Returning home

We spent another three days in Finnesterre, relaxing, reading and just having a lazy time after our strenuous Camino. Moira was entirely happy about doing nothing but I still had to get some exercise and went out for a run each morning, on one occasion going all the way out to the lighthouse at the point and back. On 15 May, we caught the bus which left at 7:50am and got us to Santiago two hours later. We had a wander round the old town again before catching another bus out to the airport for the plane to Madrid.

Moira at the lighthouse on Cape Finnesterre

We were flying Ryan Air and we had to get rid of the gas container for our little cooker and the big knife Moira had for preparing our meals. Also to avoid baggage charges we had to reduce the size of our rucksacks by eating up all the food we had and strapping them up tightly in order for them to fit through the frame that gauges the size of anything that is taken as hand luggage. With a lot of trial and error we got them down to size and had no further problems. The flight to Madrid was only an hour and we were soon on a bus again heading for the city centre. The plan was to spend a day here sightseeing.

Somebody left their boots at Finnesterre!

The hotel we had booked into was cheap and in the city centre. We found the reason it was so cheap later that night, when the noise outside went on until about 3:00am. We hardly slept at all. Neither did we have any facilities to make a cup of coffee, the gas container had been ditched; we didn’t have anything to revive us. We did have breakfast at a café, but you get a thimble full of coffee and a piece of toast for E3. Madrid itself was a beautiful city with magnificent buildings, palaces and churches. To see everything we took one of the open topped bus tours that go round all the important spots and attractions with a commentary in English. The ticket lasted all day and we were able to jump on and off as often as we liked. We spent the morning touring with the bus then in the afternoon we walked around the route to get a closer look at things.

City Gate Madrid

I thought that I would be able to pick up a gas container for the cooker easily in the city but it turned out to be a mission. We asked at different shops and also the tourist information office, after a lot of searching we were eventually lucky at a mountaineering shop in a narrow side street. Now we were able to get some coffee when back at the hotel which got us back to life, this was followed with a nice Indian curry at a restaurant we discovered on our earlier wanderings.

After another noisy and sleepless night we packed up and headed for the railway station for the train to Sevilla. We had found out that if we purchased a seniors card for over ‘60’s’ at E5 each we would get 40% discount on the rail fare. This meant that we could get to Sevilla for E100, it was still more expensive than the bus but it only took two hours against six. The only problem we discovered with the train was that they were doing airline type security checks, and our bags had to go through a X-ray machine. They wouldn’t allow the gas canister and I had to hand it over, after all the trouble obtaining it. Strangely they didn’t query a knife we had bought yesterday and was in Moira’s bag ??

Real Madrid stadium

At Sevilla we settled at the bus station for an hour’s wait for our connection to Conil. We had prepared sandwiches and a flask of coffee before leaving this morning and sat on a bench to have them while waiting. A young guy sat beside us, he was English, and we got talking; he boasted that he had just completed a long distance walk up north, the Camino Frances to Santiago. We then proceeded to deflate his ego by telling him that we ‘oldies’ had done the much longer Via de la Plata’. When we reached Conil we had a walk to La Rosaleda campsite and it was now very warm. I was somewhat apprehensive about the campervan but it alright and even the batteries were still well charged. We decided to book in for an extra day here to recharge ‘our batteries’ after two sleepless nights, before driving home.

Plaza Mayor Madrid

At the nearby supermarket we restocked the ‘van with food to keep us going until we got to Cardiff. We had intended to take it easy for the drive back and spend the odd day or two at a few nice spots on the way north. This changed when after a lovely first day it began to rain, and it continued for three days. What made it worse was that they were experiencing a heat wave in Britain at the time and it was forecast to continue for some time. We decided to push on and get back as quickly as possible. We reached the port of Calais in four days where we parked overnight on the quay, ready to get on the ferry to Dover first thing in the morning.

We reached Cardiff on Thursday 24 May. Margaret was looking well and there is still at least 10 days before the baby is due. We spent the week-end with them but decided to go away for another long distance walk which was close by, the Cotswold Way, and come back closer to the time. If it decided to arrive earlier we weren’t far away and could get back in a few hours.

Olympic torch through Cardiff

Over the week-end in Cardiff the Olympic Torch relay passed through. It went along a street close to where Margaret and Justin live, so we strolled down to have a look. We waited with a large crowd spread along the pavements for about 45 minutes for the event. There were more police than anything else. They passed along in cars, vans, on bicycles and on horseback, I thought in these austere times they were making cuts to the police force, obviously not yet. When the guy did appear with the torch it was a bit of an anticlimax, he was there and gone in a matter of seconds, you had to be quick to get a photograph. After that all there was nothing left but to head home again. I think the description that springs to mind is ‘non event’. The next morning I was running the time trial at the park in Cardiff; while I was running Margaret got talking to one of the organisers and it turned out he had taken part in the torch relay. He had the torch in his car and Margaret got a photograph with him holding the torch. 

Margaret doing the Olympic relay?

                 

Day 46

Finnesterre

Diary 12 May 2012

Day 46

 

 

 

Our walking wasn't quite over we still had to get out to the lighthouse at the point, Cape Finisterre. Moira made sandwiches and I filled the flask with coffee, we would have lunch out there. It was 10:30am when we started and the weather was great, it was very warm and when walking up the long climb out to the point we realised how lucky we had been with the colder conditions, even very cold at times, when on the Camino, it would have been a lot worse struggling in the excessive heat that was beginning now all over Spain. It was a nice easy stroll for us especially not having a heavy pack on our backs. It only took about 45 minutes to get to the end of the peninsula and we sat on the rocks below the lighthouse where we enjoyed the view out over the ocean to the 'ends of the earth'. As traditional, there were lots of abandoned boots and shoes scattered over the rocks, and the remains of fires where again obeying tradition perigrinos had burned their clothing.

 

It was still too early for our picnic so we made our way back to have it beside the harbour in town. On the way the little church on the hill before the town was open for a bus load of tourist that were heading for the cape. We took advantage and went in for a look around. It was just a small church but had a couple of nice small stained-glass windows, we also were lucky and got a stamp on our credentials which are now nearly full with the reminders of our various stopping points. At the harbour we found a bench and watched the boats in the marina while enjoying our sandwiches and coffee in the now very hot sunshine.

