Day 33

Via de la Plata

Sunday 29 April 2012

Day 33

 

A Gudina to Laza. 34km.

 

When we left this morning the town was shrouded in mist. Also Cicerone said that there was quite a lot of asphalt but on a small narrow road that has almost no traffic and climbs high up over the area known as the Sierra Seca. So leaving A Gudina we were climbing a tarred road and could see virtually nothing. It didn't hold any prospects of a great walk. It didn't help when the waymarks took us in detours from the road through such villages as Venda de Teresa and Venda de Capela which were poorly populated and many of the houses in ruins. These villages formerly housed employees of the railway,which the route follows, when building of the line took place in the 1950's, but now most of the population has emigrated in search of work. In Capela there was a row of abandoned buildings that housed former railway employees. The walls were constructed with some substantial large bricks and looked sturdy and one or two people were busy with refurbishing them.

 

As we approached the next little village, Venda do Bolano, the mist began to lift and down in the valley to our right was the reservoir, Embalse das Portas. The water levels were quite low but it did give us the first bit of interest along the route. After that everything just got better and better. From Bolano we left the road and on to wide track that our guide calls a 'camino de tierra' or gravel road. It climbed up and this was a walk of splendour as we levelled out to go along a ridge. The views were outstanding with deep valleys on either side with more rolling hills behind. At the end of the ridge there was along steep drop to the village of Campobecerros, that we could see for some time, nestled in a hollow far below. When we eventually reached this delightful little community we found a seat outside the church and graveyard to have our lunch. As we were packing up to get going again Suzanna and Almont came along, they had stayed at the albergue in A Gudina last night, they said to was alright. They stopped at the village bar for lunch and we were ahead of them again.

 

We had to start climbing once more, then dropped down the other side to another village, Portacambo. It was up again after that to a large wooden cross erected in memory of pilgrims who had died whilst heading for Santiago. From this point we began to descend gradually along the contours of the hillside. To our right all the way down there was this very deep v-shaped valley with a river flowing far below. It was the most exceptional of scenes, the hills towering above the shear sides and then rolling into the distance where could be seen the mountains of our previous walks topped with snow. The weather today had been extremes, first there was the early morning mist, this cleared to give us blue skies and sunshine, we even took off our tights it was so warm, now coming down the contour path we got hail stones followed by heavy rain. When we dropped from the hillside to the village of As Eiras the sun was shining again, and we sat on a bench outside the church where I made coffee on the cooker. While we were enjoying our break Suzanna and Almont came past again, they were walking quite briskly, we could let them go as we weren't making for the albergue tonight.

 

The 'last lap' for the day was a 6km stretch on the road to Laza. It was all a gradual downhill and very easy going after a long hard day. We were staying at a pension tonight, Blanco Conde, it was formerly a restaurant but that part was closed and they had a few rooms. It turned out to be very nice, it was a sort of a flat with three double bedrooms around a kitchen area. It cost E35 but that included breakfast and it did have cooking facilities so we didn't have to dine at the pub.

 

The three and a half day's walking from Puebla de Sanabria have been some of the best we have ever done. The area can be honestly described as one of 'outstanding natural beauty'. For a good walk you need hills, the physical challenge of climbing not only gives you the satisfaction of gaining fitness and achievement but also takes you to heights not normally accessible and rewards with views and panoramas available to the few willing to make the effort.

Day 32

Via de la Plata

Saturday 28 April 2012

Day 32

 

Lubian to A Gudina. 26km

 

Each day just gets better, this was yet another contender for the best section. It was a climb again first thing to our second 'Spanish Munro', at 1262m the Portela da Canda was 67m lower than yesterday's ascent but much tougher. There were no easy sections of tarred road on this one, rough mountain track all the way with some places having us jumping and dancing from one stone or dry piece of grass to another as the recent rains turned the track into running stream. From Lubian we initially dropped into the valley and up to a beautiful little church, Santuario de la Virgen de la Tuiza, then it was a continuous climb to the pass. There had been more snow on the tops overnight which gave a wintery backdrop and there was even a smattering of white on the path. Surprisingly the weather was mild, there was no wind again, the sky was virtually cloudless and the effort to get to the top was making us sweat.

 

When we were about half way up we heard voices behind. We assumed that it was maybe other peregrinos who though they were up before us had gone to the bar for breakfast. Instead it was a group of walkers with just daypacks who we thought said they were making for Santiago. We guessed it was an organised tour and they had their bags transported. Later still more came along and one girl spoke English, they were from Ourense and had come by coach to

Lubian this morning and would be picked up later at A Gudina where we were heading. They were going to do it in stages like this over the coming weekends. Still more overtook us as we got closer to the pass and when we reached the Portela da Canda they were all congregated for a break. I thought they would be having a drink of water before continuing and would be jealous when they saw us having a coffee from our flask. No way! They were well organised and had a car there with supplies. A table had been prepared awaiting their arrival that was loaded with food and drink, we were invited to join them. There was hot coffee in large vacuum flasks, wine and bottled water, on the food side they had bread, cheese, jamon, salami, dry sausage, donuts, apples, oranges and bananas. They considered us genuine poor who needed feeding and kept forcing more and more food on us, I was absolutely full. Who said there was no such thing as a free lunch? It turned out now that they were also repainting the arrows from yellow spray canisters as they walked along. This meant that as we made our way down from the pass we had no problem with finding our way, the arrows were all freshly painted for us.

 

Over the pass we left Castilla y Leon and entered Galicia, the climate also seemed to change, it got milder and off came the ponchos and socks from our hands. It looked much greener and the snow had disappeared from the tops which were not so high. The rough rocky path of the ascent now became a relatively smooth wide track and not nearly as steep, allowing us a comfortable easy descent to the villages of A Canda and Vilavella, the later had an albergue in its old railway station. We had considered continuing here yesterday afternoon but now were glad we had stayed at Lubian, although only 12km it had been hard and taken almost three hours. We stopped for a break and had a drink of cool spring water from the fountain in the square.

 

It maintained its easy descent though the path was wet and flooded in places with the recent heavy rains, until the village of O Pereiro where we had a break for coffee. Then we began to climb again over moorland thick with heathers and spotted with pretty wild primroses. Every time we thought we were coming to the crest of the hill the path would take a turn and another hill would appear, it seemed to go on for ever. Eventually we came to a minor road and entered a very posh village, O Canizo, with nearly all the old houses converted into luxury mansions. It was now supposed to be only 3km to our overnight stop of A Gudina but when we reached the town sign on the main road it felt like another 3km before we made the town centre.

 

We didn't fancy another afternoon and evening with all these people who had caught with us yesterday. So instead of making for the albergue we got a room at the first hostal we came to. It was La Madrilena where we got a double room in this very clean small hotel, it only cost E30. We lay on the bed after showering and relaxed until dinner, we had got into our accommodation in time as the rain began. I watched some football and golf on the TV and Moira was able to read today's newspaper which she downloaded; they had WiFi.

 

We seem to be adapting to the Spanish eating times and had dinner in the bar at 8:00pm. It wasn't bad but the main course was peculiar, on the menu it was 'jamon asado' which we translated as roast ham. What we got was lots of thin slices of pork and two small potatoes, the Spanish don't go in for vegetables much either. What we had was fine as we weren't that hungry, after our large impromptu meal on the trail this morning. We got to bed early, it is a long walk tomorrow.

Day 31

Via de la Plata

Friday 27 April 2012

Day 31

 

Requejo de Sanabria to Lubian. 21km.

 

Today's section though short was the latest contender as the best of the Camino. It was a route not to be rushed but savoured for its exquisite mountain scenery and outstanding walking. It was nearly 8:00am when we left and the conditions were almost perfect, there wasn't a breath of wind and even the wind turbines on the mountain ridge above were stationary. We wore our ponchos for warmth but with the effort of the initial climb we were soon beginning to sweat.

 

Cicerone said that if there had been lots of rain not to take the path marked 'canada' which was a shady route on an old track leading up the valley but rather instead take the road. With rain the track would be very wet and boggy underfoot, also there would be streams to wade across. The wet or muddy track didn't discourage us but wading over streams put us off, so it was along the road to start. There were two roads, the motorway and the old road,the N525, which has replaced the N630 as the one the Camino follows. The N525 was outside the albergue and we were on the route straight away. As we headed up towards the pass, I was a little annoyed as the other track was plainly visible on the hillside, it was a wide track and looked well drained and dry. Fortunately we were only on the N525 for about 3km, then the yellow arrows directed us on to an older road. This was a lot pleasanter as it made its way up the valley and twisted beneath the pillars supporting the motorway. The other two roads made use of a tunnel through the hill while our track now crumbling from snow and ice erosion kept going up and up to the Portillo de Padornelo at 1329m. The views were magnificent, torrents of water from the recent rain cascading down the hillside and the tops white with large patches of snow. When we reached the top of the pass we found a rock and settled down for a coffee from the flask and an apple. What a difference there was in the weather from the

last two days, even at this altitude, higher than Ben Nevis, it felt relatively mild, and we were able to sit calmly to absorb the unbelievable panorama.

 

Coming down from the pass it was only a short distance on the road until we came to the village of Pandornelo. It wasn't much of a place with lots of decrepit and falling down old houses but it seemed to think a lot of itself by writing in large letters the village name on the hillside. After the village we left the road and it was a delightful route down on a narrow rocky track, a real mountain trail, wet and running water to negotiate but a route to take slowly not only for safety but to appreciate the surroundings and 'to smell the roses'. The next village, Aciberos, was a complete contrast to Pandornelo. Here almost all the houses had been given a makeover and refurbished, many looking very desirable. Cicerone said that it had only twelve inhabitants in winter but in the summer months it is much more populated with people coming for the cooler mountain air. The final 4km to Lubian were more enjoyable mountain trekking and it was really a pity when it had to finish when we arrived at the albergue.

 

We were first at the hostel and luckily the cleaning lady had just finished her chores and was about to leave as we arrived, so there was no hunting for the key. She was able to stamp our credentials and take the fee of only E3 each. As we were first in we got a choice of all the bunks and selected two bottom ones next to the door to the loo. After dumping our bags we had a walk in search of a shop and surprisingly discovered a small supermarket where we got something for dinner. When we got back more people had arrived, some that we had left behind days ago, they had all done a long one today, all the way from Puebla. For so odd reason there were two double bunks in the kitchen and strangely these were in demand and taken up quickly. Hopefully the reason is that these people want to get away sharply in the morning, if not I'm not worried about disturbing them when I come down to make our coffee and breakfast.

