THE COTSWOLD WAY

DAY 0 

Tuesday 29 May 2012

The Cotswold Way

We set off this morning for Gloucestershire for the start of our next long distance walk, the Cotswold Way. This was 100 miles or 160 kilometers from Chipping Campden to Bath. Our initial destination was the village of Hayles and the camp site at Hayles Fruit Farm where we intend to make our base to do the first half in stages by using the buses and local transport, as we have done on previous walks in Britain.

We left Cardiff after breakfast and got to the campsite just before lunch. We checked on the buses that would take us to the start but it turned out to be somewhat complicated. There was a bus at 8:40am in the morning to the village of Broadway but we couldn’t find out anything about a connection from there to Chipping Campden. We have decided to take the bus tomorrow to Broadway, check out when we got there how to continue to the start of the walk. If there was a convenient bus leaving from there, good; if not we will walk to Chipping Campden and hopefully bus back to Broadway then continue the walk from there. Broadway is on the route. If all else fails we will walk to the start from Broadway then all the way back on the trail to Hayles. Tomorrow we will see.

In the meantime we took a stroll to the main road where we would catch the bus in the morning and check how long it would take to get there. It was pleasant strolling along the walled country lane in the beautiful early summer weather. It took us 20 minutes of easy walking so we will leave after breakfast at about 8:15am and this will allow plenty of time to get there for the bus. 

Ruins of Hayles Abbey

On the way back to the campsite we stopped at the church and it was surprisingly open. It was fairly basic but there were some nice old small stained glassed windows. We thought this was the abbey that was signposted as an attraction from the main road, but further along the road we found the original actual Hayles Abbey and the remains of the church after it was demolished back in Henry VIII’s time. They wanted £4 to view the ruins, we gave it a miss. 

The campsite was quite and we had a good night's sleep in preparation for our walk.

DAY 1  Wednesday 30 May 2012

Chipping Campden to Hayles 25.2km.

The bus arrived on time at the junction with the main road. The company was Castleways and the driver was very helpful, he had plenty of time to attend to us as we were his only passengers. The bus ran from Cheltenham to Willersey but he said he would put us off at the point near Broadway where we could pick up a connection to the start of the walk. The time table for the buses to Chipping Campden on the pole at the bus stop showed there was one at 9:50am, we had almost an hour to wait; this was spent strolling into the village of Broadway. It was a delightful little place with the square all decked out in red white and blue bunting for the coming weekend’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, there was even a small children’s fun fair. We visited the tourist information office but it was closed, only opening after we had gone. We would check again later on the walk back, as the route passed through Broadway. The place was a bit ‘olde worlde’ with quaint shops selling lots of country fair.

The start in Chipping Campden

 Our bus caused us a few anxious moments when it was ten minutes late; the company was Johnsons and the bus ran between Stratford and Moreton-le-Marsh. At Chipping Campden we had the usual problems finding the actual start but soon discovered a signpost halfway along the high street and we were on our way. Thereafter that we had no difficulties with the route as the way marking was first class, a mixture of signposts and small circular plaques with an arrow and the long distance path symbol of the acorn. The paths were all good and dry underfoot, the good spring weather had dried out the land and the paths were cracked with a network of small fissures over the surfaces.

We began to climb straight away to Dover Hill, named after Robert Dover who in 1612 instituted the ‘Olimpick Games’

‘Dover’s Olimpick Games became famous, so much so that a book was written about them in 1636, including descriptions of the activities and poems by such luminaries as Ben Jonson. A castle was constructed on the hill and a gun was fired to start the proceedings. There were some familiar events – running, jumping and dancing – but others that have no place in the modern Olympics. Backswords, coursing and pike-tumbling have long been forgotten, but others are at least recognizable, such as sack races – except unlike sack races at modern fetes, the competitors here had the sacks tied up to their necks. The games lasted through to 1852, when they were ended because they didn’t match Victorian notions of respectability. But they were restarted in 1951 as part of the Festival of Britain celebrations and the spirit of the old games lingers on. The castle is still built ever year, and the event ends with a torchlight procession in to the town. Even some of the older games have survived, including the alarming-sounding shin-kicking contest.’ 

from the Natioal Trails Guide; The Cotswold Way

When we walked over Dover Hill an American couple we spoke to asked if the Olympic Games had been held here, I read them the above quote from the guide book. They were from Colorado and over for three weeks holiday, they had already been around Scotland. There was a lot of activity and a mock castle had already been built, so it looks like the 'Olimpick Games' were being held for the Diamond Jubilee. Another feature of Dover Hill was the magnificent view looking out over the Vale of Evesham.