 

It was after 1:00pm when we headed up to the hostel again. Moira collected the iPad and went in search of a bar with a WiFi link, while I made my way with a cup of coffee to the albergue gardens where I stripped off and did some work on my tan. When Moira got back she said there was a message on Facebook from Dave Calaghan, a guy we met when we previously did the Camino Frances. He was doing it again and was now halfway to Santiago. Moira told him on email that we had just finished and where we were. By this time I had been lying in the sun for nearly an hour and getting a little burnt and hot, I decided I wanted a swim to cool off. We went over the hill to the beach and Moira paddled her feet while I slowly made my way into the very cold Atlantic. As usual once I got under it wasn't so bad and I managed to stay in for about fifteen minutes. I felt the benefit of the refreshing and invigorating cold salt water and the fun diving under the breaking surf.

 

It wasn't long until dinner when we got back, and it was a pizza with salad tonight, followed again by strawberries but this time with ice cream. Once the washing up was done we went through to the lounge to read. The intention was to go out later to watch the sunset but I feel asleep on the chair and decided to get to bed early. I should have forced myself to stay up as now after my snooze I wasn't tired and didn't sleep very well, and the noise later on from the bar nearby didn't help either.

Day41 to Day 45

Via de la Plata

Monday 7 May 2012

Day 41

 

Rest day in Santiago

 

Before starting the Via de la Plata I had run for 100 consecutive days, after that it has been 40 days walking in a row. Today was the first rest day I've had since last December. We had a sort of a long lie-in, I was wakened as usual before 6:00 am but there was no jumping up to get away just settling back with a cup of tea and reading in bed.

 

It was nearly 10:00 am when we went out, heading down to the shopping mall that was near the albergue where we stayed the time we walked the French route. It was beginning to rain as we reached the shopping centre and managed to get under cover before getting too wet. There was a WiFi zone in the mall and we were able to sit down and check our email, post my blog and download the newspaper. Our next stop was the supermarket in the basement where we bought a barbecued chicken and ingredients for salad to have for dinner in our room tonight. We weren't paying E27 for hamburger and chips again. When the shopping was finished it was still raining so it was on to the Internet again. Moira arranged accommodation for us in Madrid where we fly there on the 15th of the month. We have booked to fly with Ryan Air when we return after the next stage of our walk, to Finisterre, which starts tomorrow.

 

Our intention this morning was to make it back to the cathedral in time for the peregrinos service but when we started back the rain was lashing down. Even though we had our ponchos with us we were soaked and went back to the room to dry off and have lunch instead. We had been to the mass before and it's all in Spanish, all you wait to hear and understand is when the priest says 'two people from Scotland starting from Sevilla' in his list of those who finished yesterday. So we didn't think we were missing much.

 

Late in the afternoon the rain had eased and we went out to an Internet cafe. We had to check-in on-line for our Madrid flight and printed off our boarding passes. It took about fifteen minutes and together with the printing cost only 69 cents, I don't know how this business survives on these prices. The rain was pouring when we came out from the cafe so it was back to the room where we later had our meal of chicken and salad followed by strawberries and yoghurt.

 

We went out again about 8:00pm, the newspapers that we downloaded this morning had 'frozen', so we looked for a bar with WiFi. We managed to download them again and I sent an email to the 'Daily Telegraph' telling them what I thought of their system that we are paying for. On the way back we bought some cap badges and a little waymark plaque as souvenirs of our successful pilgrimage.

 

It's off again walking tomorrow, the weather forecast says we will have another two days of rain then on Thursday it will be sunny and very warm. We have become used to the rain but it would be nice to get some of the expected Spanish climate.

 

Camino Finisterre

Tuesday 8 May 2012

Day 42

 

Santiago to Negreira. 22km.

 

It was a really horrible day, it had rained all night and it was still coming down when we left at 8:00 from Santiago. It was wet for all of our walk though not lashing, it saved that until the afternoon when we were comfortably settled in the albergue at Negreira. Some of the peregrinos arriving then were soaking and dripping wet and ready for a hot shower. I suppose we were lucky and only had to suffer a continuous drizzle.

 

It was another case of a very nice route through quiet country lanes and woodland paths, which would have been much improved in dry and warm conditions. We had been walking for about an hour when an Irish girl caught up with us and joined us, chatting for a while. She had completed the French route and enjoyed it so much she said she couldn't stop walking. In two hours we reached the village of Ventosa and there was a bar open, a number of other peregrinos were already having their break there. We had coffee and the barman added a plate with cake, to go with our drink, it still only cost E2.20, big difference to the prices in Santiago. A woman who was there recognised us, the Scots couple in shorts; she remembered us from away back on Day 14 of the Via de la Plata at the albergue next to the reservoir at Alconeter. She was a strong walker and with her husband had finished on May 1, when we were still only at Ourense with 110km to go. They had already walked round by Muxia to Finisterre and were now on their way back to Santiago, she was sick of the rain and glad to be getting finished today.

 

Shortly after leaving Ventosa there was a long fairly steep hill. It went up through the woods on a wet muddy track that never seemed to reach the top. When it eventually came out on to the tarred road it still went up, to the village of Carballo at the top. As we climbed the forest track there had been seats at intervals for resting on a hot tiring day, but although it was still tiring it wasn't a day for sitting down in the rain. Once over the top it was downhill near enough to the finish, but even with the rain I had to stop to take photographs as we crossed the Rio Tambre by the Ponte Maceira. It was a beautiful little village with this 13th century stone bridge with five arches.

 

It wasn't quite downhill to the albergue as the town of Negreira was on a hill and we had a steep climb to get there. I recognised the town from when we walked here before and we passed under a lovely archway at the far end of the town to get to the albergue. There were only one or two other people there, so no hold ups getting registered. The woman must have thought we were too old to climb the stairs to the dorm and put us in the disabled accomodation next to the toilets. It was just a two double bunk room and we took the bottom ones.

 

The first priority was lunch, and while Moira made some soup I prepared the coffee. Once we were fed it was them a nice hot shower. I didn't go out again but later in the afternoon Moira walked back into the town to get some stuff at the supermarket. She got vegetables to go with the chicken we had left from yesterday to make a lovely curry for dinner, she also got strawberries again which was a delicious sweet with yoghurt.

 

Unsurprisingly there are not a lot of disabled people doing the strenuous walking of the Camino so we didn't have to share our special dorm with anyone else. Any other peregrinos arriving were put upstairs in the normal dorm. The other people in the albergue were a lot younger than we had seen on the Via de al Plata, they were obviously on a time limit for their holiday as they were comparing the distances they walk each day to get finished on their tight schedule. Most were doing 40km a day, some up to 50km. Another thing everybody was doing was to use the hot air hand drier in the toilets to dry their clothes. It was surprising that it was working, they aren't normally, but I followed suit and got my socks more or less dry. Probably when the municipality get the bill for the electricity they will then turn them off.