 

After we had lunch the place was getting busy and noisy so we went for a walk. Before going I had words with a character who ever time he came into the kitchen left the door open and there was a cold draught, I asked him if he was 'born in a field', a Scottish expression; he probably didn't understand being French, but he got the message. There was a bar on the main road and we went in for a drink, it was warm and quiet. Suzanna and Almont were already there, they had arrived a long time after us today and had also taken it casually to appreciate the surroundings. We spent an hour there in the peaceful atmosphere and passed the time with a game of cards, I won for change.

 

All the other peregrinos went out to the bar for dinner in the evening, while Moira made a lovely pasta in the kitchen. It was wonderfully peaceful on our own and we decided to turn in early. I put in ear plugs and didn't hear a thing as I dropped off to sleep. When I got up to the loo, a few hours later, all the others were back and tucked up in bed, even the snoring was only a gentle hum with the plugs in my ears.

 

Day 30

Via de la Plata

Thursday 26 April 2012

Day 30

 

Palacios de Sanabria to Requejo de Sanabria 25km.

 

Now there was plenty of food it was back to a normal breakfast of cereal, yoghurt, bread and jam washed down with coffee. There was no problem preparing it In the room, nobody complained anyway. We were off at 7:30am and it was raining, but it only lasted a few minutes and it turned out quite a nice day. There was hardly any wind and although it was overcast and later resulted in a few short showers it was generally good walking weather.

 

The route led us through nice wooded lanes to the villages of Remesal and Otero de Sanabria before climbing up to a moorland landscape with wild shrubs and an abundance of heather. In the distance we could see the mountains we have to cross tomorrow, all with a brushing of snow on top. I think it will be cold up there and it's fortunate that we bought the tights to keep our legs warm. At the small village of Triufe we found another sheltered church porch to stop for our morning coffee, some chocolate biscuits and an apple. From there we dropped down to the town of Puebla de Sanabria, the old historic part with its castle and 12th century church of Santa Maria del Azoque perched on the hill high above.

 

We crossed over the Rio Tera by a lovely old arched bridge, the waters were still and the reflections of the trees along the banks stunning. There was then a climb by a zig zag stairway all the way up to below the castle ramparts and into the old town. At the top we met Suzanna and Almont, they were searching for the route markers.i asked if they had been round the old town and they said yes. I was surprised as we hadn't seen them pass us, maybe they were using the bus again. The castle and the church were quite outstanding but there didn't seem to be any means of viewing the interiors; I just had to be satisfied with lots of photographs of the outsides.

 

After about a hour wandering about we found the route markers and got on our way to the overnight stop at Requejo. It took us along the road and the two women were just behind us they must have got lost and gone the long way round. From the road the Camino followed a path along the banks of the Rio Tera. It was a delightful walk and the reflections all along the river were outstanding. We stopped after a short way to make coffee on the cooker and also to allow the two women to overtake us. They didn't appear, then Moira spotted them making their way on the road, it was a much shorter route but missed out on a nice riverside trip. Unfortunately we had to come away from the river a few kilometres further on, a local warned us that the path was flooded and impassable. We were only on the road for a short while and we picked up the waymarks again when it crossed to the other side away from the river which was much higher and drier. Here it was another enjoyable journey this time through woodland to the village of Terroso. There we had a five minute break for my back which was sore to recover before the final 3km to the albergue, Casa Cervino, in Requejo.

 

This was another '5 Star' albergue, there was sheets and duvets on the bunks, they issued towels, free internet and WiFi, and most importantly a kitchen. Moira had bought chicken at a supermarket in Puebla and we were having a curry tonight. In the spacious dorm the only others there were Suzanna and Almont, we seemed to have found a slot where there aren't any people walking, or maybe they've given up due to the miserable weather.

 

We went for a stroll around Requejo later after having a lovely refreshing hot shower. There wasn't anything to see, there seemed to be only a few houses scattered on either side of the main road, a couple of bars and the ubiquitous church. We did strangely enough find a small alimentaciob or grocery store where there were strawberries, these went very well as a dessert to follow the curry we had for dinner.

 

Injuries

While the majority of people on the Camino have problems with their feet, and initially i did have a couple of blisters due to my new shoes, it is my hands that are bothering me. Over the first weeks when it was sunny I got the backs of my hands sunburned. They began to peel and then came the freezing conditions. At times I lost all feeling in them they were so cold and sores developed where they had been burned. Also the backs of all my fingers came out in red welts, like chillblanes we used to get on our feet as children in Scotland before central heating. It has helped wearing two pairs of socks on my hands with the insulating plastic bag between ut they can be quite painful and irritating at times.

Day 28 and Day 29

Via de la Plata

Tuesday 24 April 2012

Day 28

 

Santa Croya de Tera to Rionegro del Puente. 28km

 

This was another wonderful day's walking through some of the best scenery we've encountered so far. Gone were the hills of yesterday but although relatively flat the landscape changed in character from one section to the next. From Santa Croya we went through large plantations of poplar trees. We had first noticed these trees when Cicerone pointed them out as we entered Tabara and yesterday there were small areas in the valleys where they grew tall and slender in neat long rows. Today at the start it was continuous fields of these lovely trees at different stages of development. There was no information on the use of the wood and there was no sign of tree felling or of sawmills.

 

The next stage was the Rio Tera, and on crossing a bridge the waters below we're as calm as a mill pond resulting in mirror like reflections of the tall poplars along the banks. Moira spotted a wild boar with his family among the trees and later going along a road they ran across to a field on the other side. The two large adults were followed by a string of little piglets. The route followed the river through to trees to the villages of Calzadilla de Tera and Olleros de Tera then going to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Agavanzal. This was a church on its own in the fields above the river. It had a small building alongside with porch and benches where we had our first stop for coffee. The wind had picked up and was cold, this porch offered shelter from it, and when the sun rose above the bell tower and shone directly on us, it was like central heating being turned on. The church itself was locked but the inside could be seen through a small grating on the door, it was quite beautiful and disappointing that we couldn't get inside. There was a slot in the door for 'donativo' and we contributed especially for the use of the porch.

 

After our break the track did do some climbing, but it was gradual and took us up to the Embalse de Nuestra Señora de Agavanzal, a large reservoir created by damming the waters of the Rio Tera. We crossed the dam wall where the waters fed a power station and along a tarred footpath all the way up the other side of this stunning manmade lake. When reaching the village of Villar de Farfon we found another sheltered porch on the side of the church of San Pedro where the cooker came out again for a brew up.

 

From this last village before our final stop for the night at Rionegro was 6km of trekking on a narrow path through an area very similar to the South African bushveldt. With the small trees and bushes scattered through savannah type grasslands one expected to see at any minute giraffes or zebra but then a last of the cold wind was a vivid reminder that this was not Africa.

 

When we started this morning it was calm and windless rewarding us with the fine reflections in the river. But as the sun rose the wind came again and it was cold. Later it turned out better as the sun got warmer but not enough to remove our fleeces. The worrying thing is that looking at the mountains in the distance there is a large covering of snow on top. In about three days time we have to climb to 1300m, it will be cold but hopefully the snow level is above that.

 

The albergue in Rionegro was easy to find, it was facing us as we entered the village. Suzanna and Almont who past us when we were having a coffee break were settled in but there was plenty of room and we got bottom bunks. The only others there were a German couple who we met for the first time last night. We hadn't seen them on the trail today and don't know how they arrived before us, maybe there's a bus service. The hostel was very modern and one of the more luxurious. It had a very good kitchen but unfortunately there wasn't a shop in the village where we could buy food to cook. It was going to be the bar again tonight.

At 8:00 pm we walked the short distance to the Central Bar which had a flier in the albergue advertising meals but there was only one customer there drinking and no sign of a restaurant. We went to the Bar Palacios opposite the ajuntamiento (town hall) instead. Our two women fellow pilgrims and the other couple from the albergue were there and had already finished their dinner. We started with soup, which came in a huge tureen, we had about three platefuls each with plenty of bread. Not sure what we ordered next turned out to be the local ham, two fried eggs and chips. Along with a sweet and a bottle of wine it wasn't bad for E10 each. While eating the TV was on with football, the Champions League semi final, but it was all the armchair pundits for half an hour knowledgeably predicting the outcome,as on BBC, but in Spanish. I wasn't sure which semi final match it was, and only when the teams came out did I discover it was the Barcelona Chelsea second leg game. I don't know the result as we went back to get to bed after about 20 minutes play, but it didn't look very promising for Chelsea.

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 25 April 2012

Day 29

 

Rionegro del Puente to Palacios de Sanabria. 28 km

 

I was wakened about 5:00am by what I thought was snoring at first, then realised that it was the wind blowing. When we got up later and looked out, if the weather was like that in Scotland we would decide it was a day for staying in with the central heating turned up. The sky was slate grey, the wind was gusting strongly, there was rain and it looked extremely cold. We put on nearly all our clothes, I had three pairs of shorts, a t-shirt and two golf tops, while on my hands I wore two pairs of socks with a plastic bag between for insulation. My rucksack was very light now, there were no clothes in it, I had them all on and there was no food left either. Moira was similarly kitted out. I think we would have stayed on at Rionegro if we hadn't had accommodation booked at Palacios. The woman,at Casa Anita in Santa Croya the other day, had recommended a pension there and made the booking for us. The only worry was that we didn't have an address, just to ask for Teresa when we got there, everyone knew her. We were a bit dubious but Suzanna said they were also going there and as Palacios was a very small place so there shouldn't be a problem. Famous last words!