The Vale of Evesham from Broadway tower

The next feature as we climbed the next hill was Broadway Tower, a folly built around 1800 for the Earl of Coventry. There was a tea room and souvenir shop at the bottom of the tower and you could climb to the top for the view at £4 each. We didn’t bother and contented ourselves with the panorama from below which was still excellent and free. 

From the hill the route dropped steeply down an escarpment and followed a dry stone wall all the way down to Broadway where we had been earlier. Before looking for a bench in the village square for lunch we paid a visit to the tourist info which was now open. They weren’t much help with bus time tables from Cheltenham and further south, it was out with their area. After lunch it began to get overcast and there were some dark clouds. Eventually there were a few showers and we had to don our waterproof jackets. It was still very warm and with the jackets on it felt even hotter, I decided to take off my t-shirt and just wear the jacket and leave it open, that felt much better.

Stanway House

The route continued in the same way as before climbing hills and down the other side. The hills weren’t very high, definitely not Munro standard, but the ascents, though not very long, tended to be steep. Also, and maybe it’s because we prefer going up, the descents made us aware just how much we had climbed, they seemed to drop down and down and down. The couple of villages we passed through Stanton and Stanway were quite beautiful with lovely houses, lots thatched and with purple wisteria growing from the walls. We stopped at Stanway for a break and finished off our flask of coffee with a Bounty bar. We found a stone bench outside Stanway House which the guide book says is a fine example of Jacobean architecture. It was restored in the 18^th century and the water gardens renovated and open to the public on Sundays, at what seems to be the standard price for everything here of £4 each. The main attraction of the gardens was the pond and fountain with a plume of water shooting 100m into the air.

Thomas Cromwell monument

As we neared Hayles there was a stone monument with a seat built around the base. It was said that Thomas Cromwell, Henry V111's adviser sat there and watched the destruction of Hayles Abbey. Our book remarks that the monument was built long after the event and Hayles was still some distance away shrouded in trees. Soon we were coming down from the escarpment to Hayles and the campsite. It had been a good, hard day’s walking and we had covered 25.2km.

DAY 2  Thursday 31 May 2012

Hayles to Seven Springs  26km.

It was feeling quite mild when we left this morning. The BBC weather forecast said that there would be showers this morning and be cool but the afternoon it would be sunny and dry. They got it the wrong way round, it was dry and mild in the morning but cold after lunch then the showers started. Moira was wise and wore her fleece but I just had my golf shirt on. 

The start was better today beginning straight from the campsite, we would have to worry later about getting our bus connections back. The route took us near to the fence with the ruins of the abbey on the other side, I was able to get some nice photographs of the walls and arches that were still standing, from there it was a nice path across grassy fields to the town of Winchcombe. This was another conserved town with old beautiful buildings all decked in bunting and flags for the jubilee celebrations. There was an attractive church with a tall square tower and we had great views of it when looking back as we continued on the trail.

Winchcombe church

We climbed steadily up to Belas Knat, meaning beacon mound, where there was the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber or barrow. It was a huge mound in which the skeletons of about 30 of these ancient people had been found. After that it was a nice gently route on the top of the hills around Cleve Common and suddenly what resembled a French chateau appeared among the trees, Postlip Hall. From there the trail made its way though the fairways of Cleve Hill golf course where we had beautiful views of the countryside below stretching all the way to Wales with Cheltenham in the foreground.

Cotswold Way to Belas Knap

We were making steady progress and feeling better with having an early start and managed to keep going without any stops. As the track made its way over the tops we got closer to Cheltenham and could now make out the famous National Hunt race course on the outskirts of the city. On a couple of occasions the route markers didn’t come up to the expect standard and we weren’t sure about going any further until a young couple we passed earlier came along and assured us that we were heading the right way

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Postlip Hall

 When we came down the lane to Dowdeswell there was a cottage at the bottom that was also a small business doing cream teas and also maps and info for the walk. I asked there about buses and they kindly gave me a leaflet issued by the Cotswold Conservation Board about transport and times for buses and trains at places along the route. At Seven Springs where the route met the main road there was a bus into Cheltenham every hour, it was only another hour’s walking to get there.