 

It was nearly 10:00 pm when we got to bed tonight and it was nice and peaceful in our own room, no snoring etc to keep us awake. It was actually very warm, there must have been some hidden heating system and I had to get up during the night to open window.

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Wednesday 9 May 2012

Day 43

 

Negreira to Santa Marina. 21km.

 

When we left at 8:00am there seemed to be a break in the clouds and it was looking brighter over to the west. We thought it was promising to be a good day, it didn't turnout that way. Shortly after we started the sky just turned the slate grey all over they we are becoming used to and the rain started again. It wasn't to bad at first and after climbing a long steep hill we were feeling very warm and took off our fleeces, our ponchos keeping us warm enough.

 

For the first two hours until we had a stop for coffee at a bar in A Pena, it was a delightful route through woodland and forest trails. Underfoot it wasn't so good, it was very wet and after trying to avoid mud and puddles our shoes and socks got sodden, so we just waded through the water which in places was a fast flowing steam rather than a footpath. It was a relief when we reached the village and the bar for a lovely big cup of 'cafe con leche'. The woman there spoke English and said the forecast was for rain until Friday, I thought our prediction from the computer had it sunny tomorrow, we will wait and see.

 

After our break the route deteriorated as well as the weather. It was a lot of road walking and the rain got heavier with the wind getting stronger and colder. I had thought about stopping to get my fleece out to put on again but I was wet underneath from condensation and I didn't want to get wetter by taking off my poncho to put on my fleece so we must soldiered on. Even when the arrows took us on to farm tracks it was now open country with little shelter from trees and the wind was blowing a gale, whipping our ponchos up and soaking our shorts. It was becoming a very miserable experience. There was a private albergue attached to a bar on our list at Maronas which was just 20km walking today, that was enough in these conditions and we decided to call it a day there. Unfortunately the bar or the albergue wasn't in this village and we had to dig out the list and the Cicerone In the rain with a lot of argument and shouting to try to find the place. We eventually had to stop a car in a deserted village, Santa Marina,to ask directions before eventually arriving there, cold, soaked and frustrated but thankful of some shelter at last.

 

The woman behind the 'Bar Antelo' seemed confused about what we wanted but eventually she showed us to the dorms in a building next door. We were the only ones there and got the bottoms bunks in a small room with just the two double bunks, upstairs there were more beds and another toilet. We stripped out of our wet clothes and had a shower before lunch, some hot soup and dunking bread. Later more people arrived, German and Swiss and all went upstairs, they must have got all their gear in their rucksacks soaked, going by the amount of stuff they had to hang out on the line, the rain had gone off and there was a good drying breeze blowing.

 

We went up to the bar late in the afternoon for a drink, it was much warmed there, the hostel had no heating and had a damp feeling about it. More people arrived while we were in the bar, I don't know where they had walked from to be now getting finished at nearly 5:00pm. When we returned to the dorm the two top bunks were now taken and a girl was using the sofa in the lounge for a bed, the one she was allocated was damp according to her.

 

Dinner was at 7:00pm and we got to the bar a little earlier. We were sitting at a table waiting for our meal when the waitress took the table and joined it with another two, it was to be a communal meal with the other peregrinos. That meant everything had to be shared out between ten people, the food was alright but the wine ran out quickly and the waitress was reluctant to get more, even though we offered to pay extra. The attitude of the staff was as if the customers were an imposition and plates and food were just dumped in front of you. When it came to the sweet, she produced tubs of yoghurt, Moira told her she wanted ice cream, this was a no-no for some reason and after some strong words of displeasure Moira stomped out. It was another example of staff with no interest in the needs of the customer and of the business, witnessing this fairly often in our travels through Spain.

 

Back at the albergue I had intended to sit up and read a book I had found but the sofa was now occupied by the girl worried about damp beds. So it was off to bed early instead. It was not a good night, the guy above me was a snorer and it wasn't until late into the night that I remembered about ear plugs. I slept better after putting them in.

 

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Thursday 10 May 2012

Day 44

 

Santa Marina to Cee. 31km.

 

What a difference the weather makes to a good walk. If we had had to suffer the driving rain and winds of yesterday especially over the high moorland track at the end of the day, from Hospital to Cee, it would have been an absolute misery. Whereas it was the perfect conditions for striding out and enjoying a long day through the best scenery on the Santiago to Finisterre stretch. As we left at 7:30am there was cloud about, but it was light and broken, on the horizon the sky was clear and blue allowing us to see a sun rise for the first time in weeks. It must have been a fine warm night as the road was dry and when we got to the off-road parts these were remarkable water free as well. It didn't become a hot sunny day with lots of blue sky and on occasions some dark clouds had us worried but it stayed dry all day, hurrah!

 

We started out in our tights which we abandoned in the afternoon, but the ponchos were packed away, hopefully for good. It was much freer walking and there was certainly a spring in our steps. We were also glad to be away from the albergue which turned out to be a very depressing place, with the cold and damp atmosphere and annoying people. I got up at 6:00, went to the kitchen and made the coffee. Moira joined me and brought through all our gear. After breakfast we packed up in the kitchen and were soon on our way, without disturbing anybody.

 

Our first two hours walking were along mainly country lanes. It was easy going, a few hills to get up but nothing serious and we were enjoying it. There was a large reservoir that could be seen down in the valley as our route took the contours round the hillside above. It was the Embalse de Fervenza, the level was very high after all the recent rains. The route crossed the Rio Xallas by the Ponte Olveira and there was a new albergue there. It was open and had a restaurant where we took advantage and had coffee with toast and jam. It also had WiFi and this enabled us to download again the newspapers which are still freezing after a few hours. This hostel looked very nice indeed, and if the weather had been more favourable we could have comfortably made it here yesterday and I think had a pleasanter time.

 

It was only about 6km to Hospital where the route splits, one way to Muxia where we went on our previous walk, the other direct to Finisterre where we were heading. There was a bar there, advertising itself as the last for 15km, we satisfied ourselves with just a coffee even though the women was implying that we wouldn't make it to the next 15km without food here. It wasn't that bad as we are always prepared and there was a lovely stopping place at a church, Santuario de Nosa Señora das Neves, with picnic tables that we had our flask of coffee and cheese sandwiches. We met a Swedish couple there and they told us about a pilgrimage in Sweden, St Olaf's Way, that's another one will have to take a look at.