 

We set out a bit later than normal, 7:45am, as we wanted to reach the first town of Mombuey, 8.5km away, some time after 9:00am when the shops should be open and we could restock with food. The conditions were even worse than we imagined, the cold wind was gale force when it gusted, and although the rain was slight at first it soon came lashing down. I don't know what the scenery was like on this initial stretch as I had my head down watching my step on a very rutted and uneven narrow path. When we reached the outskirts of Mombuey there was an hotel,and it was straight into the bar for some shelter and a 'cafe con leche, grande'. A few minutes later Suzanna and Almont came in, had a look around then went out again. I realised that they wanted to use the loo first, and there was a sign on the door 'out of order' or similiar. We saw a few more people, motorists from the N630 which passed outside, come in see there was no loo and leave.Doesn't the management of this establishment see that there are losing custom with this 'mañana' attitude, motorists on a long journey looking for a toilet will stop here and at the same time buy at least a coffee out of courtesy. About fifteen minutes later we did encounter a different approach. Dripping and soaked, our bare legs cold we came across a clothing shop with jeans in the window and went in to have a look. The woman grabbed us and made sure we weren't leaving until we bought something, but in a nice way. She eventually recommended 'pantelones', a type of heavy duty tights and moved somebody else from the changing room to allow us to try them on. They were perfect and will keep our legs lovely and warm, we even got a discount, E15 for the two pairs, and she had made a sale. Between these two events we found a supermarket and replenished our supplies. The girl at the checkout looked on in amusement as the coffee and jam were transferred from the jars into a plastic bag and a Tupperware container before packing away. We don't carry any excess weight if we can help it.

 

Now feeling a lot I warmer in our tights we struggled on through the relentless rain and driving wind. From what I could see of the countryside it was rough pasture land and we were never far way from either the motorway or the N630. When we reached the village of Cernadilla another 6.5km further on the guide book said there was a bar where we could have a break for at least warmth and shelter. It was like a deserted village not a sign of life, a bar or a shop. We moved on a further 2km and took shelter in the porch of the church at San Salvador de Palazuelos where we had lunch. I had made a flask of coffee before leaving this morning and we now had food. As we sat there the rain had gone off and there was a few lighter patches in the sky but when on the go again it poured down again.

 

The walk would have been very nice now on a dry sunny day as we made our way along wooded lanes and little villages like Entrepenas. There was another large reservoir that we glimpsed through the mist and trees, the Embalse de Cernadilla, which I would have photographed in better conditions. As it was we had to contend with thick mud, large puddles, and diversions to the route caused by road or rail construction work. When we arrived at Asturiarios we thought this was our destination for the day, it's difficult at times to know the names of villages, they don't put welcoming signs up on the dirt lanes we use. When finding that there was still 3km to go we found a bar, there was one and it was actually open. Two cyclists who had passed us earlier were there having lunch, their bikes were outside caked in mud, they had stripped off and their clothes drying on a radiator. The coffee here was good, large and hot, just what we needed for the final push.

 

What a surprise when we came out the bar, the rain was off and there was patches of blue sky showing. I took off my poncho and the still strong wind with the sunny spells we were getting soon dried off my tights and shorts. We had two options from Asturiarios, the waymarked route through more mud or the cyclists way along the N630. We chose the drier main road and could see our destination Palacios de Sanabria not too far away. We didn't have to worry about finding our accomodation, the 'landlady' Teresa was waiting for us as we entered the tiny village and guided us to her house. There was no form filling, passport checks or exchange of money; I even wanted to stop at her front door to remove my muddy shoes, but no, she took us straight upstairs to, for us, a luxury bedroom with the central heating radiator generating welcoming warmth. She left us and we stripped off hung anything wet over the radiator and had a wonderful piping hot shower. We were feeling alive again.

 

At 7:00pm we got a call or dinner and Suzanna and Almont were already at the table. We were the only peregrinos there. This pair admitted that they took a bus from Asturiarios for the final 3km, they also said that the other couple at the albergue last night, they were Swiss, took a bus all the way to the next big town of Puebla de Sanabria. I don't know why these people go on a walking route and end up cheating. The meal was quite good, the usual 'menu' type but we had a sort of stew for main course which was a bit different. Almont, the German woman, moaned that it was cold, but she tends to complain about everything.

 

I seemed to be very tired after today's strenuous conditions and after the meal I made a cup of coffee on the cooker in the room then got to bed. I was sleeping not long after 8:00pm.

Day 27

Via de la Plata

Monday 23 April 2012

Day 27

 

Tabara to Santa Croya de Tera 21km.

 

This morning there wasn't any rush as we were having a relaxing short walk of only 21km. We let the majority of people leave before getting up and having breakfast. Our meal was fairly limited today we only had a few slices of bread left, some jam, but plenty of coffee. It was 8:00 when we got going, there was one guy still in the albergue, he was staying another day to recuperate, injured and suffering with Achilles tendinitis.

 

It looked and felt alright as we went through the town but the buildings probably gave some shelter, because once out into the open flat lands the wind was blowing strongly and very cold. The ponchos were soon donned and they are very effective in keeping out the wintry blasts. Some dark clouds came over during the morning but there were only a few spits of rain. It did warm up as the sky cleared and the sun came out, I took my poncho off but Moira wasn't convinced and kept hers on until the finish.

 

As we left Tabara we could see mountains ahead of us. They were quite high but the Camino managed to find a route over a more gentle col. Once over, it dropped down into a wide fertile valley with another range of hills on the other side. There were three ranges of mountains running from west to east and they had to be crossed on the way north. It made more varied walking and the use of different muscles, though none of the climbs was particularly difficult or exhausting. Now Moira has her inhaler for the asthma she was diagnosed to have, she has a couple of puffs and flies up the hills, I have a job keeping up with her.

 

I had filled the flask before leaving and we had our break for a hot drink after two hours as usual. We found two tins of tuna in our food bag and scoffed these as well, this walking makes you very hungry. The plan was to have another stop at the bar in the village of Bercianos de Valverde which was reached an hour later but the place was dead to the world. There was no sign of a bar and if there had been one no doubt it would be closed. We just carried on for the last 7km to the finish instead. I fail to understand if the economy is so bad why doesn't the owner put up a sign pointing the direction to his bar. There is a small passing trade of peregrinos each day who would enjoy at least a cup of coffee why not make sure you capture it. Another example of this was when we left Tabara this morning Moira went into a supermarket on the square where the door was open, but she was told that they weren't open yet. We left and that was lost business for them, shops should grab at customers by whatever means,as they are like gold.

 

The albergue, Casa Anita, was at the far end of the village of Santa Croya. It was a battle across the valley to the village and also through the streets because of the wind. It had picked up and was now gale force and cold, it was like the east wind you sometimes get in Scotland especially around Edinburgh. I said to Moira that this cold wind probably blows all winter then come summer when it is hot there is not a breath of a breeze, that's when the whole place bakes. The albergue was a private concern and was very nice. It was only E11 each and they did dinner for E10. Unfortunately you weren't allowed to use their kitchen and for coffee there was a machine. I had a cup it was diabolical. Later we went out and found a bus shelter where I set up the cooker and made us a cup of coffee, I also filled the flask for later.

 

They had Internet and we were able to get up to date with downloads of the newspaper and our email. As it was so cold they had a big room with a huge log fire going, now we were very warm. The two German women, Suzanna and Amont were there but Stefan had gone on further today, maybe we will see him in Santiago. The women had their meal in the afternoon and it looked good, we waited until evening. There was a big bowl of pasta to start then we had fish with salad. I had a banana for sweet and Moira ice cream, we halved

them and had banana with ice cream.

 

While on the Internet earlier Moira found some photographs recently taken at O Cerbriera on the Camino Frances. It was snow bound and looked more like an Alpine landscape than sunny Spain. Its been cold where we are but surely it can't get that bad. This weather must change, mustn't it? What about Global Warming?.

Day 21 to Day 26

Via de la Plata

Tuesday 17 April 2012

Day 21

 

San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca. 25km

 

We had breakfast of cereal, bread and jam washed down with fruit juice in the room, and then got going at 7:30am. The place was dead to the world and we went out the back door, the route through the bar was locked. If I hadn't paid last night there was nobody looking for money now and we could have left without paying. But we are honest and would have sat around probably for an hour waiting for them to come for their money.

 

There was no wind first thing and in the perfectly calm conditions it felt relatively mild. Even so, we weren't taking any chances and wore double t-shirts and shorts with our hands protected with our spare socks. We were looking for a bar for a hot coffee, as the 'VII Carreras' wasn't open when we left we hoped for something in the first village, Morille, only 4.5km away. But no luck there, everything closed except for the small albergue. I had a look inside, it had six beds and a shower/toilet, and it appeared that only one person had stayed there last night, we should have gone there instead.

 

The next town was another 10km, Miranda de Azan, and it was like a ghost town. There were two bars but both closed. The worst thing about, Miranda, was that it was off the route and we had an extra 2km to walk there and back for nothing. We didn't get our first coffee of the day until we were in Salamanca and until then had to make do with water to go with our apple and magdalenas.

 

The route today was varied and undulating. The countryside had changed back again to arable farming with large fields of wheat, about a foot high but still green. We got our first sign of Salamanca, away in the distance from the crest of a hill shortly after Morille but it was still about 15km of walking. It didn't seem to get any nearer and after our detour into Miranda we crested another hill where an information board gave us an account of the Battle of Salamanca during the Napoleonic Wars, and from there could now see the towers of the Cathedral. At that point I thought we must have been making good time and arrived very early but it was still another hour before we crossed the Rio Tormes over the Roman bridge and reached the albergue at the Cathedral. We got there shortly after 1:00pm and the hospitalier was just locking up for his siesta time but allowed us to leave our rucksacks inside. There were already a few other bags there and everyone has to return at 4:00pm for registration and bed allocation. The guy was the same hospitalier that booked us into the monastery in Alcuescar, he must do the rounds of church albergues.

 

Now rid of the weight from our backs it was easy strolling around the city centre with its magnificent buildings. We wanted to find the tourist info office but first made our coffee stop. There were only two others in the cafe, a couple of women from Jedburgh in the Scottish borders doing a tour of the Spanish cathedrals. They told us that the tourist office was closed until 4:00pm, one of them gave us a city map to help us get about. We decided to have a big lunch today instead of waiting until late evening again and found an Italian restaurant where we had salads and pizza.

 

For the rest of the afternoon it was spent just wandering about admiring the beautiful architecture of these wonderful old buildings. The cathedral in particular had intricate carvings on the stone work surrounding the doorway arch and figures were sculptured into sides of the structure and even all the way up the tower. Inside the cathedral huge pillars rose high, supporting a curved multi carved ceiling. Wherever there was a piece of stone the masons obviously couldn't resist carving and sculpting, it was one of the most impressive cathedrals we have visited.