 Until now we had been on our feet over 5 hours without a stop and it was well past our normal lunchtime. Fortunately as we reached the road at Dowdeswell there was a large lawn with picnic tables where we settled down for a break and our meal. The stretch to Seven Springs was a pleasant stroll through wooded countryside on lovely forest paths; we had plenty of time before the next bus.

When we got to the bus stop at Seven Springs, which was a roundabout at busy cross roads, it began to rain. As usual it was a worrying time when the bus was about 15 minutes late and we were now quite wet, standing in the pouring rain in our ponchos. When we arrived at the Royal Well bus station in Cheltenham we were just in time for the Castleways bus to Hayles. The time table said it left at 4:15pm but a new schedule we picked up on the bus showed a change and we got going 15 minutes later. It was a long tortuous route to Hayles, as he went ‘all around the houses’ in the towns and villages the bus passed through. It took 45 minutes for the short journey and then we had the walk to the campsite, luckily the rain had gone off and it was a pleasant evening. 

DAY 3  Friday 1 June 2012

Seven Springs to Painswick  26.1km  

When we finished at Seven Springs yesterday there was a huge lay-by and parking area near the roundabout. There were plenty of cars and lorries parked there and even a mobile snack bar for the good passing trade. We decided to drive there this morning, it seemed safe enough for parking the ‘van there for the day. The place we were making for, Painswick, was on the bus route to Cheltenham and from the city we could get the bus service we used yesterday to take us back to Seven Springs.

The footpath went slightly uphill to a wooded area and then grassland to Hartley Hill. It then followed the escarpment edge with more magnificent panoramic views until reaching Leckhampton Hill. The section had evidence of old quarrying and there should have been a rock pinnacle, Devil’s Chimney, behind one of the quarries but we couldn’t see it. It was one of the disappointments of the walk that the guide book listed points of interest but they were off-route and there weren’t any access paths or signs directing us to them.

The panorama from Leckhampton Hill

Remains of Neolithic fort battlements

From Leckhampton Hill it was easy walking over grassland before another climb to Crickley Hill. On this section the book said there was the site of a Roman villa but it was somewhere behind the large hedge that ran along one side of the path and no access path. On Crickley Hill there was a view point and car park, with a panorama table pinpointing all the hills and points of interest. It was much clearer today and we could make out many of the features. The city of Gloucester was now in the foreground, its cathedral with 225 foot tower should have been prominent but it wasn’t clear enough for that detail. The car park was quite full, mainly with dog walkers, some we had met on our route  that ran close by. Along the escarpment and rocky cliff were the remains of the battlements and main rampart of a Neolithic fort, that the archaeologists dated at 4000BC.

Leaving Crinkley Hill was one of the few occasions where the route marking was poor. We spent about 15 minutes wandering about searching, before a dog walker pointed us in the right direction. Nearby there was supposed to be another burial barrow but again hidden by a hedge. The route dropped down to a very busy junction at a roundabout where there weren’t any traffic lights or zebra crossing, and we had to dodge the traffic to get across to the continuation of the path along the escarpment. This section in the guide book finished at the village of Birdlip. I expected to come into the village but when after covering what seemed a long distance without seeing any habitation we rechecked the map and found that the route actually by-passed Birdlip. At this point we decided it was lunch time, we found a nice rock to sit and have our coffee and sandwiches.

Cooper's Hill for cheese rolling

At Coopers Hill the next village after our lunch break was famous for its cheese rolling event. It takes place on Spring Bank Holiday Mondays so should be on this week-end but we could see no signs of preparation or advertising for the event. Whole cheeses are rolled down the hill and the competitors pursue them, falling, tumbling and rolling as much as the cheeses, I have seen the fiasco on TV. The route took us to the top of the hill and it was a very steep climb and the drop on the other side for the competition was shear, not a hill I would like to go down quickly chasing a cheese. The guide book said that there was a Maypole on top to mark the starting point but all we could see was a long wooden pole lying on the ground.