 

From the church and picnic spot it was a climb up to a beautiful moorland path, the views were outstanding. The surrounding hills now crystal clear now the mist and rain had gone, and the windmills that ran along a ridge were practically motionless. We expect to see the ocean as we crested every hill, only to have the track continue over the heather covered moorland to another hill. It then appeared suddenly as the path dropped sharply away before us, the town of Cee with its houses ringed around the top of a deep inlet cut into the high cliffs. It was the first we had seen of the sea since leaving Conil six weeks ago. It was a steep drop to get down again to sea level and the path was rough and rocky, so it was slow going. When we reached the tarred road there was a signpost saying 150m to the 'O'Bordon Albergue', we decided to take a look. After our experience of last night our intension was to go to an hostal or pension with a double room but this turned out to be a '5 Star' albergue. It looked brand new, tiled throughout, luxury toilets and showers and the dorm was big but the bunks were well spread out and each one had a locker to stow your gear. We were the only people there but later just one guy turned up and slept at the other end, so if he did snore he was too far away to hear him. There was a washing machine and Moira got all our clothes cleaned and was able to put them outside in now bright warm sunshine. Later Moira found a supermarket and used the beautiful kitchen to make a longed for chicken curry, and yet again strawberries. What a change from last night.

 

Tonight we were able to sit on comfortable chairs in the lounge and read. I still had the book I picked up at the last place and we had a few days of the 'Telegraph' that we downloaded earlier today. It was just after 9:00 when we decided to get to bed, we were both tired after quite a long walk today.

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Friday 11 May 2012

Day 45

 

Cee to Finisterre. 14 km.

 

It was our usual time of 6:30am when we were up and had breakfast. The other person staying had the breakfast supplied by the albergue but we make our own, having cereal and yoghurt rather than just a piece of toast. Our fellow pilgrim was from Montreal in Canada, and had walked from Le Puy in France. He started at the end of February and reminded us that the weather was surprisingly excellent then, the time when they also had a heat wave in the UK for a month. It deteriorated after that and he said there was a month of nearly continuous rain. Even though we were having sunny warm weather our washing hadn't quite dried overnight but there was a tumbler drier for another E3, so Moira had everything clean and fresh as we began the final stage of our marathon trek.

 

It was a bit overcast as we set out, and there were a few spots of rain over the next couple of hours but it remained dry and now very warm. The route varied from some road walking to lovely gravel tracks up the hillsides as we had to cross a few ridges and cliff tops that ran down towards the sea. Cee was a fairly large town and had some industry, small ship building yards, fishing and a large harbour. It was a long stretch through the still quiet streets before we cleared Cee and into the next village of Corcubion, a small seaside holiday resort. We were now on the opposite side of the large inlet and the route where we had descended from the moorland top could be seen directly across the water and also our hostel for last night on the slopes above Cee. It was a wonderful panorama with some high mountains in the distance adding to the picture.

 

We stopped after our normal two hours finding a convenient wall to sit on at the beach in Estorde. We ate an apple and watched the Atlantic surf break on to the golden sands. From there we climbed up to the cliff tops again and there was a pleasant stroll along a path lined with bright yellow gorse and purple heather. From there we had our first view of Finisterre curving along the edge of the peninsula where at the far end the top of the lighthouse could just be seen. Down at sea level again a crazy-paved path took us all the way into Finisterre. It had been the shortest walk of the pilgrimage but one of the nicest, with lovely ocean vistas and good paths taking us high and enhancing these views.

 

In Finisterre it was argument time again as Moira had lost the leaflet advertising the albergue we wanted to go to. At the bus stop all the peregrinos were waiting for transport to Santiago, some we recognised but couldn't assist with whereabouts of the hostel. The locals were even less assistance and couldn't even direct us to the tourist information office, my attempts at pronouncing our needs in a sort of Spanish got a woman taking us to the local pharmacy. Eventually with a lot of patience on Moira's part and more bad temper on mine we found the place. The guy was still doing the cleaning but there was a double room available, we settled in the kitchen for a cup of coffee until he was finished. There was an American girl there from Seattle and later a woman from Cape Town joined us, so we were able to chat about South Africa.

 

The room we got was fine and we would have some privacy for a change. We were low on food supplies so headed into town to the supermarket and stocked up for the four days we intend staying here. It was soup and bread for lunch then we went to the gardens opposite the albergue to sit in the sun and read. It was good that

later Moira was able to cook and we could eat what and when we liked, and it was a lot, lot cheaper.

 

After dinner we went for a walk down to the beach which was about ten minutes over the hill. It was a pleasant warm evening and we paddled our feet in the ocean, the water was cold but if it is as sunny tomorrow as this afternoon I will be having a swim. Everybody else was out when we returned, probably for their meal, and we got to bed. We didn't hear anybody coming in but there was noise from a pub nearby and I had to put in earplugs to block out the sound and to get to sleep.

 

Day 35 to Day 40

Via de la Plata

Tuesday 1 May 2012

Day 35

 

Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense. 20 km.

 

If the past few days have rated some of the best walks then today's must be the worst of the Via de la Plata. It was virtually all on the tar road through one village after the other, A Pousa, Salgueiros, Veirada, Pereiras, Castellana, San Ciprian das Vinas, and Seixalbo before reaching Ourense. All the communities were much the same obviously dormitory towns zto commute into the city of Ourense. There were only a few interesting highlights the reflections in the Rio Arnoya that we crossed leaving Xunqueira, the storks nest built high on the old factory chimney at Castellana and the lovely walled lane into Ourense when the camino did manage to leave the road. Other than that it was a miserable route and especially on the outskirts of the city there was an industrial area to go through followed by the usual line of car sales/showrooms that seem to occur on entering any big town or city.

 

We didn't rush away this morning as the plan was to stay at a hostal tonight in Ourense. Everyone had left while we were still at breakfast and it was after 8:00am by the time were on our way. We stopped outside the bar where we dined and got on line. It was a WiFi zone and we were given the password last night. I published my latest blog and Moira downloaded the newspaper, then we were off. When we reached Ourense we had to change our plan, there didn't appear to be any hostals or pension about in the city centre, but we saw arrows to the albergue so followed them instead. All along he route from Sevilla it has been difficult to find a shop never mind a supermarket in any of the villages but nearly all the villages this morning had a Spar or a small grocery store. Unfortunately being the May Day holiday not one of them was open. Coming into Ourense we did find a few shops open and managed to get bread and picked up a barbecued chicken for dinner. It was quite a distance up a long hill to the albergue but it was worth it, the dorms were nice and big with plenty of beds, we had no trouble getting bottom bunks even though all people who left this morning were already there. Later we moved to another room when we found that the Frenchman who snores was next to us, there was plenty of space in this another dorm as well.