 

We made our way back to the albergue for opening time and the French peregrinos, we have been meeting over the past few days, were there waiting. We had to wait patiently in a queue while the hospitalier took us individually and filled in his complicated forms before allocating us a bed. We were in a dorm with the French people, it was small and held four double bunks, I was on top again, and with all the people in at the same time it was a trifle cramped.

One plus for the albergue was that it had a kitchen of sorts, a microwave and a kettle, so before going out again we enjoyed a large mug of coffee.

 

We wanted to find a shopping mall; we had decided to buy a 'camping gaz' cooker as we were fed up not getting a hot drink regularly, and also to look at Netbook computers to replace the Kindle for reading. At the tourist info we got directions, the woman said it was 4km away and did we have a car or did we want a bus. She was amazed when we said we would walk, then told her that 4km was nothing having just passed halfway today towards Santiago. Yes, we crossed the 500km point this morning in three weeks, that's two days ahead of schedule.

 

The walk to the shopping mall was quite pleasant and we probably saw some sights away from the normal tourist routes. The stroll took us over the Rio Tormes by a more modern bridge then along the river banks. The weather had improved considerably, the sun was shining and the wind wasn't nearly as cold. We got our cooker and a pot at the sports supermarket 'Decathlon' and then had a look at Netbooks computers in a electronics store. We selected the one we wanted but the operating system was in Spanish, they would change it to English for E20 after we bought it. I said change it first, they wouldn't compromise so they lost the sale. Again I'm astounded at the supposedly severe economic climate especially in Spain and that businesses don't bend over backwards to secure a sale, I'm sure that they aren't getting many people buying computers at the moment.

 

It was 8:00pm when we were back at the hostel, we immediately made for the kitchen. We had sandwiches to eat as we had our big meal at lunchtime. There was a Norwegian guy there preparing for his Camino. He had done the first half to Salamanca last year and was back now to complete it. We got to bed shortly after 9:00pm, tired but not feeling fresh even after the extra 8km to the mall.

 

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 18 April 2012

Day 22

 

Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel. 16km

 

We left at 7:15am this morning just after the hospitalier open the door to let people leave. The French were just getting up while we had breakfasted long before. The weather didn't feel to bad, a bit cold but with no wind blowing and the shelter of the city buildings it was quite pleasant, but we still had a double layer of clothing and socks on our hands. Cicerone told us to head up to the city square where the tourist office was, through the archway opposite and then straight on following the road to Zamora.

 

It wasn't the best of starts on the busy city streets, over dangerous crossings and then when we cleared the outskirts it was along the side of the N630 to Aldeaseca de la Armuna, the first village 6.5km from Salamanca. After that we were on a wide path of hard packed earth which was much easier on our feet. The weather was now deteriorating fast, the wind was blowing and it was freezing again, we stopped and put on our ponchos to keep warm. Later when we were approaching our destination for the day it began to rain and it was showery all afternoon.

 

When we were at the village of Castellanos de Villiquera with 4km to go, the Norwegian guy we met last night caught up with us and we walked together to the albergue at Calzada. The hospitalier was there busy cleaning so we didn't have to go hunting for the key and were booked in right away and picked our own bed, no hassle. There was one guy there before us, he overtook us leaving Salamanca; he was German and we met him previously away back in Monesterio, he remembered us. Later one of the French couples from last night turned up and a German pair that we didn't know, that was the place full and later people were being turned away, either to try the local hostal or walk on for another 19km in now appalling conditions.

 

The albergue was alright, just the one small dorm and it did have a small kitchen of sorts, with a microwave for coffee and Moira managed to heat a packet of soup in it for lunch and even make a chicken curry for dinner. The showers could have done with some maintenance, the hose to the rose in the ladies was broken spraying water everywhere but on you, and in the gents the shower door was falling off causing flooding of the floor.

 

Moira had gone out to the village shop which was well stocked for food but I never ventured from the hostel all day. The visitors book had people writing that it was a lovely little village with very friendly people but it was too wet and cold to see for ourselves. About 5:00pm a Portuguese guy arrived, I told him it was full up but he proceeded to take off his rucksack and soaking wet jacket, I thought he was intending to sleep on the floor or something and I would be tripping over during my nightly visits to the loo. Fortunately he left with another two woman who arrived, to look for the Casa Rural hostal. These women had flown to Salamanca this morning from Madrid and started walking at lunch time. I said to Moira that people should have more sense than to leave so late for an albergue that has only eight beds but when we thought about it we remembered that we did the same thing on our first Camino. We left St Jean Pied a Porte late in the morning to an albergue in the Pyrennes only to find it full and having to walk a further 19km to Roncevales. So we were just as stupid when learning the ropes.

 

The curry Moira made in the microwave turned out great and it was delicious. This was certainly an improvement on eating out, and we finished off with strawberries and yoghurt. The rest of the peregrinos were looking enviously at our meal. I discovered that there was an electric heater fitted into the base of the table where we dined, I soon got it running and we were now nice and snug and warmed inside with a hot curry.

 

Today was another case of finishing early and nothing much to do. After dinner we played at cards and Moira won again, then we chatted to the German guy and the Norwegian. The French couple had gone out for dinner and the other German couple went to bed about 8:00pm. We got to bed at 9:00pm and I slept alright for a few hours but got wakened by the Frenchman snoring,it went on for about an hour. That's the problem with albegues and dorms.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Thursday 19 April 2012

Day 23

 

Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino. 20km.

 

Last night everyone had put there rucksacks into the lounge area, obviously to make a quick getaway in the morning. We did the same and when we got up at 6:00am it just a matter of picking up our sleeping bags and slip out of the dorm without disturbing anybody. We had finished our breakfast again and started packing up before others appeared. We were first to leave at our earliest yet, 6:50 am.

 

It wasn't raining and there was no wind, yet!, but well wrapped up again anyway and had got our ponchos on right from the start to keep warm. For a change I was feeling if not warm at least not cold. The wind did get up and it was colder later in the morning but not miserable and depressing like yesterday. What was depressing was the route, more or less along the side of the Ruta de la Plata motorway all the way, and a straight line to beyond the horizon. Underfoot it was good going with a wide track on hard packed earth.

 

We made good time walking at a fast pace but our German friend overtook us within an hour. The Norwegian guy was the only other one near us and arrived at the albergue just behind us. The 'new' German couple didn't appear they seemed to be going on further. The albergue didn't open until midday when we arrived at El Cubo, and the German was the only one there waiting. As we had half an hour until,opening I got the new cooker out and made coffee while Moira went to the local shop for our dinner. The French couple pitched up while we were enjoying our coffee and stared with amazement.

 

The hospitalier gave us a room with two sets of bunks, presumably because we were 'matrimonial', the single men were put elsewhere. We thought the French pair would be beside us in the other bunks but they ended up with the men. they can't be married. When we got to El Cubo there was blue sky and the sun was shining, before doing anything else we got our washing done, with the sunny weather now and the wind still blowing it was good drying conditions.

 

Later while sitting down to our lunch of soup and lovely crispy Spanish bread, Stefan arrived. He had walked from Salamanca this morning, but he is young and strong, it was easy for him. It looked like it was going to be another afternoon and evening like yesterday, stuck together in a tiny room with nothing to do and cold. To break the monotony we had a walk round the village. There was nothing there of interest except the church, locked up as usual now, which had a plaque on the front in Spanish about the Comino. Also there was a cross in front with St. James and the iconic shells all round the base. Although the sun was out the wind was cold and not too pleasant for strolling, soon we were heading back. There was an opportunity to warm up outside the hostel, it was an open air exercise area with fitness equipment, we had a go on all of them but it was still too cold.

 

Moira made a big pot of pasta for dinner, there was a ring cooker in the kitchen. It was made with shell pasta, mussels from a tin, cherezo sausage,peppers and herbs and spices, all in one pot. Later all the others went to the bar to eat and we got to bed early. Moira read from the iPad but I got to sleep. It was lovely and peaceful all by ourselves and I slept like a log. Th rest night's sleep I've had in ages.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Friday 20 April 2012

Day 24

 

El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora 32km.

 

We were both awake at 6:00am but we didn't rush to get away. I made coffee which we had in the little dorm that was all our own, such luxury for a change. The rest of the peregrinos were getting up and ready early this morning to get an quick start for some reason. Our plan was to leave a little later and take it easy today; it was a long section and there was plenty of accommodation in Zamora, the albergue itself has 32 beds.

 

There was only the Norwegian left in the hostel when we got going at 8:00am, all wrapped up as usual. It had been raining when the others set out but now it was just spitting. It didn't seem as cold, maybe because the wind hadn't got up but the rain came again on in intermittent showers throughout the morning. The route didn't look very promising as we left El Cubo, instead of the N630 we were beside a railway line but only for a brief spell. As the day went on it improved considerably, there were twists and undulations that made it more interesting. The fields now were initially bright yellow with the flowers of rape, grown for the oil from it's seeds, then as we got nearer to Zamora there were acres of grape vines. Zamora is on the Rio Duero which flows down through Portugal to Oporto, the region designated to the cultivars for port wine, I don't know whether the grapes in this area qualify.

 

Not long after leaving the Norwegian caught up with us and was complaining about the weather conditions, the distance to Zamora and whether we should stop at the albergue in the first village, Villanueva de Campean, that we were coming to. I said no way were we only walking 13km to spend another day looking at each other. He tagged along behind us for a while then when we stopped for a break he went on and was soon out of sight. When we reached Villanueva there was no sign of him, we found the albergue but it was closed at this time of the morning; but it had a porch with some stone benches to sit. It was a good shelter and I was able to get the cooker going there, and brewed up some coffee.

 

From Villanueva there wasn't any other places listed in Cicerone on the route until we reached Zamora. It was a surprise then, when about 5km later there was a village ahead. The route took a loop round it and missed it completely. This was surprising as the Camino usually makes detours especially to take the pilgrims it visit and also bring business to the locals. The village was called San Marcial, maybe they don't want peregrinos!! From this point there was a long hill and on the crest we could see Zamora, still about 10km in the distance. There was short section on a tarred road before getting back on to a nice gravel track again, through the fields of vines.

 

At this time we were due another stop and I spotted a farm barn that we could shelter from the wind behind. When we reached it there was about five dogs tied up on long ropes all along the front of the barn barking like fury at us. I don't know what they were protecting but we ignored them and found a spot, between bales of hay, to sit comfortably for lunch. Once we were settled the dogs calmed down and everything was peaceful again.