Typical woodland path

From the top of Cooper’s Hill there was more climbing as the route made its way through Brockworth Wood before dropping down to the road at Cranham Corner. I had worked out from there it should be over 6km to Painswick where we planned to catch a bus back, but the road signpost said 2.5 miles or 4 km. Once on the route and off-road again a Cotswold Way sign confirmed this distance, it was now only 2 miles. This was pleasing as we would easily catch the earlier bus and save an hour. The route took us through a golf course most of the way to Painswick. It did look like a golf course with fairways, greens and flags indicating the holes, but there wasn’t a soul playing, so there was no danger of stray golf balls flying about.

We made it into Painswick in plenty of time for the bus and we sat on a bench beside the stop to finish off the coffee and have a Bounty bar. A couple who were locals told us the bus ran from Stroud to Cheltenham and at Stroud we could catch a bus to Wotton-under-Edge, the next place I planned to walk to, so the bus network was still fitting in well. The bus came on time and we got our connection to Seven Springs within 15 minutes of reaching Cheltenham. The ‘van was OK when we reached the lay-by and it wasn’t long before we were back at Hayles and the campsite. We did some planning for tomorrow’s section before getting to bed. I calculated the distance to Wotton-under-Edge and found it was in excess of 35km, too far. A closer option was the town of Dursley and we could get a bus there from Stroud. It is 24km between Painswick and Dursley, a more realistic distance.      

DAY 4  Saturday 2 June 2012

Dursley to Painswick  24.2km.

Being a Saturday and the holiday week-end, we weren’t sure how reliable the buses would be, so we decided to drive to Painswick and do today’s route in reverse. This meant that we would take the bus/buses to Dursley and walk back happily knowing that the ‘van would be waiting for us at the end. At the end of our walk yesterday we noticed there was a parking place, for walkers doing the Way, next to the trail, in a quiet secluded spot under the trees, so that was where we left the camper after a 26 mile drive via Cheltenham to Painswick. 

Painswick post office

We left Hayles at 7:30am and at this time of the morning the traffic wasn’t heavy so we got through Cheltenham easily. At Painswick we had an hour before the bus so we had a cup of tea and listened to the radio before making our way to the bus stop in the village. On the way we passed the old village post office which prides itself being the oldest in the country and it was built at first as a private house in 1478. In1997 it was chosen to be pictured on a commemorative set of stamps for the centenary of the National Association of Sub-Postmasters. The church had a tall steeple and a very colourful clock, the graveyard which encompassed the church boasted the finest carved table tombs in Britain and on the lawns grew nicely pruned yew trees, reportedly 99 in number.

Crawley hill long barrow

The bus arrived on time and waiting were two women from Norway, also doing the walk, unfortunately one of them had injured her foot and they were heading for the hospital in Stroud for treatment. At Stroud we had to wait an hour for our connection to Dursley and we spent it strolling around the shopping centre. Eventually we reached Dursley and it was a late start, made even later by the search for the start of the route. When we did find it we almost headed in the wrong direction, south instead of north, but were kept right by a friendly pub owner who pointed us to the north. It wasn’t a very nice day weather wise, there was a lot of mist about and it felt cold and damp, we eventually put on our rain jackets which also kept us warm. The haze and mist only began to clear late in the afternoon, preventing us from appreciating the fine views from the hill tops and viewpoints along today’s route. There were the usual tough climbs to the tops and ridges, unlike high mountains that gradually wind and zigzag their way to the summits these paths just go straight up. Although generally only short stretches to the tops, they do tend to be tough. Once out of Dursley we climbed to Cam Long Down where there was a flat walk over heath land before dropping down, only to climb up again to a panoramic viewpoint on Crawley Hill, and another example of a Neolithic burial mound or barrow. We stopped there for lunch then it was long enjoyable path following the contours of the hill through beautiful woodland. Coming the other way we first of all met the two Norwegian women. The injured one had her leg strapped up at the hospital and they had bussed to King’s Stanley where they had started their walk. Next heading towards us were the young couple that helped us with our route finding two days ago. They had begun today at Painswick and were heading for Dursley, they had started at 9:00am and it was now 2:00pm. That would mean we had still 5 hours to our finish, I was hoping they were very slow walkers.