 

Once we were showered Moira made soup in another well equipped kitchen. About 4:00 we went for a walk around Ourense. We tried to find the route out for tomorrow but got lost in a maze of narrow streets and lanes. Eventually we came across a large shopping mall and thought maybe that was where the locals went on a holiday. It was nearly empty as well, all the stores were closed, only restaurants doing business. We had an ice cream at MacDonald's. The balcony outside the mall overlooked the Rio Mino that flowed through the city, I got some nice photographs of the bridges. When we made our way back we found the Camino shell symbols in the pavement on Rua do Paseo, so we achieved one objective. This street led to the cathedral, San Martin, which was open. It was well worth the visit though a bit dimly lit. The columns and the arched roof were magnificent and we did spot the statue of the seated figure of Santiago with shell around the base that was mentioned in the Cicerone guide.

 

One thing we didn't achieve when out was to find any shops open, it must have only been only a half day the ones open this morning. Moira was looking for vegetables for a curry using the barbecued chicken she bought, instead we had roast chicken with rice savoured with some curry powder. It was delicious. The only faces missing as we had dinner were Suzanna and Almont, we had seen them in the cathedral this evening but they hadn't shown up at the albergue.

 

Tonight we weren't bothered by snoring but instead by a group of cyclist who arrived late then sat in the dining area talking until nearly midnight. I was wakened by them but pushed my ear plugs in tighter and was alright but Moira told me in the morning that she couldn't sleep for the noise and got up and gave them a piece of her mind. They got the message and it stopped.

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 2 May 2012

Day 36

 

Ourense to Cea. 21km

 

 

As we were coming into Ourense yesterday Moira remarked that the hills behind the city didn't look very big. I said that they were big enough if we have to go straight up to cross them. I didn't realise how prescient I was.

 

When we got up this morning we didn't bother being quiet and pussy foot around. The cyclists were having a lay in after their late night and we weren't bothered about disturbing them. When we left there was no problem finding the route after sussing it out yesterday afternoon. On the way we called in at the other big church in the centre, Santa Eufemia, it was very impressive on the outside with a large bell shaped tower and lovely carving on the stonework but inside it was plain with no interesting features. We just had a quick glance round then got on to following the route out of the city. We crossed over the Rio Mino by the old multi-arched bridge and through the outskirts to the N120. It was then along this busy highway for 2km to the village of Quintela where we took a minor road and met the hill I unfortunately predicted. The book said it was 1.5km long but it felt much more, maybe it was because it went nearly straight up all the way. It was a killer and Moira was back to her old ways of stopping every few minutes for a rest,even with the aid of her inhaler. I had to cajole and bully her to keep her moving and it was a relief for both of us when we reached Castro de Beira at the top. Someone had conveniently put a bench on the 'summit' and we took full advantage, along with a refreshing drink of cold spring water from a fountain close by.

 

From now on the poor route of yesterday and the earlier part today were things of the past as we picked up the narrow walled lanes and leafy by-ways of previous lovely sections. It made its way through wooded countryside and the noisy busy traffic was a distant memory. We were on the Camino that we had become used to again. There was the call of the cuckoo that we had been hearing all the way from Sevilla added now by the distinctive sound of the woodpecker, unseen but heard as he drilled his way into the bark of some tree. What we didn't like was the weather, what had started out alright changed to showers and it was on and off with our ponchos and rucksack covers all morning. The problem now was that the temperature was much higher and we were warm, especially in the ponchos and while still wearing fleeces. Eventually we took off our fleeces and it was pleasantly cool, such a difference from the freezing cold of a few days ago in the mountains and snow.

 

We only had one stop today other than the forced 'pit-stop' at the top of the 'mountain'. It was at the village of Reguengos where we had coffee from our prepared flask. When we finished at Cea it was raining heavily, continuing through the afternoon. The only others at the albergue were our friends, Suzanna and Almont, they said they found a hostal to stay last night in Ourense. Moira went out to find a shop or supermarket before they closed for siesta while I found us bunks and had a shower. When Moira came back she was loaded with bags of food, she said other peregrinos who were in the supermarket she had discovered looked open eyed at the a amount she had purchased, it was like a weekly shop to some of them.

 

There was a good kitchen at the hostel and we had soup and bread for dunking for lunch. We didn't go out in the afternoon, the weather was miserable, so we spent the time cataloging and updating our photographs of the Camino. Later when the rest had gone out for dinner we had ours, a salad with the rest of the chicken from yesterday followed by strawberries and yoghurt, a lot better than we would have got at the bar. The albergue was getting busy, a lot of cyclists again and some people starting their pilgrimage here, it was just 100km to go, the minimum requirement to get a certificate and atonement for your sins!!

 

We were in bed early, before the others returned from dinner in the bar. When people began coming upstairs to the dorm the lights switched on and off every minute and wakened me. I realised they were on a photo-electric switch and every time somebody used the stairs they came on. The problem was that the design of the place was open plan, so the dorm was lit up like Blackpool illuminations. This wasn't so bad as people were going to bed but when I got up in the middle of the night to go to the loo which was downstairs the lights came on, while in the toilet they went off and then on again as I climbed the stairs back to the dorm. In the morning most of the peregrinos were complaining, that and the snoring doesn't help in getting a good night's sleep.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Thursday 3 May 2012

Day 37

 

Cea to Castro Dozon. 14km

 

With the disturbance of the brilliant lighting system I didn't sleep very well and got up at 6:00am. I went to the kitchen and made myself a large cup of coffee, sitting quietly until Moira came down about half an hour later. We had breakfast and quickly packed up for an early start, 7:30am today. There are two routes out of Cea to Castro Dozon, the official way of about 14km, or the alternative through the town of Oseira which has a Cistercian monastery but is 20km. We chose the shorter option. Cicerone wasn't very clear about which way to leave Cea for either route but two young guys told us to follow them and came to a point where the waymark had arrows going right or left, take your pick.

 

It was a pleasant enough walk for the first hour, even though it was mainly on tar over minor roads. Then it began to rain, we didn't think at first it was going to come to anything but the sky turned completely grey and it came down in torrents. Now we were walking off-road through wooded countryside which would have been very pleasant in dry sunny conditions and the paths were running streams. Initially we tried to keep our feet dry by skipping around puddles but eventually they were soaking and we just waded through everything.

