Via de la Plata
Tuesday 1 May 2012
Day 35
Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense. 20 km.
If the past few days have rated some of the best walks then today's must be the worst of the Via de la Plata. It was virtually all on the tar road through one village after the other, A Pousa, Salgueiros, Veirada, Pereiras, Castellana, San Ciprian das Vinas, and Seixalbo before reaching Ourense. All the communities were much the same obviously dormitory towns zto commute into the city of Ourense. There were only a few interesting highlights the reflections in the Rio Arnoya that we crossed leaving Xunqueira, the storks nest built high on the old factory chimney at Castellana and the lovely walled lane into Ourense when the camino did manage to leave the road. Other than that it was a miserable route and especially on the outskirts of the city there was an industrial area to go through followed by the usual line of car sales/showrooms that seem to occur on entering any big town or city.
We didn't rush away this morning as the plan was to stay at a hostal tonight in Ourense. Everyone had left while we were still at breakfast and it was after 8:00am by the time were on our way. We stopped outside the bar where we dined and got on line. It was a WiFi zone and we were given the password last night. I published my latest blog and Moira downloaded the newspaper, then we were off. When we reached Ourense we had to change our plan, there didn't appear to be any hostals or pension about in the city centre, but we saw arrows to the albergue so followed them instead. All along he route from Sevilla it has been difficult to find a shop never mind a supermarket in any of the villages but nearly all the villages this morning had a Spar or a small grocery store. Unfortunately being the May Day holiday not one of them was open. Coming into Ourense we did find a few shops open and managed to get bread and picked up a barbecued chicken for dinner. It was quite a distance up a long hill to the albergue but it was worth it, the dorms were nice and big with plenty of beds, we had no trouble getting bottom bunks even though all people who left this morning were already there. Later we moved to another room when we found that the Frenchman who snores was next to us, there was plenty of space in this another dorm as well.
Once we were showered Moira made soup in another well equipped kitchen. About 4:00 we went for a walk around Ourense. We tried to find the route out for tomorrow but got lost in a maze of narrow streets and lanes. Eventually we came across a large shopping mall and thought maybe that was where the locals went on a holiday. It was nearly empty as well, all the stores were closed, only restaurants doing business. We had an ice cream at MacDonald's. The balcony outside the mall overlooked the Rio Mino that flowed through the city, I got some nice photographs of the bridges. When we made our way back we found the Camino shell symbols in the pavement on Rua do Paseo, so we achieved one objective. This street led to the cathedral, San Martin, which was open. It was well worth the visit though a bit dimly lit. The columns and the arched roof were magnificent and we did spot the statue of the seated figure of Santiago with shell around the base that was mentioned in the Cicerone guide.
One thing we didn't achieve when out was to find any shops open, it must have only been only a half day the ones open this morning. Moira was looking for vegetables for a curry using the barbecued chicken she bought, instead we had roast chicken with rice savoured with some curry powder. It was delicious. The only faces missing as we had dinner were Suzanna and Almont, we had seen them in the cathedral this evening but they hadn't shown up at the albergue.
Tonight we weren't bothered by snoring but instead by a group of cyclist who arrived late then sat in the dining area talking until nearly midnight. I was wakened by them but pushed my ear plugs in tighter and was alright but Moira told me in the morning that she couldn't sleep for the noise and got up and gave them a piece of her mind. They got the message and it stopped.
Via de la Plata
Wednesday 2 May 2012
Day 36
Ourense to Cea. 21km
As we were coming into Ourense yesterday Moira remarked that the hills behind the city didn't look very big. I said that they were big enough if we have to go straight up to cross them. I didn't realise how prescient I was.