Stroudwater Canal

We dropped down from the contour path to the town of King’s Stanley and then crossed the Stroudwater Canal to another tough climb to Standish Wood. There was an alternative route avoiding King’s Stanley that we could have taken that would have gone along the canal banks and around Selsley Common, but it was 3km longer and with the late start we felt it would drag out the day too much. Once at Standish Wood it was more level contour paths until a short climb took us to Haresfield Beacon. This was a trig point and the mist was beginning to clear rewarding us with  outstanding views of the horseshoe of hills that we had come round. From this point the sign post said: ‘2.5 miles to Painswick ‘ but it seemed a lot, lot, more, making up for yesterday’s short ending coming into Painswick from the other direction. It was after 6:30pm when we reached the ’van, so our time getting finish wasn’t much different from what the young couple, we met near King’s Stanley, had taken.

Moira at trig point on Haresfield Beacon

 Before leaving I made a cup of tea and drank it as we drove back. One plus about finishing late was that the roads were quiet and it was no problem going through Cheltenham. It was after 7:30pm when we reached the site at Hayles.

Sunday 3 June 2012 

Rest Day

We decided to have a break today as we weren’t sure about buses, a lot of the routes didn’t run on a Sunday. Also the rain that started last night continued all day with only a few breaks. It was definitely a rest day

We are planning to move tomorrow and Moira managed to get booked into a Camping and Caravan farm site at Wick, just north of Bath, but only from Tuesday. We had spotted another farm site at the village of Cambridge, near Dursley, when going there by the bus on Saturday. Moira tried to phone to book in for tomorrow night, but there wasn’t any reply. We will try again in the morning.

DAY 5  Monday 4 June 2012 

Dursley to Wotton-under-Edge  11.8km (circular 19.6km)

Today being a Bank Holiday the buses weren’t very frequent or reliable, even if they were running at all. The plan was to drive to Dursley, park the ‘van there and walk to Wotton-under-Edge and then walk back again to Dursley. There was a choice of an alternative to the' recognised' Cotswold Way which ‘saved’ 4km. We decided that going out it would be the proper long route and coming back we would take the short cut. Before leaving Moira tried to contact the farm site near Dursley but still no reply, so we planned to call into the farm site on the way to Dursley. We headed to the M5 motorway from Hayles and it was a quick trip today missing Cheltenham and the highway wasn’t busy on this holiday. On the A38 just before coming to Cambridge I spotted the farm site and we turned in. The farmer wasn’t there but a neighbour phoned him and it was alright to come later after our walk and camp. The price was only £10 for the night and was only 3.5 miles now to Dursley, so now we wouldn’t have a long drive after our walk.

The Rriver Severn and the bridges to wales

Tyndale Tower

In Dursley I parked at the swimming pool that was recommended by the guide book but as we were leaving I noticed a sign saying there was a limit of 3 hours for parking. I thought we would be alright as there wouldn’t be any traffic wardens working today. As we made our way to the start of the trail from Dursley we came to another car park, this was a ‘long stay’ allowing 23 hours. I moved the ‘van there and felt a bit more relaxed that we weren’t running a risk of a heavy fine or the wheels clamped. As usual there was the steep climb to begin with, taking us to the top of the Cotswolds again. On the top was a golf course and this was where the route split; there was a loop that went around the perimeter of the golf course or the short cut to the village of North Nibley. As planned we took the loop and we weren’t disappointed by taking the extra 4km. The track made its way along the edge of the escarpment and we had magnificent views in all directions as we circled round the golf course. After the rain yesterday it was as if the atmosphere had been washed, it was now crystal clear and we could see for miles. In one direction the River Severn flowed across the panorama and in the distance we could see the two bridges that connected England with Wales, crossing it. The route eventually came round and met the path that came directly over from the golf club house. There was a steep drop down again and some brave mountain cyclists were attempting to pedal to the top, they seemed to be managing when they passed us. At the bottom there was a track the farmer had cut through his field of corn leading to a bridge over a stream at the start of the village of North Nibley. At a house near the bridge there was a refrigerator with a sign, ‘cool water for Cotswold Way walkers’. It was bottled water and they wanted 50p per bottle in the honesty box, we didn’t bother, we had our own tap water in a bottle. Once through the village there was another very steep climb, to a large tower monument at the top. They had cut stairs into the slope but it didn’t make it any easier, it was a very tough climb. The monument, Tyndale tower, was built in 1866 to commemorate William Tyndale born in North Nibley in 1484 who took advantage of the new printing processes to produce the first complete translation of the Bible in English. We stopped at the tower and on the plinth around the base sat and had our lunch.  