 

Shortly after we were going again the sky cleared and the sun was warm for a change. Off came the ponchos which were being blown about by the still strong wind, and it was much easier moving. The Portuguese Camino joined the Via de la Plata with 6km to go to Zamora, and we had markers counting down the distance in kilometres from there.

 

Zamora was a beautiful city, as we approached there was a rewarding view of a magnificent cathedral on top of the hill above the Rio Duero. We crossed the river by a lovely old bridge, Puente de Piedra, then climbed a steep hill to the albergue. It was another of the type run by an officious old dear who had to do everything by the book. Form filling in first, then bed allocation followed all the rules and regulations. She then had to show us the kitchen and point out a cooker, fridge, waste bins etc as if we were completely stupid. I suppose the British treat foreigners that can't speak English the same way, as if they are mentally defective. One negative was the bunks, we were both given top ones, but these were very high from the floor and Moira was not happy at all with this, she was frightened about clambering in and out of bed at that height.

 

The kitchen was first class and Moira made a avocado salad and cooked a vegetarian pasta with food she had managed to get at some small shops that opened up after siesta. Stefan and the other German guy who is called Michael were here and in the same dorm. They had got here before 1:00pm, they were moving. We haven't seen anything of the guy from Norway, nobody knows what happened to him.

 

Before going to bed I took a walk to find the route for the morning. We were near the city centre and it was another place with some beautiful buildings, statues and magnificent architecture. I followed most of the route through the centre which was busy now, the Spaniards eat and entertain late, people all clothed in heavy coats

looked at me as if I was mad in shorts and sandals without socks.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Saturday 21 April 2012

Day 25

 

Zamora to Riego del Camino 35km.

 

Both of us didn't sleep very well last night with the snoring and the thought of climbing up and down from the very high top bunks. I was for once in a good sound sleep when somebody's phone alarm went off, it was 5:15am. I waited to see if anyone got up but nobody moved, I waited for fifteen minutes then I got up and gave Moira a shake as well. Down in the kitchen everything was nice and quite and we had our cereal and coffee in peace until the woman hospitalier arrived. She couldn't just mind her own business but pestered me about how to dry dishes, wipe the draining board and tell me that my water was hot enough for my coffee. It wasn't near boiling but the Spanish seem to like their coffee lukewarm, that's how you get it I'm the bars anyway. This old dragon fussing about forced us to get ready quickly, so we were packed and gone at 6:30am, our earliest yet.

 

I was able to lead the way to where I sussed out the route out of Zamora last night. After that it was a bit difficult in the dark and we were worried that we may have gone wrong, but a familiar yellow arrow conveniently appeared and we were happily on our way. The Camino basically followed the N630 all day, but we were on broad tracks of gravel or hard packed earth some distance from the road, so we were never really conscious of it until the route crossed it or we walked on it for a couple of very short distances.

 

The weather was varied, when we started with our ponchos on we were so warm that they were soon back in our bags, but later it rained and the cold wind picked up, on went the ponchos again. There were on and off all day. We thought as we approached our destination of Riego and the sky was blue it had changed for the better but,no, there was one black cloud and down came the heaviest shower of the day. The scenery was also varied we had at the beginning endless fields of wheat and rape, fortunately the track was undulating and took a number of bends to make it more exciting and interesting. When we left the village of Montamarta where most of the people leaving Zamora would stop for the night there was a castle like structure on the top of a hill, the Shrine de la Virgen del Castille, and was overlooking a large depression in the land, this was the Ricobayo reservoir which was completely dry. Further on there was a reservoir,Embalse del Rio Elsa, which had plenty of water and at the end of it was the ruins of a castle dating from Roman times but used up until 18th century as the seat of the Knights of the Order of Santiago.

 

When we reached Montamarta we stopped in the village square and had coffee from the flask. While there Stefan came along, he had been with Michael but he had gone to find the albergue to stay there. Another couple of guys also caught up but they also stopped for a break before carrying on. When we left we were in front again, Stefan had gone to the bar for breakfast. Montamarta was one of these villages you see at a distance and the track winding in different directions never seeming to get there; I said to Moira that after a long walk and finishing here it would be frustrating that you were never going to get to the albergue. What should happen but the same thing for us coming to Riego, we had 35km in our legs and back and the track was never ending even though we could see the town all the time and not appearing to get any nearer.

 

I struggled a bit today on the last 10km, the side of my left foot was sore and my back was in agony. I took a couple of pain killers and they helped to get me to the finish. The albergue was basic but there was free beds and we got two bottom ones on a double bunked dorm. Once we dumped our bags we headed to the bar for lunch. It was on the N630 which passed through Riego, it was also pretty basic. We asked for something to eat and the woman offered us salad and a chop and chips. She put us in a store room at the back where we ate, it turned out very nice and appetising.

 

When we got back to the albergue we had showers and then got to bed for an hour, not so much for a siesta but to keep warm. The woman came later to stamp the cards and fill in her forms, once

that was completed she was off, no problem, that's what we like. Stefan had arrived first in the hostel and we joined him for another meal at the bar in the evening along with a Swiss woman and a German one who stayed at Zamora last night. This time we had soup followed by egg and chips. Not luxury meals but we enjoyed them.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Sunday 22 April 2012

Day 26

 

Riego del Camino to Tabara. 34km.

 

It was another long and tiring day today but it was worth it as the scenery was outstanding. At the start heading to Granja de Moreruela it looked as if it would be more of long straight tracks through endless fields of wheat and rape but after Granja it all changed. The route went through nice woodland where the track was enclosed by hedgerows of bramble bushes and probably wild grape vines with the bright red of the occasional poppy adding colour. There were hills as well not serious ones but they made the journey interesting and rewarded us with fine views. The best of the day was when on the tarred road it took us down to the Rio Esla and over a many arched bridge. The river cut a small gorge through rocky cliffs as it flowed into the dammed area of the Embalse de Ricobayo reservoir that was passed on the walk yesterday. Once over the bridge the usual wide gravel tracks we had become used to disappeared and we were on a narrow rocky path winding its way above the river and ascending a rocky cliff to give panoramic views of the whole stretch of the river. This small section was the best of this Camino so far, and we enjoyed this tricky path was some minor scrambling over rocks. It was a slight anticlimax after that as we returned to farm land and straight earthen tracks. The section between Faramontanos de Tabara and our finish at Tabara was spoilt by lots of new road construction work and diversions to the route, but it didn't dampen the enjoyment we had earlier in the day.

 

This morning after a very good night's sleep I was up at 6:00 am and had the cooker on for coffee. I thought with the small dorm to ourselves we would be quickly finished breakfast, packed and away, but it was 7:15am when we set out. What a change in the weather, no ponchos this morning, it was still cold and required socks on our hands but the sky was clear and there wasn't a breath of wind.

Later in the day when the sun was high we even removed our fleeces. The first time we have had them off in well over a week. Our pace was fairly fast to Granja but Stefan still caught up with us there after leaving about half an hour behind. He stopped there looking for a bar and breakfast, nobody else seems to carry any food with them.

 

At Granja there was a split in the route, you could either head for Astorga where it joined the French Route to Santiago or as we were doing make for Santiago via Ourense. Although the whole walk we were doing was termed the Camino de Santiago/Via de la Plata, at this point we actually leave the Via de la Plata and join the Camino Sanabres to Ourense. The albergue had been busy last night but some of these pilgrims will be taking the option to Astorga so things may get quieter from now on, hopefully!!

 

We reached Tabara at 3:00pm, both very tired, this had been the third long day in a row. My back had been sore again, the

pain beginning after 20km, but my foot was fine today. I used a different lacing system for my shoes, missing out the second top holes and so relieving the pressure on the sides of my feet. As we entered Tabara we met Stefan heading for the bar, he directed us to the albergue which was still a kilometre from the town centre, not what we needed after having done 34km. The good news was that there was plenty of beds and we got a couple of bottom bunks. We arrived in time as it started to fill up especially with a bunch of cyclists and resulted in a Spanish guy who stayed with us last night preparing to sleep on the floor. Everyone was moaning about the cyclist as the rule is that they get beds last after all the walkers, eventually the hospitalier sorted it out when she arrived and the peregrino got a bed, I don't know who she kicked out but there was a lot of shouting. I never actual saw the hospitalier, we had selected our own beds when we got there, showered and made coffee in the kitchen before she showed up. After sorting out the cyclist she disappeared again and we had to get our credentials stamped at the bar later. Moira filled our details in a book and put a donation in the box, that's the type of albergue we like. I still have one perplexing question: why do I have to remove my shoes before I'm allowed to enter some albergues but here the cyclists were able to wheel their bikes into the kitchen to store overnight?

 

There was a lovely kitchen here but unfortunately we had no food left and being Sunday Spain closes down. We were able to make tea and coffee but went to a local pub restaurant to eat at 8:00pm. We dined with Stefan, the Swiss woman, Suzanna and her German companion,???. The two woman had met last year when they were walking from Sevilla to Salamanca and agreed to join up this year for the completion of their pilgrimage. The meal was very nice, spaghetti for starters and chicken and chips for main course, all for E9.

 

We were back at the dorm for 9:00pm and straight to bed. I had found some ear plugs at the last place we stayed and they worked well. If anyone was snoring during the night we never heard them

 

 

Day 20

Via de la Plata

Monday 16 April 2012

Day 20

 

Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados. 29km.

 

Last night we packed our rucksacks before going to bed and this mor ing when we got up at 6:30am we quietly picked them up with our sleeping bags and slipped to the kitchen without disturbing anyone. We were breakfasted, packed and ready to go as others began to appear. I managed to get the flask filled today.

 

When we arrived at the town yesterday there was a few flakes of snow!!! And while we were having dinner it got heavier but soon turned to rain. This morning as we left it had all cleared and the sky was cloudless, it was still cold but the strong biting bitter wind had gone and it was pleasant walking, as we set out.

 

The first section after leaving town was flat but it was at a height of 955 metres, that was at Munro level for about 12km. In the distance and waiting for us was a big hill, Pico de Duena at 1140 metres, higher than Ben Nevis, with a long row of windmills on top. We had a rest and an apple before tackling the climb which turned out to be not so difficult, really an easy gradual incline over about 3km. I suppose it was a good place to stick windmills, it was blowing a gale there and it was cold like yesterday. We stayed on top to take photographs of the last of a series of wooden crosses placed along the route and also some with us beside at trig point on the summit.

