Lennox as Douglas arrived with the much reluctant King. It is said the King dithered and made so many excuses that George Douglas, the King’s minder for that day declared ‘Before the enemy shall take thee from us, if thy body be torn to pieces , we shall have a part’ Douglas’s line of advance must have been along Mains Road from the West Port passed the Rugby club and they would have ploughed into the flank of the hard pressed rebels. Many were killed either on the ridge on in the valley along the river. Glencairn was captured and Lennox surrendered to the Laird Of Pardovan, but in a wonton act of rage, James Hamilton of Finnart murdered Lennox. The location of this murder is commemorated with a cairn that now stands on the entrance to the Kettlestoun estate. (Strangely enough it appears to be marked ‘1528’

The signs directed us across the main A803 by-passing the town and attractions of Linlithgow and is another place that will be visited by us in the future.

 

LINLITHGOW LOCH and PALACE

     

The impressive remains of this royal palace of the Stuart Kings are surrounded by parkland. Building stated in 1424 and was completed over a century later. It was torched by Government troops in 1745. The castle overlooks the loch, a special nature reserve. Formed thousands of years ago, the loch is important for a variety of wildfowl and aquatic plants. A path circuits the loch and historic Scotland rangers run events all year round. Entry is free for the castle. See: www.historicscotland.gsi.gov.uk/ranger

The street after the junction with the main road was through a housing estate with lots of side streets and lanes but no waymarks. We reached the bridge over the M9 motorway but the pavement disappeared and the road was busy. It didn’t look as if this was the right direction. We returned to the A803 junction again and checked the sign post there. It said straight as did our map. We were busy consulting the map and guide book when a woman stopped to assist. She didn’t know the ‘John Muir Way’ but told us if we crossed the motorway bridge there was a track on the other side that went over the hill to Bo’ness. We returned the same way and found if earlier we had continued a few metres further there was a sign telling us we were on track. The path heading up hill was on the other side of the bridge as the woman said and there was a bench. That was where we stopped and had our lunch.

This was the first reasonable climb we had encountered for a while started and was a steady incline through farmlands with what appeared to be privately owned wind turbines. They weren’t the usual huge types but these were about half the size probably owned by the farmer. Once at the top of the hill the countryside opened out with panoramic views of the Firth of Forth. Now going downhill we entered Kinneil Wood with lines of tall conifers. As we crossed over a burn the track came to a plaque for a cottage that was supposedly a house used by the Greenock engineer James Watt; there were only four walls remaining and no bigger than a shed.From the old ruined cottage we arrived at the statelier,

KINNEIL HOUSE

           

The lands of Kinneil Estate were originally granted by King Robert I (the ‘Bruce’) to Walter Fitzgilbert of Hamilton in1323. The grounds remained in the ownership of the Dukes of Hamilton until1922 when the former Bo’ness Town Council purchased the woodland area and surrounds of Kinneil House under the Public Parks Act, for the general public to have access to the woodland for walks and recreation.

Kinneil’s Heritage

A section of the Antonine Wall and a Roman fortlet dating from 142AD can be found on the estate. Named as a British World Heritage Site in 2008, these have been partially re-instated with the addition of interpretative signage. The Kinneil Museum is housed in the 17th Century stable block at the Duchess Anne Cottages in the Park, also displays detailed information about the Wall, and the history of the Estate and the surrounding area in general.

Kinneil Woods

The Estate contains a large area of coniferous woodland, mostly planted between 1929 and 1949. A number of woodland walks and wildlife ponds are situated in this area of the Estate where a wide range of wild birds and waterfowl can be seen and heard. A 10-year management plan for the Woodlands is in the process of being developed in partnership with Central Scotland Forest Trust (CSFT). This is intended to ensure the long-term future of the woods, while also improving woodland diversity and safety. To view and comment on the proposals, visit the CSFT websit

From Kinneil House we walked along the impressive driveway then it was down a hill to cross over the track of the Bo’ness and Kinneil railway. We followed the line along the shores of the Firth of Forth into Bo’ness which had an attractive skyline with two tall church spires.

         

BO’NESS and KINNEIL

March to October, steam driven and standard locomotives haul traditional carriages along the scenic, historic Operated by the Scottish Railway Preservation Society, the railway links Bo’ness and Manuel on the shores of the Firth of Forth. It was opened in the early 1980’s and extended from Kinneil to Manual in 2010. At Bo’ness there are refreshment room, souvenir shop, visitor information centre and museum. For fares and timetable, see: www.bkrailway.co.uk.

When we reached the edge of the Bo’ness town centre there was a bus stop and we had 15 minutes to wait for a bus back to Falkirk. It took nearly an hour going a loop round the petro-chemical complexes of Grangemouth. I had a street map of Falkirk and after getting off at the terminus I was able to work out a route to the station where the car was parked. It was only about a kilometre to Falkirk High and the car, we were on the way home at 3:30pm.