When we got up this morning we didn't bother being quiet and pussy foot around. The cyclists were having a lay in after their late night and we weren't bothered about disturbing them. When we left there was no problem finding the route after sussing it out yesterday afternoon. On the way we called in at the other big church in the centre, Santa Eufemia, it was very impressive on the outside with a large bell shaped tower and lovely carving on the stonework but inside it was plain with no interesting features. We just had a quick glance round then got on to following the route out of the city. We crossed over the Rio Mino by the old multi-arched bridge and through the outskirts to the N120. It was then along this busy highway for 2km to the village of Quintela where we took a minor road and met the hill I unfortunately predicted. The book said it was 1.5km long but it felt much more, maybe it was because it went nearly straight up all the way. It was a killer and Moira was back to her old ways of stopping every few minutes for a rest,even with the aid of her inhaler. I had to cajole and bully her to keep her moving and it was a relief for both of us when we reached Castro de Beira at the top. Someone had conveniently put a bench on the 'summit' and we took full advantage, along with a refreshing drink of cold spring water from a fountain close by.
From now on the poor route of yesterday and the earlier part today were things of the past as we picked up the narrow walled lanes and leafy by-ways of previous lovely sections. It made its way through wooded countryside and the noisy busy traffic was a distant memory. We were on the Camino that we had become used to again. There was the call of the cuckoo that we had been hearing all the way from Sevilla added now by the distinctive sound of the woodpecker, unseen but heard as he drilled his way into the bark of some tree. What we didn't like was the weather, what had started out alright changed to showers and it was on and off with our ponchos and rucksack covers all morning. The problem now was that the temperature was much higher and we were warm, especially in the ponchos and while still wearing fleeces. Eventually we took off our fleeces and it was pleasantly cool, such a difference from the freezing cold of a few days ago in the mountains and snow.
We only had one stop today other than the forced 'pit-stop' at the top of the 'mountain'. It was at the village of Reguengos where we had coffee from our prepared flask. When we finished at Cea it was raining heavily, continuing through the afternoon. The only others at the albergue were our friends, Suzanna and Almont, they said they found a hostal to stay last night in Ourense. Moira went out to find a shop or supermarket before they closed for siesta while I found us bunks and had a shower. When Moira came back she was loaded with bags of food, she said other peregrinos who were in the supermarket she had discovered looked open eyed at the a amount she had purchased, it was like a weekly shop to some of them.
There was a good kitchen at the hostel and we had soup and bread for dunking for lunch. We didn't go out in the afternoon, the weather was miserable, so we spent the time cataloging and updating our photographs of the Camino. Later when the rest had gone out for dinner we had ours, a salad with the rest of the chicken from yesterday followed by strawberries and yoghurt, a lot better than we would have got at the bar. The albergue was getting busy, a lot of cyclists again and some people starting their pilgrimage here, it was just 100km to go, the minimum requirement to get a certificate and atonement for your sins!!
We were in bed early, before the others returned from dinner in the bar. When people began coming upstairs to the dorm the lights switched on and off every minute and wakened me. I realised they were on a photo-electric switch and every time somebody used the stairs they came on. The problem was that the design of the place was open plan, so the dorm was lit up like Blackpool illuminations. This wasn't so bad as people were going to bed but when I got up in the middle of the night to go to the loo which was downstairs the lights came on, while in the toilet they went off and then on again as I climbed the stairs back to the dorm. In the morning most of the peregrinos were complaining, that and the snoring doesn't help in getting a good night's sleep.
Via de la Plata
Thursday 3 May 2012
Day 37
Cea to Castro Dozon. 14km
With the disturbance of the brilliant lighting system I didn't sleep very well and got up at 6:00am. I went to the kitchen and made myself a large cup of coffee, sitting quietly until Moira came down about half an hour later. We had breakfast and quickly packed up for an early start, 7:30am today. There are two routes out of Cea to Castro Dozon, the official way of about 14km, or the alternative through the town of Oseira which has a Cistercian monastery but is 20km. We chose the shorter option. Cicerone wasn't very clear about which way to leave Cea for either route but two young guys told us to follow them and came to a point where the waymark had arrows going right or left, take your pick.