 

The descent wasn't too steep and our knees held out for the long boring walk along a track next to the road. The road went on and on to the top of a hill on the horizon and when you got there it went on and on again to the next horizon. Also the wind that was blowing on the summit continued, it was freezing and we were directly into it; the only relief was during brief lulls when we felt the benefit of the sun. The first 'marked' point in Cicerone was 5km along this straight line at Cadazilla de Mendigos, pig farm, I wanted to make there for our lunch break but Moira was feeling tired with the push into the wind and we found some shelter in the trees. Once going again, much refreshed, it took half an hour to reach the pigs then it was just 8km to the albergue.

 

We were both battling by this time with the wind, the cold and the soul destroying relentless straight band of track in front of us. Suddenly there appeared a sign, ' San Pedro 2km', we thought it was much further. We had a five minute break and now joyfully made for our overnight stop. The route also change as we headed away from the road and climbed a wooded hill to see the little town a short distance down the other side.

 

The 'VIi Carreras' wasn't really an albergue but a bar with accommodation attached. We asked the barman for a double room and he had to go and enquire, when it was confirmed that there was one available we had to wait fifteen minutes while they cleaned it. I wonder how these people survive in business, when I come into a place advertising accommodation, at 2o'clock in the afternoon, I expect rooms to be ready and available. Our book described the accommodation as luxurious, it was at best adequate. We had a small double bed, en suite, with plenty of radiators that didn't work and it was cold. I immediately had a shower, the water was at least hot and I felt much better. I got into bed to keep warm while Moira showered. We both spent the afternoon under the covers keeping warm.

 

Moira went out after siesta and found a shop where she stocked up on some food. She also found that there was WiFi here and downloaded the newspapers. As dinner wasn't until 8:30 we had bread and jam, an apple and fruit juice in our room to keep us going while we caught up with the news on the iPad.

 

We were .joined for dinner by Stefan and some of the French pilgrims who were all staying elsewhere. There was a party of about twenty locals who were getting attended to first by just a couple of waiters and we were left for half an hour starving. Eventually when the food did come it was alright and plenty of it. We stated with a soup which I though was tripe and Moira said was some animals brains, then there was thick slices of the local ham but no veg or chips and to finish lemon cheese cake. As we were residents we seemed to get preferential treatment and much bigger helpings, which I don't think pleased the French.

 

I paid the bill before going to bed so we could leave quickly in the morning. It was a bit steep in comparison with what we have got used to, E60 for the set menu and our 'habitation'. Another complaint we had about the room was the piles of blankets on the bed, yes it was warm but we could hardly move. Moira said have they not heard of duvets here. Not one one of our better overnights, and certainly not luxurious.

 

Day14 to Day19

Via de la Plata

Tuesday 10 April 2012

Day 14

Caceres to Alconetar. 30km.

 

At last we found a post office and managed to get the Kindle on its way back to Amazon. We had the basic breakfast in the albergue cafeteria of a large toasted piece of bread, butter and marmalade with coffee before getting away at 8am. We had to wait ten minutes for the post office to open before we went to the tourist info to try to reserve beds at the hostel we were making for today. They tried phoning but there was no reply, they got through to the local council who told them it was open; we went on our with with assurances from them that they would kept trying and hopefully make a booking for us.

 

We had to rely on Cicerone to get us through Caceres and on to the Camino again. The first part when we left the city was on the busy N630 and the hard shoulder was narrow and dangerous with the traffic whizzing past. We could see a footpath in the fields in the distance on the other side of the roadway fence and tried to scramble over the fields to get to it. We were snookered when we came to a river and had to make our way back to the road. After a couple of kilometres a path did appear that led us on to this track I saw from a distance and to the security of our familiar yellow arrows.

 

Our stop after two hours coincided with arriving at the town of Casar de Caceres and it was into the first bar we came to for a refreshing 'cafe con leche'. On leaving we came to a 'Dia' supermarket where we managed to stock up on basic supplies. This town turned out to be a lot bigger than I thought and we had to depend on Cicerone again to lead us through, as there were no waymarks at all. Someone else having difficulties finding her way was the Danish girl we met a few days ago when leaving Merida, she had only walked from Caceres as well this morning but was crippled by blisters and now looking for the albergue but couldn't find it, that's the problem with doing long distances too early and before your feet are toughened up.

 

The weather was looking quite good earlier but clouds were developing, fortunately they were broken up and still lots of blue showing through. There was a strong wind blowing and we felt the force of it more on the next section. Cicerone portrays it as ' a very nice walk in the early morning if you like being - on the roof of the world- in wide open spaces'. This was a very accurate description as the path made its way over bleak moorland, desolate, and rocky, fit only for the sheep that grazed on the sparse grass. Our guide book also said that we could see the town of Canaveral at the foot of a mountain in the distance from the high point of the track and we actually could make it out, it was about 30km away. The book also stated that looking back on a good day we would see Caceres but we failed there, even though it was a fine and clear.

 

The track was a firm gravelled surface with dry stoned walling which gave us some shelter from the wind coming from the west. We were able to sit behind these walls to have our lunch and rest breaks, where it was surprisingly quite warm when out of the wind. Soon we could see not only Canaveral, now a little closer, but the reservoir Alconetar was now clearly visible, stretching out in the valley below. There was quarrying and road or railway line building going on in the area and this caused diversions to the Camino route. The detour took us in a wide loop to meet the N630, and at this junction we had an argument about whether to go right or left. Fortunately there was a workman at the junction directing traffic and he told us to go right. The problem now was that we had 7km on the road before reaching the turn off to the albergue, this was compensated by beautiful views of the man-made lake and the back drop of mountains. What made this last part difficult was counting down the kilometres from the roadside markers not just in full kilometres but they were given in 100 metre intervals; the wind which had now picked up again and especially when we crossed the bridges over the Rio Almonte and Rio Tajo it was like a wind tunnel; and lastly worrying whether the albergue would be full or even open.

 

When we turned into the dirt road going down towards the lake and the albergue there was a sign ' A abierto' which I took in my limited Spanish to mean it was closed. As we continued down the track it started to rain and I was now contemplating having another 14km to walk in the wet to Canaveral tonight. Imagine my surprise and joy when we came to a '5 Star' albergue open for business. They even had reservations for us, phoned through by the tourist office in Caceres. The dorms were small, three double tiered bunks with a stairway and a platform giving access to the top one. The showers were first class and there was also a service where the warden did your washing for you. There was the bonus of WiFi being available.

 

Once we had washed and settled in we were able to order a meal from a limited menu. We had a salad between us and then a lasagne each, it was like an airline meal cooked in the microwave but very nice. The hostel was about half full and there were a few familiar faces of people who had pushed on while we were taking it easy. Jorge was there and the two smelly German ladies, also the Iron Man Frenchman we met at Valdesalor must now be taking it easy, he had only walked from Caceres today as well.

 

Moira was able to download the last few days newspapers from the Internet to the iPad. She stayed up to read them while I got off to bed. I found a big fluffy duvet in a cupboard in the dorm and I was snug under it as I managed a good night's sleep.

 

A point of interest that Moira got from the Internet was from the blog 'Alison's Wanderlust'. Alison is the girl from California that we met in Sevilla who took a taxi to avoid the 16km stretch of road walking from Castilblanco. She is now about two days ahead of us but again cheated by taking a bus from Alcuescar to almost Caceres.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 11 April 2012

Day 15

Alconetar to Grimaldo. 22km

 

I was wakened, got up at 5:30am and went through to the dining area to work on yesterday's blog. The French Iron man as I call him, that did 60 km in one day was also up and he presented me with a cup of coffee. All the breakfast things had been left out by the warden who obviously goes home at night and only turns up at mid-day to open up for the arrival of the pilgrims. There were three carafes of coffee to be heated up as required in the microwave, orange juice, bread for toasting, croissants, and the little Spanish fairy cakes called 'magdalenas'. I did a bit of writing then gave Moira a call to get up and enjoy this very nice breakfast.

 

We were packed up and ready to go by 7:30am and watched the sun rise over the mountains behind Canaveral when we reached the ridge well above the N630. It was a pleasant walk along a reasonably flat track towards Canaveral, signposted as being 11km away. It didn't look too far this morning, but if we had needed to continue there last night it would have been heart breaking. The route was disrupted with a few detours, again due to the road or railway construction, we weren't sure which, but all diversions were well sign posted. We didn't have to go into Canaveral, the Camino by-passed it, but we stopped for a break at the junction with a path, signposted to the albergue in the town. At this stop I had a drink of water and a 'Magdalena' cake I had taken from the albergue, while Moira tended to her blisters which were given her problems. It was only a short walk today so she would manage to hold out.

 

As our path looped round the town it met the N630 which we left after a short distance to pick up a path at the Ermita de San Cristobal, a little chapel on the hillside. There was a bit of a climb now and at the top we meandered through a lovely pine forest. The path was carpeted in pine needles and it was very easy on our feet. We emerged from the forest to meet the road again at Puerto de los Castanos which turned out to be an hotel. Here we now entered another forest, this time of oak trees, their barks all stripped for the cork. There was a sign 'Albergue Grimaldo 2km', but this seemed more like 4km when we reached the turning into the village and another sign there,'Albergue Grimaldo 1km'. Fortunately this was accurate and we soon came to the village and the albergue was in front of us, attached to and run by the pub.

 

It was a fairly basic place with three rooms with two double bunks in each. There was a microwave, so I was able to make coffee and tea later. We settled on a top and bottom set of bunks, I don't mind the top one now. Later we gave up these bunks to the French couple who arrived late when the place was full. They were going to sleep on a double mattress on the floor outside our dorm, I would be disturbing them when I get up to the loo at night and in the morning when we get up early, so better we slept there instead. This was the guy who miscalculated his schedule and hotel booking in Caceres and took a taxi there from Valdesalor. He had cheated again this morning taking a bus from Caceres to Canaveral and only walking from there today.