Beacon ready for lighting and copse of trees planted for Waterloo

From the tower the walk was over open grassland and we had more splendid views of the Severn and the bridges in the distance. Soon it was into woodlands where it was sheltered from a cold wind that had picked up, even though it was a nice day otherwise. We came out of the trees and at an open point with more magnificent views where they were building a bonfire for the series of beacons all over the country that will be lit tonight to celebrate the jubilee. There was also a fenced off area with trees that were planted in 1815 to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo, but have twice been renewed. There was also a plaque that said some had been used for the beacon that was lit for Queen Victoria’s jubilee.

Clock in Wotton-under-Edge tro commemorate Victoria's jubilee

It was another drop down now to the little town of Wotton-under-Edge. We had a walk through the town and found a couple of parking areas that will do for leaving the ‘van tomorrow for the next stage of the walk. We tried to find out about buses from here but they all seemed to go north and nothing to the south that we want. We decided that we might continue to do out and back walks until the finish, it might take longer but we have lots of time. It took about 3 hours to reach Wotton but with the short cut at the golf course it was only 90 minutes to get back. We stopped again at the Tyndale Tower and finished off the flask of coffee with a Bounty bar.

Once back at the ‘van I move round to Sainsbury's supermarket,  which surprisingly was open today and Moira did some shopping before we headed for the farm site at Cambridge. We were at the small site by 4:00pm where there was also electricity included for the fee of £10.

DAY 6  Tuesday 5 June 2012 

Wotton-under-Edge to Hawkesbury.  11.8km (20km circular)

The weather forecast for today wasn’t good, rain was predicted again but when we got up it was still looking quite good and dry. The buses still weren’t dependable either, it was an extra holiday today for the Queen’s jubilee; we decide on another short section and then walking back by road, which was shorter, giving us another circular route
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St Mary's church, Wotton-under-Edge

I didn’t waken this morning until 7:00am and quickly got up, packed away the bed things and prepared the breakfast. We were all packed up and on our way just after 8:00am. I drove to Wotton and parked at the Civic buildings that we discovered at the end of our walk yesterday. The start of today’s route had us going through the town with a detour to St Mary’s church, a typical Cotswold church dating back to the 14^th century. It was open and we had a stroll around inside, it was chock-a-block with religious relics, statues, paintings etc. There was a competition for children with photographs of different aspects of the above items that had to be found in the church and identified. There was also a beautiful organ with golden pipes, donated by George1 in 1726.

The Cotswold Way from Wotton

Lower Kilcott

From the church the trail followed a small stream with charming cottages along the one side. Then came the seemingly obligatory climb out of all these towns, and this one was very steep. Once at the top it was a flat track through woodland before dropping again steeply to the village of Alderley. Just before the descent there was one of the beacons, lit last night all over the country for the jubilee, it was still smouldering. On the way down we were overtaken by a group of runners doing some cross country training. From Alderley the route was fairly flat and we combined with another trail, the Monarch’s Way, a 615 mile path that follows the route taken by Charles1 for his escape after the Battle of Worcester. We crossed a small river on to a minor road that led to Lower Kilcott; the steam ran beside the road and again the cottages and farms were built on the bank. Further along there was small pond busy with fishermen, it appeared that an angling contest was taking place. At this point we thought that we were further on than we were, and so got confused to where Hawkesbury was? After walking up and down on a muddy track, a local put us right and there were still a few kilometres to go before we reached the Somerset Monument near Hawkesbury. It was another steep climb before a flat track crossed a grassy field to a wood, as we exited from the trees the tall obelisk was straight in front of us. It closely resembled the tower, where we had lunch yesterday, above North Nibley. It commemorated the achievements of Lord Robert Somerset and his role in the Battle of Waterloo. There wasn’t any access to this tower but I was able to get some good photographs through the gate. The road, we were taking back, ran from Hawkesbury past the tower but first we took a walk down the hill into the village. Where the Way turned right over the fields there was a bus stop; I checked the time table and routes, finding they ran south towards Bath. We should be able to get back on to longer walks by using the buses now the holidays are over and they are back to regular schedules.