It was a pleasant enough walk for the first hour, even though it was mainly on tar over minor roads. Then it began to rain, we didn't think at first it was going to come to anything but the sky turned completely grey and it came down in torrents. Now we were walking off-road through wooded countryside which would have been very pleasant in dry sunny conditions and the paths were running streams. Initially we tried to keep our feet dry by skipping around puddles but eventually they were soaking and we just waded through everything.
The plan had been to do about 28km today but with the horrible weather we decided to stop at the albergue in Castro Dozon. We followed the directions and arrows which led to a house that could have been the hostel but there was no sign or name plate, and it was closed anyway. We shelter under the porch and had the coffee from the flask with an apple. The Frenchman who snores with his partner arrived, and tried the door; as if we would be standing outside in the cold and rain if it had been open!! He attempted to phone the hospitalier but no reply, so we left our rucksacks outside and headed for the bar in town. On the way we met a local who informed us that where we had gone wasn't the albergue and redirected us. Up the hill again, collect our bags and make for the right place. It didn't look very inviting, a bit like three portacabins, one for the dorms, one for the toilets and showers and another for the kitchen. But it was cold and wet so any shelter would have been welcome.
After showering we had soup and dunking bread again for lunch and that warmed us up. As usual when you get stranded in these places early there is nothing to do and the rain didn't help. There was a break and the sun came out briefly mid afternoon but all we did was exchange one boring room for another, in the nearby bar; at least it was much warmer. When leaving we discovered there was a small supermarket behind the pub and instead of having to wait until 8:00pm to come back here for dinner we bought a pizza and some eggs, this did our meal back at the albergue.
When we returned, just in time the rain was starting again, the place had filled up. It was mainly cyclists, only three other walkers had appeared, the others must have soldiered on in these monsoon conditions. Once dinner was over and still nothing to do I put some music from the iPad on, nobody seemed to mind and it cheered up the evening. It was off to bed early, dreaming that maybe tomorrow we would rediscover 'sunny Spain', and slept very well for a change.
Via de la Plata
Friday 4 May 2012
Day 38
Castro Dozon to Silleda. 29km.
I slept quite well last night, it is strange how a rough and ready arrangement of portacabins can work well. When I got up to the loo about midnight a lot of the cyclists were still up but In the kitchen cabin well away from the dorms so their talking didn't disturb anyone. Also it was very easy to slip out of the dorm quietly and over the decked area to the toilets. The only problem was that it was cold and wet, the rain still pouring down, the set-up was more congenial to hot summer conditions.
We were also able to move out of the dorm and over to the kitchen in the morning without disturbing the still sleeping bikers. We had breakfast and packed our bags there and away before seeing anyone except the French couple of peregrinos. The rain was off when we began but the sky was still dark and I didn't hold out much hope for a dry day. We thought about sticking to the N525 all the way and have it dry underfoot but it was a busy road and our shoes were still soaking from yesterday anyway, so we followed the yellow arrows.
It was good that we did keep to the actual trail because it turned out to be a fine walk. It was on some minor roads and lanes through sleepy hamlets and on gravel tracks along walled lanes. The profile was up and down, meaning that the route had drained fairly well and we didn't have a lot of puddles and streams of water to wade through like yesterday. We had mild and dry conditions for the first hour but then the rain started, it didn't seem as heavy today but it was continuous for two hours. What was peculiar was that ahead we could see bright sky and obvious dry weather but it was always out of reach and didn't get any nearer. I concluded that the clouds were dropping all their rain on us and those a few kilometre in front were enjoying a lovely sunny day.
At the little town of Botos de Abaixxo we missed the turning and went straight on for about half a kilometre before somebody told us we had gone wrong and redirected us. When we reached the turning the French couple who we had overtaken near the start had caught up, it was frustrating. This was the place we intended to make for yesterday but for the rain, there was supposed to be a albergue at the railway station. We saw the railway line and the station but no sign indicating a hostel. From here it was 6km to the next fair sized town of Laxe, we had enjoyed a short spell of dry walking but now the rain came in full force again.
