Day 34

Via de la Plata

Monday 30 April 2012

Day 34

 

Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia. 34km.

 

Today was an anticlimax after the wonderful walking of the previous sections. It promised well when we reached the village of Soutelo Verde after 3km on the road. Getting on to a farm track we began to gradually climb out of the valley to another small village, Tamicelas, where the serious ascent began. it was called Monte Requeixal, and it was a very steep continuous climb at first on narrow rocky paths but later the track broadened out and was smoother, but still going up. About half way up we had been walking for two hours and at a flat part we found a rock to have a break. Breakfast was provided at the pension this morning, but we just had our usual and took the two magdelane cookies and fruit juice they supplied for our refreshment now. While we were sitting other peregrinos went past, not bothering with a stop, and also mountain bikers who were reduced to pushing their bikes up this steep incline. Just before we got going again the rain came on spoiling what initial looked like being a nice day. The rest of the climb was now done wearing our ponchos and when we reached the road at the top the view was disappointing with heavy cloud over the hills and the valley below misty and hazy with the falling rain.

 

It was a short distance on tar to the village of Albergueria, the site of a former pilgrim hospital, and there was an albergue there. We had a look inside but the lady was cleaning, she appeared to be grumpy and not very welcoming to out 'Ola', so we sat outside on a bench for a rest and to stow away our rain gear, it had dried up again. From Albergueria it was on a good sandy path but still climbing up to the Cross on Monte Talarino. It was supposed to be only 3km but we could see the cross on the skyline that never seemed to get any nearer and more like 5km. Once at the cross, another erected for those who died on the Camino, our guide book promised excellent views on a clear day. Unfortunately it wasn't a clear day and we stopped to get into our ponchos again as the rain poured down.

 

From the cross it was a long descent into the valley on the other side. The first section of the path was completely flooded and we had to detour across a field to avoid it. From there it was hard going even though downhill with some steep and rough conditions to negotiate with our old legs. We could see the small town of Vilar de Barrio slightly up the hillside on the far side of the valley and it was another case of never seeming to get there. When we did make the valley bottom there was an annoying climb up the tarred road to the town.

Just before reaching the town square there was a supermarket where we got bread and a packet of soup for later, for now we found a bench in the square to have lunch. We watched other peregrinos arriving, some continuing along the route others making for the bar for their lunch. We saw Suzanna and Almont make for the bar.

 

We had 15 km to go to the finish for the day and my back was playing up, Moira had given me some painkillers and it took a few kilometres walking in agony before they took effect. The route to the next village of Padrosa was back to the monotonous long straight sandy road that we thought we had left on the Plata. It went on straight as a die ahead of us then when we saw some houses and thinking we had reached civilisation again it turned right and it was another couple of kilometres until we reached the village where we were looking forward to another stop for coffee. There had been more rain and the wind had risen before we stopped and we couldn't find decent shelter. We had to make do with benches on the village square. It took ages for the water to boil on the cooker with the wind but eventually we were refreshed and ready for the last 7km.

 

The day had been much of a slog up steep rough paths with no reward of a view, difficult and wet downhills and miserable weather, but this last section of the day made up for it all. We meandered through leafy walled lanes, up to a short ridge giving lovely views of the valley and the villages scattered through it. The lanes were lined with big old trees with crocked and gnarled trunks which would present a shadowy sinister spectre if strolling at sunset. This area was much more populated and the villages a lot livelier, with a lot of renovation and refurbishment of the old cottages and houses. After the village of Quintela, Cicerone said there was 2km to go but there was a sign saying 'Albergue 1km', what joy. It was a lovely place quite modern but a lot of pilgrims were already there and we had to make do with a top and bottom bunk unit, me on top. The Frenchman who snores and the other that doesn't close doors were there before us along with some new faces. Suzanna and Almont got in late, we had passed them about 5km before the finish of the day.

 

After securing our beds we headed for a well equipped kitchen and Moira made mushroom soup from the packet we bought at the supermarket. This we had with plenty of fresh bread and were feeling normal again, especially with the refreshing hot shower we had next. At 5:00 after siesta time we walked into the town, that extra kilometre, looking for a shop for some bread and milk for tomorrow, as the shops would be closed for the May Day holiday. As we have found in Spain they like to expand their public holidays and they obviously were having this afternoon off as well, it was like a ghost town. There was one place open, the cafe/bar advertised at the albergue, and here the woman was a bit more enterprising. We asked about the time for dinner and she indicated whenever we wanted it, there were some peregrinos already having their meal. When we came back later we were immediately ushered to a table, the menu was recited and it wasn't long before a lovely meal was in front of us. That's what you want after a hard thirty plus kilometres in the hills.