 

The village of Grimaldo extended for about 50 metres on either side of the albergue and pub. There was definitely nothing to do here. After we had lunch we sat on a comfortable sofa, drank coffee and read the newspapers that Moira managed to download last night. In the evening we went to the attached pub, Bar Grimaldo, for dinner. It was fixed menu with soup to start, the kind we seem to keep getting that has lots of spaghetti in it; the main course was fish and chips and we finished with ice cream. Not too bad for E10 each.

 

We got to bed as soon as we returned to the albergue and we were quite comfortable on the mattress on the floor. I dropped off to sleep but wakened about 10:30 to go to the loo and tripped over a couple sleeping on a mattress across the doorway out of our room. When I returned I thought they would have moved from such a stupid place but on, I stood all over them again. This resulted in some shouting and cursing, so when I got to bed I was upset and couldn't sleep. I had to pay a visit again about 1:30 and fortunately they had seen sense and moved away from the doorway. I have found that a lot of people on the Camino are very selfish and don't consider how their actions might affect their fellow pilgrims.

 

 

 

Via de la Plata

Thursday 12 April 2012

Day 16

 

Grimaldo to Galistao 20km.

 

I eventually got some sleep after the arguments of last night and it was 6:30am when I awoke. I got up right away, nobody else was up so I made some coffee for us using the microwave, I've given up caring about disturbing people, they should be awake by this time anyway.We had a good breakfast before leaving, there was still plenty of cereal, yoghurt and magdalenas left in our food supply. Nobody else seem to have anything to eat before leaving, they don't appear to carry any food and depend on the bars for their meals.

 

We left at 7:15am and it took us fifteen minutes to find our way down to the Camino at the point we left it yesterday. It was still dark especially in the wooded area and we took one wrong turning and had to backtrack. Once on the trail again it was a very pleasant walk initially through rolling hillsides with a backdrop of some high mountains, resembling Scotland a lot. The path was well defined and the way marking excellent as we made our way through the gates of one farm field after the other. Underfoot it was rough in places which slowed us down but we were taking it easy anyway as the plan was to do about 30km to Carcaboso. The weather was nice and not as cold early on as previous days, later it warmed up enough to take off our fleeces.

 

We are having a stop every hour now for at least five minutes, this gives my back a rest which still suffers from an awkward rucksack. After about two hours we came up to the 'French Iron Man' having a rest and a smoke. Moira greeted him with an 'Ola' and 'Buen Camino' but got no reply, as we went on I shouted 'Bye' but got only a grunt in reply. We don't know what his problem was and we didn't see him again today.

 

After a while the fields and undulating scenery were broken by the appearance of a broad river below forming a horseshoe bend as it fed a small reservoir. The track went round the dam to a weir and then met the road. At this point there was a trail with one of the concrete blocks indicators showing a rough path climbing the hillside but pointing towards the road to the left was a continuous line of yellow arrows. We assumed that this was a diversion and a new route had been created. We picked the arrowhead route which was a mistake. This resulted in about an 8km detour on tar roads all the way to Galesteo, the only redeeming feature of going this way was two long multi-arched railway bridges. Otherwise it was a pure slog, it took us through a small town which bore no indication of what it was called, then 5km of distance markers to torture us. We had read in 'Alison's Wanderlust' blog the other day that she came to a junction of paths and somebody shouted 'don't go that way take this route' and she saved 5km. We now assume that the junction was this one with all the yellow arrows. Later another perigrino told us that the diversion was to take people through the town with 'no name' and hope people would spend money there. We were not amused.

 

When we reached Galesteo we were exhausted and hungry. The next planned 11km to Carcaboso was also on the road, we couldn't face it and made for the local albergue. The town was completely walled with battlements all the way round and the Camino led up to the Puerto del Rey, an archway through the walls. The guide folds us to walk around the outside of the walls to find the hostel, and we were successful with the help of the locals and some 'pigeon Spanish'. The door was locked, par for the course, but while Moira went searching for assistance I found a Norwegian pilgrim sunning himself at the back. He was leaving later to bus it to Salamanca but was able to show me how to access the box where the door key was kept. I was in making coffee by the time Moira returned, she had been able to get food at a small supermarket and we had a good lunch thanks to the microwave.

 

We had finished eating when the wardens arrived, they gave out extra bedding and pillows then stamped our credentials, all for E7 each. Jorge had staggered in as well having slogged round the road route, but an English guy originally from Lincoln, now living in the States took the other way and said it was all off road, delightful and much shorter. Later in the afternoon the boy friend of the South African girl we met at the monastery popped in to see if there was anyone there he knew, yes us. They were staying at an hotel in the walled town having covered 40 km today.

 

We went out for a stroll early evening to the town. We were able to walk round the top of the walls for about half the perimeter, giving us good views of the surrounding countryside and some nice hills in the distance. The town itself within the fortifications wasn't anything special just the typical Spanish houses with narrow lanes. There were a couple of bell towers on churches with the usual storks nesting but when we came down from the walls we found as usual the churches locked. By this time it had begun to get cold and there seemed to be some rain in the air, so we headed back to the albergue.

 

For dinner we headed to the bar just around the corner and was joined by the EnglishAmerican. The meal wasn't the best we have had, a Spanish type pizzas then fish with lots of garlic. The sweet was nice, an apple sponge. Our companion was quite good company and we talk of the many walks we have both done. We were back and in to our bunks by 9:30pm.

 

The albergue was now full, with a lot of cyclists having arrived late. The worst about bikers is they tend to stay up later and we had one here who had the TV on loud in the lounge which wakened me at 11:00pm. I got him to turn it down and there wasn't any argument, fortunately. All the albergues seem to have TV sets for some reason, but this has been the first time anybody has bothered turning it on.

 

 

 

Via de la Plata

Friday 13 April 2012

Day 17

 

Galisteo to Hostal Asturias, Jarilla. 30km.

 

I slept quite well but was awake at 5:30am, I waited for fifteen minutes before getting up and quietly made myself a cup of coffee in the lounge. At 6am I gave Moira a shake and she came through and we had breakfast and were packed before most people were up. We were out and on the trail an hour later. The 11km to Carcaboso along the tarred road that put us off continuing yesterday turned out to be not so bad. It was a quiet country road with very little traffic and it was flat. The surroundings were beautiful wooded fields and the trees were full of birds entertaining us with their morning chorus. It was cold as usual but the sky was clear and it promised to be a lovely day for a walk. A guy followed us out of the town, obviously he wasn't certain of the route and we spoke to him as we made our way along the lane. He looked like a hippy with long dreadlocks, his English was good and he said he was from Estonia. He had been on the road walking for a year and had spent the night in a picnic area in his tent, he couldn't afford the albergue at the exorbitant cost of E7!!

 

About half way to Carcaboso we passed a French couple stopped for a rest at the road side, they must have stayed elsewhere, but we were surprised a little later when we overtook Jorge. We thought he was still in bed at the hostel but he must have slipped out while we were busy finishing our packing. Carcaboso was the ideal town for the Camino, we just turned a corner and there it was, not a place you normally see while still 4km away. Also after about 100metres into the town there was the albergue, 'Señora Elena', that we had intended staying yesterday, before the change of plan,next to the bar,'Ruta de la Plata'. This bar was mentioned in Cicerone as the place to arrange accommodation at the Hostal Asturias, which we preferred to the alternative of the albergue at Olivia, a walk of 6km 'off route' on tar. Señora Elena herself was serving in the bar and after ordering coffee tried unsuccessfully to explain that we wanted her to phone the hostal. Luckily Jorge arrived at that point and he happily made the booking using his phone, we bought him his breakfast as a reward. The arrangement is that when we reach the Roman arch at Caparra to phone the hostal and they would come out to pick us up. We would worry when we got there about making the actual call.

 

Señora Elena was a bit of a fuss pot and was very concerned that we found the correct route. She had prepared a hand drawn map which she gave me, it had a deviation that she assured us that was shorter. She even walked with our 'group', which now included the French couple we passed earlier on the road and Jorge, for nearly a kilometre to ensure our safe departure. Even with all this assistance Jorge, who had got out in front, took the official route instead of her detour and we had to call him back. Her unofficial Camino was a straight track instead of a wide loop and made up for some of the extra kilometres that the detour yesterday caused.

 

When we were on the waymarked Camino again it was the best walking and scenery we have had so far. The narrow path which was originally the Roman road was naturally straight and made its way through wooded meadows, while in the distance was a backdrop of some high mountains. The day had now warmed up and the grazing cattle had decided to take a break from eating and relax under the cool shade of the trees. There was a signpost with information about this Roman road and examples of milestones along this section, but although we looked closely failed to see them. Our 'group' had split up but we kept passing each other as rests were taken at different times. When we were having our lunch stop Jorge came along and joined us, he said that he had decided to go to the Hostal Asturias as well, instead of the albergue at Olivia. That solved the phoning problem and we arranged to meet at the Roman arch and all get a lift there together.

 

When we reached Venta Quemada, an isolated house at the side of the road that went down the 6km to Olivia, the French couple headed there, while Jorge and us went straight on. The 6km to the Roman arch were through some more extremely beautiful countryside as the path made its way along a wide grassy passage between two drystone walls. In the distance to the east we could see the range of mountains, Seirra de Gredos, where some high peaks with snowy white caps could be seen. The going was very good and we covered this section in just over an hour and had a seat to admire the Roman arch while waiting Jorge to catch up. The Camino passed under the arch which resembles a mini Arc de Triomphe, in the adjacent fields there were the excavations of the surrounding ancient city. These remains were all fenced off, but Cicerone says that you are able to walk round them from the visitors centre, which wasn't signposted anywhere. Jorge arrived a few minutes after us and made the phone call and it was an opportunity for lots of photographs while we waited the transport.

 

It was an exception to the normal Spanish attitude of 'mañana', the car, a comfortable Merecedes people carrier, arrived in fifteen minutes and we were being dropped off at the Hostal Asturias shortly after. It drove along a road more or less parallel to the Camino then about 2 km away from the route to the village of Jarilla on the N630. In the morning we will just have the short distance to walk on the road to meet the Camino, it will be cheating a little as we will be about five or six kilometres further on from the arch.