When we reached Laxe the route went past the albergue, it didn't open until 1:00pm, another ninety minutes, it would have been very annoying if we had planned to stop here. Instead we were heading for the next town of Silleda but first we headed for the first bar to get out of the rain. It was called 'Ma Jose' and had been advertising with fliers posted all along the route. The huge log fire burning in the corner was a welcoming sight, two cyclists were already in front of it drying off but kindly made room for us. Once out of our ponchos and rucksacks with sat in the warmth with hot 'cafe con leche grande' and lovely ham bocadillos.
It was soon time to brave the elements again but it was a pleasant surprise to find the rain had gone off. I kept my poncho on, I've become superstitious in that when I take it off the rain soon begins. The route now more or less followed the N525, some parts close to it through shabby back yards of workshops, others in detours through hilly and nicely wooded countryside. Just before coming to the highway again we passed far below between the columns of the railway viaduct over the Rio Deza before using a more ancient fording of the river. This was a beautiful 10th century bridge, Ponte Taboada, and a footpath paved Roman style with huge boulders that led up the hill to the village of Taboada. Here we had a rest, my back was sore as usual in reaction to over 20km. There was only 3.5km to according to the book, but it was confusing. We could take the busy road or follow the arrows and the scenic route which was 1.5km longer. We went scenic and it turned out to be 1.5 longer than the 3.5, so it was 5km, and the rain started, and it was through what could only be described as a swamp. I was not amused and did not appreciate what would have been a delightful finish to the section on a dry warm sunny day.
Eventually we got to Silleda that we had seen from the road before taking our detour through the woods. It was a large place and the arrows led us to the centre. We were making for a private albergue that we picked up a card for last night. We got directions from a few locals and it turned out to be rooms above a bar but it also gave the use of a kitchen. It was a double room we got not a dorm,for only E20. It wasn't en suite but the toilet shower was opposite our room, and after we were cleaned up I made coffee in the kitchen. I gave my shoes that were covered in mud a scrub and a wash in a sink out on the veranda. I left them out to dry but it didn't look promising, the atmosphere was very damp and humid with all the rain.
We had dinner in the bar downstairs at 7:00pm and what a feed it was. We started with an enormous tureen of home made vegetable soup, Scottish style, we both had two big plates full and there was still half left. Next the man appeared with a huge platter of salad to go with our large pork fillets and chips. There was a sweet, a bottle of wine and coffee included for just E10 each. After that we were full, this walk was supposed to keep our weight in check, the way we've been eating a diet may be required when we finish.
When back in the room it was off to bed where we lay and listened to music on the iPad before getting to sleep. It was another good night's rest with no snoring or lights going on and off to disturb us.
Via de la Plata
Saturday 5 May 2012
Day 39
Silleda to Ponte Ulla. 20km.
It was another case today of a really beautiful and enjoyable trail if the weather had been dry and sunny. It wasn't as bad as some days that we have had recently, none of the showers were particularly heavy or prolonged, it was just the they were so frequent. Every time we were forced to put on our ponchos the rain would stop after a few minutes. Off they would come only for the rain to begin a little later, it was like that all through our walk. Again we were frustrated trying to work out where the clouds were moving from and to, we could see blue sky in most directions but not over us, we usually had a dark cloud overhead.
It was 8:45am when we set off this morning, our target was Ponte Ulla only 20km away and the book said that there were plenty of rooms at bars for accomodation rather than the town with an albergue that was 5km further on. So it was going to be an easy stroll for this section. Our shoes hadn't dried overnight so although we had dry socks to wear they soon got wet from the shoes.