The Somerset Monument

We turned and headed up to the Somerset Monument again, continuing along the minor road towards Wotton. As we began our return the rain that was forecast started, it was light at first but got heavier. We had our ponchos on which kept our top half dry but our shoes and socks soon became sodden. We came off the road shortly after the monument and took a bridleway that the map showed ran parallel with the road. It was surfaced at the start but when it reached the farm called Splatt’s Barn we were going through long grass on an overgrown track. The route now didn’t resemble the one on the map which reconnected with the road; ours meandered through woodland and dropped steeply downhill. Once we cleared the trees there were houses and a pub, it turned out to be the village of Hillesley which was luckily on our route, we had wandered on to another path which took us further along the road. We now stuck to the road all the way back to Wotton; after Hillesley it was up and down to the villages of Alderley, and Wortley before reaching Wotton. At Alderley there was a marquee in a field, obviously left over from a jubilee street party and as the rain was now pouring we took shelter there to have our lunch. The rain had eased off as we made our way through Wotton to the ‘van and this dried off our ponchos but unfortunately not our shoes.

From Wotton, after filling with diesel at the local garage, expensive, we made our way to the farm campsite, which Moira had booked for the next four nights, at the village of Wick. It was about halfway between Hawkesbury and Bath where the walk finishes, now with the help of buses we should have no problem in completing it in the next few days. The campsite was alright and I filled up with water before settling down for the night. There was electricity and soon the water was heated for a shower. We felt much better washed and into dry clothes.

DAY 7  Wednesday 6 June 2012   

Hawkesbury to near Cold Ashton  22km (plus extra 4km to Horton)

The woman at the site gave us a schedule for the buses from Wick and there was one leaving at 8:09am for Chipping Sodbury and Old Sodbury. We found yesterday that buses ran from Chipping Sodbury to Hawkesbury, and the plan was to connect with one of these. We got ready early and left at 7:30am to walk the ½ mile into Wick for the bus. While waiting, we decided rather than search for the bus to Hawkesbury at Chipping Sodbury we would carry on to the next village, Old Sodbury, where the route passes through, and from there walk to Hawkesbury. We would then get the bus from there back, we had the time table from there, and then pick up the route south from Old Sodbury.

The bus arrived on time and when we got to Old Sodbury expected the driver to stop in the village centre, which was the end of his route after all. Instead he carried on right through the village and didn’t stop until he reached the main road to Stroud. This gave us about a kilometre to walk back to the village centre. This time there was no problem finding the way markers for the Cotswold Way and we still managed to have an early start, getting on our way at 9:00am.

St John the Baptist church, Old Sodbury

The 'bird folly', Horton

The exit from Old Sodbury took us in a loop round the graveyard of St John the Baptist church. It was another with a large square tower and the cemetery also had many table tombs. Once into the countryside it was a nice walk across meadows before a steep climb to the site of an Iron Age fort. All that was left was the surrounding walls which were now covered in grass and rounded. We then dropped down again to the village of Little Sodbury with another nice church and beautiful copper beach trees. The signpost there said it was 2¾ miles before the next village of Horton, so we were surprised when houses appeared and we entered Horton after about fifteen minutes. The signpost there said, pointing backwards, Little Sodbury 1/4 mile, some of these distances and measurements were haywire. Walking through the streets of the village we checked at a bus stop and found that there was a bus due in a few minutes for Hawkesbury, causing another change of plan. We jumped on the bus when it appeared, on time, and in ten minutes were dropped off where the Cotswold Way turned off the road just at the bus stop on the outskirts of Hawkesbury. Now we intended to walk all the way back to Old Sodbury and beyond, the repeat of the hour’s walk to Horton would be a ‘bonus’. It was 2 miles from Hawkesbury to Horton and fairly flat, initially on a gravel path then over open grassy fields. The weather forecast for the day was showery and we caught one on the way to Horton but it soon cleared and was replaced with blue skies. This was the weather pattern throughout the day, though some of the rainy periods were quite long and heavy. One unusual feature on this stretch was a ‘folly’ among the trees which we investigated to see what it commemorated. It wasn’t built by some wealthy eccentric but was a millennium project constructed as a nesting place for swallows and barn owls. It took slightly under an hour to be again striding past the bus stop in Horton and retracing the route back to Old Sodbury. This repeat section seemed shorter, maybe as we were familiar with it and soon the site of old Iron Age fort was crossed and the parish church was in view. A topograph outside the church which we hadn’t spotted going the other way pointed to the Brecon Beacons. It was clear enough today to make out these distant Welsh mountains.