 

The plan had been to do about 28km today but with the horrible weather we decided to stop at the albergue in Castro Dozon. We followed the directions and arrows which led to a house that could have been the hostel but there was no sign or name plate, and it was closed anyway. We shelter under the porch and had the coffee from the flask with an apple. The Frenchman who snores with his partner arrived, and tried the door; as if we would be standing outside in the cold and rain if it had been open!! He attempted to phone the hospitalier but no reply, so we left our rucksacks outside and headed for the bar in town. On the way we met a local who informed us that where we had gone wasn't the albergue and redirected us. Up the hill again, collect our bags and make for the right place. It didn't look very inviting, a bit like three portacabins, one for the dorms, one for the toilets and showers and another for the kitchen. But it was cold and wet so any shelter would have been welcome.

 

After showering we had soup and dunking bread again for lunch and that warmed us up. As usual when you get stranded in these places early there is nothing to do and the rain didn't help. There was a break and the sun came out briefly mid afternoon but all we did was exchange one boring room for another, in the nearby bar; at least it was much warmer. When leaving we discovered there was a small supermarket behind the pub and instead of having to wait until 8:00pm to come back here for dinner we bought a pizza and some eggs, this did our meal back at the albergue.

 

When we returned, just in time the rain was starting again, the place had filled up. It was mainly cyclists, only three other walkers had appeared, the others must have soldiered on in these monsoon conditions. Once dinner was over and still nothing to do I put some music from the iPad on, nobody seemed to mind and it cheered up the evening. It was off to bed early, dreaming that maybe tomorrow we would rediscover 'sunny Spain', and slept very well for a change.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Friday 4 May 2012

Day 38

 

Castro Dozon to Silleda. 29km.

 

I slept quite well last night, it is strange how a rough and ready arrangement of portacabins can work well. When I got up to the loo about midnight a lot of the cyclists were still up but In the kitchen cabin well away from the dorms so their talking didn't disturb anyone. Also it was very easy to slip out of the dorm quietly and over the decked area to the toilets. The only problem was that it was cold and wet, the rain still pouring down, the set-up was more congenial to hot summer conditions.

 

We were also able to move out of the dorm and over to the kitchen in the morning without disturbing the still sleeping bikers. We had breakfast and packed our bags there and away before seeing anyone except the French couple of peregrinos. The rain was off when we began but the sky was still dark and I didn't hold out much hope for a dry day. We thought about sticking to the N525 all the way and have it dry underfoot but it was a busy road and our shoes were still soaking from yesterday anyway, so we followed the yellow arrows.

 

It was good that we did keep to the actual trail because it turned out to be a fine walk. It was on some minor roads and lanes through sleepy hamlets and on gravel tracks along walled lanes. The profile was up and down, meaning that the route had drained fairly well and we didn't have a lot of puddles and streams of water to wade through like yesterday. We had mild and dry conditions for the first hour but then the rain started, it didn't seem as heavy today but it was continuous for two hours. What was peculiar was that ahead we could see bright sky and obvious dry weather but it was always out of reach and didn't get any nearer. I concluded that the clouds were dropping all their rain on us and those a few kilometre in front were enjoying a lovely sunny day.

 

At the little town of Botos de Abaixxo we missed the turning and went straight on for about half a kilometre before somebody told us we had gone wrong and redirected us. When we reached the turning the French couple who we had overtaken near the start had caught up, it was frustrating. This was the place we intended to make for yesterday but for the rain, there was supposed to be a albergue at the railway station. We saw the railway line and the station but no sign indicating a hostel. From here it was 6km to the next fair sized town of Laxe, we had enjoyed a short spell of dry walking but now the rain came in full force again.

 

When we reached Laxe the route went past the albergue, it didn't open until 1:00pm, another ninety minutes, it would have been very annoying if we had planned to stop here. Instead we were heading for the next town of Silleda but first we headed for the first bar to get out of the rain. It was called 'Ma Jose' and had been advertising with fliers posted all along the route. The huge log fire burning in the corner was a welcoming sight, two cyclists were already in front of it drying off but kindly made room for us. Once out of our ponchos and rucksacks with sat in the warmth with hot 'cafe con leche grande' and lovely ham bocadillos.

 

It was soon time to brave the elements again but it was a pleasant surprise to find the rain had gone off. I kept my poncho on, I've become superstitious in that when I take it off the rain soon begins. The route now more or less followed the N525, some parts close to it through shabby back yards of workshops, others in detours through hilly and nicely wooded countryside. Just before coming to the highway again we passed far below between the columns of the railway viaduct over the Rio Deza before using a more ancient fording of the river. This was a beautiful 10th century bridge, Ponte Taboada, and a footpath paved Roman style with huge boulders that led up the hill to the village of Taboada. Here we had a rest, my back was sore as usual in reaction to over 20km. There was only 3.5km to according to the book, but it was confusing. We could take the busy road or follow the arrows and the scenic route which was 1.5km longer. We went scenic and it turned out to be 1.5 longer than the 3.5, so it was 5km, and the rain started, and it was through what could only be described as a swamp. I was not amused and did not appreciate what would have been a delightful finish to the section on a dry warm sunny day.

 

Eventually we got to Silleda that we had seen from the road before taking our detour through the woods. It was a large place and the arrows led us to the centre. We were making for a private albergue that we picked up a card for last night. We got directions from a few locals and it turned out to be rooms above a bar but it also gave the use of a kitchen. It was a double room we got not a dorm,for only E20. It wasn't en suite but the toilet shower was opposite our room, and after we were cleaned up I made coffee in the kitchen. I gave my shoes that were covered in mud a scrub and a wash in a sink out on the veranda. I left them out to dry but it didn't look promising, the atmosphere was very damp and humid with all the rain.

 

We had dinner in the bar downstairs at 7:00pm and what a feed it was. We started with an enormous tureen of home made vegetable soup, Scottish style, we both had two big plates full and there was still half left. Next the man appeared with a huge platter of salad to go with our large pork fillets and chips. There was a sweet, a bottle of wine and coffee included for just E10 each. After that we were full, this walk was supposed to keep our weight in check, the way we've been eating a diet may be required when we finish.

 

When back in the room it was off to bed where we lay and listened to music on the iPad before getting to sleep. It was another good night's rest with no snoring or lights going on and off to disturb us.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Saturday 5 May 2012

Day 39

 

Silleda to Ponte Ulla. 20km.

 

It was another case today of a really beautiful and enjoyable trail if the weather had been dry and sunny. It wasn't as bad as some days that we have had recently, none of the showers were particularly heavy or prolonged, it was just the they were so frequent. Every time we were forced to put on our ponchos the rain would stop after a few minutes. Off they would come only for the rain to begin a little later, it was like that all through our walk. Again we were frustrated trying to work out where the clouds were moving from and to, we could see blue sky in most directions but not over us, we usually had a dark cloud overhead.