Getting out of Silleda turned out to be very simple, the main street became the N525 which we followed for a couple of kilometres. We thought about staying on the road but when the arrows led into the countryside that was the choice our feet being wet already. Again the track just ran close to the highway at first, but soon moved away through farmland and nice wooded areas. It was a fine day at first with patches of blue sky for a change but as we approached Bandeira the rain started. After donning our ponchos I looked for a bar or somewhere to go for shelter. We ended up under the overhang of a car workshop, out of the rain we had an apple and a drink of water until the sky cleared again. While we were there an Austrian guy who stayed at the same rooms last night came past, he had left before us this morning. He was either very slow or had gone somewhere for breakfast. We overtook him later, he is slow.
The route was undulating, with some stiff climbs followed by knee jarring steep downhills. Now in the forested areas there were lots of eucalyptus trees standing tall straight and majestic, reminding us of our time in Australia. Coming to the small village of Dornelas it had been raining and our ponchos were still on. There was a climb to the hamlet and the sun came, we were very hot. It was time for a rest to cool off and sat on a wall at the old 12th century Romanesque church. No sooner had we settled but the rain came on again, instead of the pleasant church setting we retreated to a dismal bus shelter for a drink from the flask. It's starting to get annoying as the sky turned blue again as we sat there.
It was more on and off rain, far away blue skies but at least no wind as we made our way up hill and down dale through more farmland and woods with plenty of chirping birds seemingly perfectly happy with this weather. On reaching the village of Seixo we found the bar that Cicerone mentioned and it was open. It was dry and warm, there was coffee and bocadillos, we sat there for half an hour. The Austrian guy eventually got there as well, then a couple we hadn't seen for a few days, he was also Austrian but his girl friend looked oriental. I had given this pair some sugar at an albergue, from the supply I pick up at cafes and bars that they give with coffee, and he remembered. The French couple who stopped at Laxe yesterday poked their noses in the door but didn't stay, if they were heading for the next albergue at Outeiro they still had 9km to go, and having already covered 29km it was along stint for them. Moira reckoned that they had probably stuck to the road which was much shorter.
The last 4km for us was all downhill and very steep as the road dropped down to cross the Rio Ulla. All the way down we got magnificent views of the enormous new railway viaduct that connects the hills on either side of the river, this viaduct was designed to mimic the columns and arch of the smaller Roman bridge which runs parallel and behind the newer version. Even though it was again pouring with rain it was a must to stop and get some photographs of this extraordinary sight. Where we crossed the river was a bit further on by another old bridge which was much superior in appearance to the modern motorway version next to it. On the other side of the Rio Ulla there was a bar/restaurant/pension, Moira went in, yes there were rooms available, E24 for a double. We stopped there.
The room was alright, it was en suite and there was an electric heater. We got out of our wet shoes and socks, washed our dirty clothes then draped them over a chair in front of the heater to dry. After showering I made tea, Moira managed to get Tetley tea bags at the supermarket in Silleda, on the little cooker. We had more to eat to keep us going until dinner at 7:00pm. It was another enormous tureen of soup to start, this time we finished it, then it was some nice grilled fish for a change. While we were eating in the bar I could hear the TV, it was football and I only discovered when we came through to pay, that it was the FA Cup final that was on. There was only about ten minutes left to play and Chelsea were 2-1 up against
Liverpool. I watched the remainder and that was how it finished, we could have sat in the bar for our meal and seen most of the game.
When we got to bed the sky above the hills that we could see from our window was completely blue, not a cloud in sight. Does this promise a sunny bright day for our entrance into Santiago tomorrow. I certainly hope so.
Via de la Plata
Sunday 6 May 2012
Day 40
Ponte Ulla to Santiago. 20km
It had been raining through the night and there were still a few spots dropping when we left at about 8:00am for the final stage of our journey to Santiago. We had our ponchos on but had packed away our tights and didn't require anything on our hands, we were at the lowest altitude of the Camino and it was feeling quite mild. Last night Moira had gone to the supermarket for bread and milk, and discovered a great view point of the viaduct and Roman bridge from there, so we took a slight detour for some pictures. It was a good spot and the ancient stone structure could be seen like a reflection of the viaduct in front.