 

The hostal was fairly basic but we had a double room where we dumped our bags and had a nice hot shower. Lunches had finished at 4pm and the dining room didn't re-open until 9pm for diner, we sat in the bar and drank coffee and wine with Jorge and the French guy who took the taxi to Caceres the other day because he had miscalculated his hotel booking. The late meal was in the company of truck drivers who stopped there from the nearby motorway. The meal wasn't the best we have had, salad and trout, and it was the latest that we have gone to bed in a long time.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Saturday 14 April 2012

Day 18

 

Hostal Asturias, Jarilla to Banos de Montemayor. 20km

 

Last night I was reading that today's stage was impassable after a period of heavy rain. I looked out the window and said to Moira that there were clouds gathering and jested that it could rain. I should have kept my mouth shut as it poured down during the night. Everyone staying at the hostal left at the same time and were all kitted out in their rain gear and ponchos. It was dry when we started but there were still dark clouds about, the peaks of the Sierra de Gredos so clear yesterday were shrouded in mist.

 

To get back on to the Camino we didn't go back the way he drove us down last night, but Jorge had information that if we went straight along the N630 after a couple of kilometres we would pick up the yellow arrows. It was good starting off on the road and a firm surface after the rain until we warmed up, though when we reached the gravel and clay surface of the route it wasn't bad. There were only a few short sections where the trail was flooded and we had to gingerly make our way around the edges or dance across on convenient stepping stones. The scenery today was still wooded meadows but not as attractive as the section before the Roman arch, it may have been the wet conditions that depressed us somewhat.

 

It was about 11 km to the next town, Aldeanueva del Camino, and half way there the rain seemed to have definitely stopped and we took off our inconvenient ponchos. This was just tempting our luck as a few minutes later it started again. When we reached the town it was now pouring down and we were on the look out for a bar. The arrows took us away from the main road along a back lane and no obvious shops or signs of life. It looked like another of these now familiar unattractive towns. We headed back to the main road again and found a bar, already there were the French party that left with us earlier. We had a coffee until the rain cleared and now blue sky was actually showing.

 

We made our way back to the waymarked route through the town centre and found a 'panderia' with only half a baguette left but she sold us what later turned out to be a pie shaped like a Cornish pastie but with a big Spanish sausage inside, it was very nice. From the town centre we had a very pleasant surprise, rather than being the dump we thought it was, Aldeanueva turned out to be a very quaint and beautiful place. We crossed a lovely old bridge over the Rio Jerte and along a street with balconies on all the first floor houses, past a church with an old style water well outside. Some of the houses had the balconies decorated with brilliant red geraniums and one even had a grape vine trained through the balcony railings.

 

Very soon this delightful interlude ended and it was 10km on the narrow hard shoulder of the N630 to Banos de Montemayor. We did have a relief of one kilometre on a nice off road track through the trees but soon it was back to the side of the main road. We caught up with Jorge, who kept to the main road through Aldeanueva and hadn't discovered its hidden wonders, and together headed for the albergue. It was attached to a Via de la Plata culture centre but the 'hospitalier' wasn't due to open it for another fifteen minutes. The receptionist for the cultural side stamped our credentials and we wandered round the visual displays and waited. He arrived at the same time as the French group and then proceeded to talk and talk and talk. We couldn't understand but gathered he was explaining how to get on the route tomorrow and where to go for something to eat. Once these Spanish start talking they go on and on and on, with everyone joining in. My blood was beginning to boil and I was screaming to myself, 'just give me my bed and do all the talking later. There was the thing again about segregating married couples and we were in a small dorm with two double bunks and two single beds, we took bottom ones each and nobody complained. The warden also went on about the supply of hot water, there wasn't a big capacity in the tank so to just have a quick one. This time we waited until late afternoon after all the others were finished having ours, the water was fine, and we don't have half hour sessions like some. I can't figure out the rules and regulations that some of these officious characters enforce, they treat everyone like school kids and the Spanish and French seem to put up with it. Also why they had to have a separate person to deal with the albergue when the culture centre receptionist was sitting doing nothing all the time we were there. One wonders if the economy is in as bad state as we are led to believe. After all this hassle we then discovered there wasn't a kitchen, we would have been better going to a hostal or pension again and also had more privacy.

 

We had our lunch, I had the flask filled before leaving this morning, so there was hot coffee and tea with our pastie we bought earlier. Later we walked through the town and also checked out places to eat tonight. They all varied in opening times from 7pm to 9pm, but were all the same price for a 'menu' meal, we will go for the 7pm opening. It was raining on and off during our stroll but luckily we remembered to our ponchos with us.

 

Our dinner in the evening was very good and we were joined by a German guy, Stephan, that we have been saying 'Ola' to along the Camino. He was enjoyable company and a strong walker, having done 40km today. He had tried to get into the albergue this afternoon but it was locked up for siesta. He was at the door with a couple of cyclists and they phoned the hospitalier who told them that they were full. This is terrible service as there was only seven of us staying there. He got a room at a pension instead, and it had a microwave for only a few Euros more. For our meal, Moira had soup and I tried the pasta salad to start then we both had pork fillets and chips, finishing with ice cream and cream caramel. While we were eating it was raining heavily again but we managed to get back to the albergue between showers.

 

The hospitalier gone 'off duty' at 5pm and left instructions that if anyone goes out to lock the door, we were all issued with keys. If anyone arrived late there was no way to get in, so we knew when we returned there wouldn't be any new arrivals, so we had the small six bedded dorm to ourselves. We both had single beds, very comfortable and slept very well.

 

 

 

Via de la Plata

Sunday 15 April 2012

Day 19

 

Banos de Montemayor to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. 32km

 

It turned out not too badly here, we did have privacy and were able to have breakfast in the seclusion of our small dorm and not disturb anybody. We were packed up and on our way without seeing any other sign of life in the albergue. It was 7am and still a bit dark as we searched for the way through the narrow lanes of the old town to the Camino. After a few wrong turns and asking directions we were climbing up the 'paved' Roman road to a col between two high peaks. Not far away we could see lorries on the motorway slowly grinding their way up the steep incline as well. This climb took us to an altitude of over 900 metres and we were walking at 'Munro' level nearly all day.

 

When we set out it was cold but there wasn't a wind blowing so it was still comfortable. But as we got to the top of the col the wind picked up and it was freezing. I had socks on my hands but they were still frozen and numb, we stopped and put on our ponchos to protect us from the wind chill; this did help and even though it was warmer when the sun came out we still kept them on all day, it was absolutely bitter. Once over the col we had left the province of Extremadura and had entered Castilla y Leon but it got colder. At that time Stefan,

who dined with us last night, caught up and we walked together for a while, he was astonished at us walking in shorts in such cold conditions, we said it was supposed to be sunny Spain.

 

From the col the route dropped down into a beautiful wooded valley then started a long climb up the other side to the village of Calzada de Bejar, where we had hoped for a coffee stop but there was nothing open. We met Stephan there who had pulled ahead and had already been in search for a bar, unsuccessfully. We had a break anyway on the church steps for an apple which we managed to buy yesterday in a supermarket in Banos. We didn't hang about too long in the near Arctic conditions.

 

To the next town of Valverde de Valdelacasa, it was 9km and it was pleasant walking on a nice flat gravel path that stretched straight in front of us, it was a Roman road of course, with what looked like the original milestones not the replicas. I wasn't feeling very happy, my hands were so cold it was difficult to take photographs and the cold wind didn't ease up even with the sun coming out. When we reached the tow it looked dead with no sign of a bar or life. We were nearly through and out the other end when we came to one, Stefan was on his way out as we went in. It didn't look much of a place, the Bar Jose, but it had a pot bellied stove belting out heat and we gathered around it with our coffee and a hamburger. The woman was very friendly and was another that made a comment about our shorts and bare legs; 'sin pantaloon'. She insisted in putting her 'bar stamp' on our credentials before we set off and wished us 'Buen Camino'

 

We were both feeling so much better after our hot drink and food, and we're able to stride out strongly up a tarred lane for the few kilometres to Valdelacasa, where we were going to stop there for another coffee but the trail didn't go into the village,so we gave it a miss and pushed on the last 10km on a nice level track to our destination of Fuenterroble and the albergue. It was a church refugio and when we went in Stefan was at a big table with others where they were having a huge meal together. We asked for the albergue and the hospitaliser led us through to another building with the dorm. The Danish couple who we haven't seen since Caceres were there and we got two bottom bunks beside them. They didn't know about a kitchen or eating or anything,and as the other people in the dorm were having siesta we decided to go out for a coffee at a bar.

 

On the way out we looked into the room where Stephan was eating and the hospitalier dragged us in, sat us down at the table and proceed to supply us with soup, ribs, salad, cheese, pie, an orange and a cup of coffee. Stefan said that he had just come up from the dorm to get his card stamped and he was plied with food as well. We got the impression that this is repeated later for dinner. After all this food was cleared away others arrived, the French couple who went to Olivia the other day, a few other familiar faces and from the dorm the Danish couple and the grumpy French Iron Man; they had all missed out on a great spread.

 

We were kicked out of the dining room while they cleaned and we went back to the dorm and under a cover to keep warm. Somebody said that the water in the showers wasn't very warm, so we did without. Later I wandered over to the dining room again where there was a warm log fire burning and I was able to make coffee in the kitchen. We sat there and read until 8:00 when the hospitalier and his assistant arrived with loads more of the same as we had for lunch. All the French late arrivals were there and Stefan was there for seconds as well as us. I don't know what happened to our Danish friends but they missed out yet again. I haven't eaten so much in a long time, all this walking has me permanently hungry; I hope I'm not putting on any weight.

 

My views on efficiency.

 

A well lubricated machine or engine runs smoothly and efficiently without any hassle or excessive use of energy. A good hospitalier or warden if he runs his albergue efficiently will not require to expend much time or energy. The church albergue at Fuenterroble is a

perfect example; the hospitalier didn't bother giving us instruction in a language he knew we didn't understand. As soon as we arrived he indicated to follow him to the dorm where he pointed to the beds, triplet and showers then left us to get on with it. Later he happily supplied food for lunch and dinner and all this was for a donation. As regards registering and credential stamping everyone filled their names etc in the visitors book and stamped their own cards. I don't know about the others but we were extremely happy and satisfied. Compare this with a few other places we have stayed with their rules and regulations that the warden has to recite in a foreign tongue before you are allowed to get to your bed which must first be allocated.

 

Anyone reading this blog and intending to walk the Via de la Plata be sure to spent a night at the albergue in Fuenterroble. If you are looking for an excellent hospitality and Christian spirit you will find it there.