 

It was 8:45am when we set off this morning, our target was Ponte Ulla only 20km away and the book said that there were plenty of rooms at bars for accomodation rather than the town with an albergue that was 5km further on. So it was going to be an easy stroll for this section. Our shoes hadn't dried overnight so although we had dry socks to wear they soon got wet from the shoes.

 

Getting out of Silleda turned out to be very simple, the main street became the N525 which we followed for a couple of kilometres. We thought about staying on the road but when the arrows led into the countryside that was the choice our feet being wet already. Again the track just ran close to the highway at first, but soon moved away through farmland and nice wooded areas. It was a fine day at first with patches of blue sky for a change but as we approached Bandeira the rain started. After donning our ponchos I looked for a bar or somewhere to go for shelter. We ended up under the overhang of a car workshop, out of the rain we had an apple and a drink of water until the sky cleared again. While we were there an Austrian guy who stayed at the same rooms last night came past, he had left before us this morning. He was either very slow or had gone somewhere for breakfast. We overtook him later, he is slow.

 

The route was undulating, with some stiff climbs followed by knee jarring steep downhills. Now in the forested areas there were lots of eucalyptus trees standing tall straight and majestic, reminding us of our time in Australia. Coming to the small village of Dornelas it had been raining and our ponchos were still on. There was a climb to the hamlet and the sun came, we were very hot. It was time for a rest to cool off and sat on a wall at the old 12th century Romanesque church. No sooner had we settled but the rain came on again, instead of the pleasant church setting we retreated to a dismal bus shelter for a drink from the flask. It's starting to get annoying as the sky turned blue again as we sat there.

 

It was more on and off rain, far away blue skies but at least no wind as we made our way up hill and down dale through more farmland and woods with plenty of chirping birds seemingly perfectly happy with this weather. On reaching the village of Seixo we found the bar that Cicerone mentioned and it was open. It was dry and warm, there was coffee and bocadillos, we sat there for half an hour. The Austrian guy eventually got there as well, then a couple we hadn't seen for a few days, he was also Austrian but his girl friend looked oriental. I had given this pair some sugar at an albergue, from the supply I pick up at cafes and bars that they give with coffee, and he remembered. The French couple who stopped at Laxe yesterday poked their noses in the door but didn't stay, if they were heading for the next albergue at Outeiro they still had 9km to go, and having already covered 29km it was along stint for them. Moira reckoned that they had probably stuck to the road which was much shorter.

 

The last 4km for us was all downhill and very steep as the road dropped down to cross the Rio Ulla. All the way down we got magnificent views of the enormous new railway viaduct that connects the hills on either side of the river, this viaduct was designed to mimic the columns and arch of the smaller Roman bridge which runs parallel and behind the newer version. Even though it was again pouring with rain it was a must to stop and get some photographs of this extraordinary sight. Where we crossed the river was a bit further on by another old bridge which was much superior in appearance to the modern motorway version next to it. On the other side of the Rio Ulla there was a bar/restaurant/pension, Moira went in, yes there were rooms available, E24 for a double. We stopped there.

 

The room was alright, it was en suite and there was an electric heater. We got out of our wet shoes and socks, washed our dirty clothes then draped them over a chair in front of the heater to dry. After showering I made tea, Moira managed to get Tetley tea bags at the supermarket in Silleda, on the little cooker. We had more to eat to keep us going until dinner at 7:00pm. It was another enormous tureen of soup to start, this time we finished it, then it was some nice grilled fish for a change. While we were eating in the bar I could hear the TV, it was football and I only discovered when we came through to pay, that it was the FA Cup final that was on. There was only about ten minutes left to play and Chelsea were 2-1 up against

Liverpool. I watched the remainder and that was how it finished, we could have sat in the bar for our meal and seen most of the game.

 

When we got to bed the sky above the hills that we could see from our window was completely blue, not a cloud in sight. Does this promise a sunny bright day for our entrance into Santiago tomorrow. I certainly hope so.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Sunday 6 May 2012

Day 40

 

Ponte Ulla to Santiago. 20km

 

It had been raining through the night and there were still a few spots dropping when we left at about 8:00am for the final stage of our journey to Santiago. We had our ponchos on but had packed away our tights and didn't require anything on our hands, we were at the lowest altitude of the Camino and it was feeling quite mild. Last night Moira had gone to the supermarket for bread and milk, and discovered a great view point of the viaduct and Roman bridge from there, so we took a slight detour for some pictures. It was a good spot and the ancient stone structure could be seen like a reflection of the viaduct in front.

 

When we left Ponte Ulla the traffic sign said, 'Santiago 20km'. The route then took a very steep Roman style boulder paved path to climb up from the river. When we rejoined the N525 about 5 minutes later the traffic sign now said, 'Santiago 17km', that was the fastest 3km we've ever walked. The arrows soon took us away from the road to a good wide path that continued to climb through the trees. When we reached the top of the hill it was feeling very warm and the clouds had broken, it looked like being a nice day after all. There were still some wispy misty clouds hanging low down in the valley over the river and village, it made a lovely vista as the track made its way now over the ridge of the hill overlooking the valley.

 

Today's walk was similar to the previous two days, nice paths through farmland and forests of tall eucalyptus trees. The difference now was that we had fine sunny weather and that cheered us up, putting a spring in our steps, and not burdened with our ponchos. We had our first stop near a hill, Pico Sacro, for an apple and water. Cicerone suggest a detour to the top of the hill to visit a small church, Ermito de San Sebastian, we didn't take up the offer. The profile was undulating after that and still more eucalyptus trees, all standing very tall and straight. The area was now becoming more and more populated as we got closer to Santiago, and richer with some big fancy expensive looking villas.

 

At the town of Susana we had our coffee from the flask in a bus shelter, not due to rain, it was still sunny, but because it had a seat. It was now only 8.5km to go and we planned to have lunch at the Capilla de Santa Lucia, in another hour or 4km, that Cicerone recommended as a quiet sheltered spot for a final break and rest. It was anything but quiet there, a festival or fiesta was taking place. There were crowds of people and cars, food stalls and bars had been set up, while an open air service was taking place in front of the church. Also causing a great deal of noise was the banging of exploding shells and the crackle of continuous gun fire from the crest of the hill on the other side of the valley. We had been hearing these explosions all morning, now much louder, obviously something to do with these celebrations. We found a spot on a wall above a large stream where we got water to boil on the cooker for tea. We received some strange looks from those attending the service as we sat with our mugs of tea and sandwiches. While we were sitting on the wall a young lad had climb up to the top of the bell tower for some reason. As we packed up to leave he began to vigorously ring the bells, this signalled the arrival of a procession and the music of a band. They marched along the road and into the church, all the women and girls dressed in traditional costumes. The band, which was unusual by playing what sounded more like 'trad jazz' than anything Spanish, didn't enter the church but stopped playing then went off for a smoke instead. We continued for the last 4km to Santiago.