When we left Ponte Ulla the traffic sign said, 'Santiago 20km'. The route then took a very steep Roman style boulder paved path to climb up from the river. When we rejoined the N525 about 5 minutes later the traffic sign now said, 'Santiago 17km', that was the fastest 3km we've ever walked. The arrows soon took us away from the road to a good wide path that continued to climb through the trees. When we reached the top of the hill it was feeling very warm and the clouds had broken, it looked like being a nice day after all. There were still some wispy misty clouds hanging low down in the valley over the river and village, it made a lovely vista as the track made its way now over the ridge of the hill overlooking the valley.
Today's walk was similar to the previous two days, nice paths through farmland and forests of tall eucalyptus trees. The difference now was that we had fine sunny weather and that cheered us up, putting a spring in our steps, and not burdened with our ponchos. We had our first stop near a hill, Pico Sacro, for an apple and water. Cicerone suggest a detour to the top of the hill to visit a small church, Ermito de San Sebastian, we didn't take up the offer. The profile was undulating after that and still more eucalyptus trees, all standing very tall and straight. The area was now becoming more and more populated as we got closer to Santiago, and richer with some big fancy expensive looking villas.
At the town of Susana we had our coffee from the flask in a bus shelter, not due to rain, it was still sunny, but because it had a seat. It was now only 8.5km to go and we planned to have lunch at the Capilla de Santa Lucia, in another hour or 4km, that Cicerone recommended as a quiet sheltered spot for a final break and rest. It was anything but quiet there, a festival or fiesta was taking place. There were crowds of people and cars, food stalls and bars had been set up, while an open air service was taking place in front of the church. Also causing a great deal of noise was the banging of exploding shells and the crackle of continuous gun fire from the crest of the hill on the other side of the valley. We had been hearing these explosions all morning, now much louder, obviously something to do with these celebrations. We found a spot on a wall above a large stream where we got water to boil on the cooker for tea. We received some strange looks from those attending the service as we sat with our mugs of tea and sandwiches. While we were sitting on the wall a young lad had climb up to the top of the bell tower for some reason. As we packed up to leave he began to vigorously ring the bells, this signalled the arrival of a procession and the music of a band. They marched along the road and into the church, all the women and girls dressed in traditional costumes. The band, which was unusual by playing what sounded more like 'trad jazz' than anything Spanish, didn't enter the church but stopped playing then went off for a smoke instead. We continued for the last 4km to Santiago.
It was another climb for about a kilometre along a lane enclosed in a wooden frame. It was all open at this time but vines were growing up the sides and in summer these will grow over the top and create a wonderful shaded avenue. On the crest of the hill we caught our first glimpse of the towers and spires of Santiago cathedral but they disappeared as we dropped down to go through the suburbs of the city. After 1000km of, on the whole, excellent route marking and signs Santiago has nothing, the yellow arrows are non-existent and not shell sign to be seen. They don't even have a signpost directing people to the cathedral, we had to ask the way and a kind local practically took us by the hand to the magnificent cathedral.
Now we recognised our surroundings we started to look for someplace to stay. We went to a few pensions and hostals but the cheapest we found was E36 and it was a dump, obviously we have been spoilt with cheaper accommodation out in the rural areas. We settled for one at E39, it wasn't bad and it was ensuite. After a shower we went in search of the peregrino office where we presented our fully stamped credentials and obtained our Compostela. Before searching for place to eat we had a walk round the cathedral, it is as magnificent inside as outside with the altar front just a mass of golden metalwork and carvings. As there was a service beginning we left, the one tomorrow for the peregrinos will be enough.
The prices for food and drink was as bad as accomodation, we went into a bar and had a glass of 'vino tinto', red wine, it was double the price we had been paying. We found a small restaurant where we had a tuna salad between us then hamburger and chips. With a bottle of wine this came to E27, our most expensive meal yet!!
We got back to the room and into bed early, we've booked to stay here another night so there is plenty of time for sightseeing tomorrow.
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