 

It was another climb for about a kilometre along a lane enclosed in a wooden frame. It was all open at this time but vines were growing up the sides and in summer these will grow over the top and create a wonderful shaded avenue. On the crest of the hill we caught our first glimpse of the towers and spires of Santiago cathedral but they disappeared as we dropped down to go through the suburbs of the city. After 1000km of, on the whole, excellent route marking and signs Santiago has nothing, the yellow arrows are non-existent and not shell sign to be seen. They don't even have a signpost directing people to the cathedral, we had to ask the way and a kind local practically took us by the hand to the magnificent cathedral.

 

Now we recognised our surroundings we started to look for someplace to stay. We went to a few pensions and hostals but the cheapest we found was E36 and it was a dump, obviously we have been spoilt with cheaper accommodation out in the rural areas. We settled for one at E39, it wasn't bad and it was ensuite. After a shower we went in search of the peregrino office where we presented our fully stamped credentials and obtained our Compostela. Before searching for place to eat we had a walk round the cathedral, it is as magnificent inside as outside with the altar front just a mass of golden metalwork and carvings. As there was a service beginning we left, the one tomorrow for the peregrinos will be enough.

 

The prices for food and drink was as bad as accomodation, we went into a bar and had a glass of 'vino tinto', red wine, it was double the price we had been paying. We found a small restaurant where we had a tuna salad between us then hamburger and chips. With a bottle of wine this came to E27, our most expensive meal yet!!

 

We got back to the room and into bed early, we've booked to stay here another night so there is plenty of time for sightseeing tomorrow.

Day 34

Via de la Plata

Monday 30 April 2012

Day 34

 

Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia. 34km.

 

Today was an anticlimax after the wonderful walking of the previous sections. It promised well when we reached the village of Soutelo Verde after 3km on the road. Getting on to a farm track we began to gradually climb out of the valley to another small village, Tamicelas, where the serious ascent began. it was called Monte Requeixal, and it was a very steep continuous climb at first on narrow rocky paths but later the track broadened out and was smoother, but still going up. About half way up we had been walking for two hours and at a flat part we found a rock to have a break. Breakfast was provided at the pension this morning, but we just had our usual and took the two magdelane cookies and fruit juice they supplied for our refreshment now. While we were sitting other peregrinos went past, not bothering with a stop, and also mountain bikers who were reduced to pushing their bikes up this steep incline. Just before we got going again the rain came on spoiling what initial looked like being a nice day. The rest of the climb was now done wearing our ponchos and when we reached the road at the top the view was disappointing with heavy cloud over the hills and the valley below misty and hazy with the falling rain.

 

It was a short distance on tar to the village of Albergueria, the site of a former pilgrim hospital, and there was an albergue there. We had a look inside but the lady was cleaning, she appeared to be grumpy and not very welcoming to out 'Ola', so we sat outside on a bench for a rest and to stow away our rain gear, it had dried up again. From Albergueria it was on a good sandy path but still climbing up to the Cross on Monte Talarino. It was supposed to be only 3km but we could see the cross on the skyline that never seemed to get any nearer and more like 5km. Once at the cross, another erected for those who died on the Camino, our guide book promised excellent views on a clear day. Unfortunately it wasn't a clear day and we stopped to get into our ponchos again as the rain poured down.

 

From the cross it was a long descent into the valley on the other side. The first section of the path was completely flooded and we had to detour across a field to avoid it. From there it was hard going even though downhill with some steep and rough conditions to negotiate with our old legs. We could see the small town of Vilar de Barrio slightly up the hillside on the far side of the valley and it was another case of never seeming to get there. When we did make the valley bottom there was an annoying climb up the tarred road to the town.

Just before reaching the town square there was a supermarket where we got bread and a packet of soup for later, for now we found a bench in the square to have lunch. We watched other peregrinos arriving, some continuing along the route others making for the bar for their lunch. We saw Suzanna and Almont make for the bar.

 

We had 15 km to go to the finish for the day and my back was playing up, Moira had given me some painkillers and it took a few kilometres walking in agony before they took effect. The route to the next village of Padrosa was back to the monotonous long straight sandy road that we thought we had left on the Plata. It went on straight as a die ahead of us then when we saw some houses and thinking we had reached civilisation again it turned right and it was another couple of kilometres until we reached the village where we were looking forward to another stop for coffee. There had been more rain and the wind had risen before we stopped and we couldn't find decent shelter. We had to make do with benches on the village square. It took ages for the water to boil on the cooker with the wind but eventually we were refreshed and ready for the last 7km.

 

The day had been much of a slog up steep rough paths with no reward of a view, difficult and wet downhills and miserable weather, but this last section of the day made up for it all. We meandered through leafy walled lanes, up to a short ridge giving lovely views of the valley and the villages scattered through it. The lanes were lined with big old trees with crocked and gnarled trunks which would present a shadowy sinister spectre if strolling at sunset. This area was much more populated and the villages a lot livelier, with a lot of renovation and refurbishment of the old cottages and houses. After the village of Quintela, Cicerone said there was 2km to go but there was a sign saying 'Albergue 1km', what joy. It was a lovely place quite modern but a lot of pilgrims were already there and we had to make do with a top and bottom bunk unit, me on top. The Frenchman who snores and the other that doesn't close doors were there before us along with some new faces. Suzanna and Almont got in late, we had passed them about 5km before the finish of the day.

 

After securing our beds we headed for a well equipped kitchen and Moira made mushroom soup from the packet we bought at the supermarket. This we had with plenty of fresh bread and were feeling normal again, especially with the refreshing hot shower we had next. At 5:00 after siesta time we walked into the town, that extra kilometre, looking for a shop for some bread and milk for tomorrow, as the shops would be closed for the May Day holiday. As we have found in Spain they like to expand their public holidays and they obviously were having this afternoon off as well, it was like a ghost town. There was one place open, the cafe/bar advertised at the albergue, and here the woman was a bit more enterprising. We asked about the time for dinner and she indicated whenever we wanted it, there were some peregrinos already having their meal. When we came back later we were immediately ushered to a table, the menu was recited and it wasn't long before a lovely meal was in front of us. That's what you want after a hard thirty plus kilometres in the hills.