Cotswold panorama

Dyrham Park and manor house

Moira with Alec doing his 'lejog'

With another shower of rain looming we found a bus shelter in the village to stop for lunch. While we were there a couple of lads came asking for directions and bus schedules. They were from Texas and had started the walk from Bath four days ago. They were camping along the route and their rucksacks looked heavy, made heavier with a wet tent and sodden sleeping bags from the rain last night. They wanted a bus into Chipping Sodbury to find a supermarket, and then were heading for Stroud ,for some unexplained reason, as it isn’t on the route. Continuing again the route headed to the village of Tormarton. It was along quiet lanes and on paths beside hedges that separated the fields. The paths were grassy which was long in places and wet from the number of showers last night and today. My trainers were very wet and I was wearing my Nikes which cut into my toes like they did in Spain. Moira made the correct decision today and wore her boots, her feet were bone dry. In Tormarton there was another lovely church with a massive square Norman tower. The guide book said the original name of the village, ‘Tower Marton’, came from this distinctive church tower. The next section in the guide book went from Tormarton to Cold Ashton but we planned to leave the route early and take a lane over to the A420 near the farm site at Wick.This ‘cut the corner’ and saved about 3km of walking along the busy A420. It was about 8km before we left the trail and it was easier walking mainly beside hedgerows that lined the fields. It wasn’t so hilly now and any ascents were short and gradual. The only village along the route was Dyrham, with the deer park, Dyrham Park and a large stately home which was built by William Blathwayt on the site of a Tudor manor and now run by the National Trust. We were looking for a place to stop for a break and the rest of the coffee in our flask, looking through the gates to the park there were lots of benches around a large manicured lawns. Unfortunately this gate from the lane was kept locked, the entrance was somewhere on the busy A46 some distance away. We continued into the village of Dyrham where there was a convenient bench in the square. While we were relaxing another walker coming from the Bath direction stopped to talk. He was Australian and doing the Land’s End to John O’Groats (lejog) long distance route. We discussed the parts we had done and advised him on routes through Scotland. He has a blog and gave us the details: ‘Alec takes a walk…’  www.alecwalkslejog.blogspot.com.au. I gave him ours and we will keep in touch. It was only a short distance now, at Gorse Lane, to where we were to take the short cut back to the farm. There was gravelled path that took us through Dyrham Wood; it was the first climb we had since lunch time. Before reaching the lane we crossed a field of cows, I heard a noise behind me and they were all following me, I had to hurry through the kissing gate at the bottom of the field to get away from them. Gorse Lane which we imagined to be small narrow and quiet turned out to be a wide road with lots of traffic. It was very dodgy walking along with the stream of cars coming towards us. It got even worse when we reached the A420 and had a mile of very fast cars and trucks to avoid. When we reached the farm we asked the woman if there was a path that would take us back to the Way in the morning to avoid these roads, instead she offered to drive us to the route at 8:00 in the morning.

Through the gate before the cows caught me.

DAY 8  Thursday 7 June 2012   

near Cold Ashton to Bath  17.5km 

It had rained during the night but it was off when we wakened in the morning. The weather forecast on the TV wasn’t at all promising, heavy rain was on the way accompanied by gale force winds. This was to last over the week-end so we made sure we got away this morning before it deteriorated further. Today we both put on our ‘foul-weather’ gear, rain jackets and waterproof trousers; I also put on my boots. It was a wise move as the paths were very muddy and the grass soaking wet, I was surprised that they felt so comfortable as I hadn’t worn them for over a year. The conditions weren’t so bad when we began, a continuous drizzle but later the wind picked up and the rain got heavier and a heavier.

The gate to the manor house, Cold Ashton

Battle of Landsdown Hill route marker

We were all ready to go at 8:00am and the farm woman was waiting at her car to give us a lift as promised. She did well and managed to stop on the busy Gorse Lane near to where the path crossed the lane, it was a good early start for us. It was only a short walk of about ½ mile through the few houses of Pennsylvania to the larger village of Cold Ashton, the start of the final section in the guide book. It had been a flat easy walk through fields of arable crops, a path went through the middle of a field of rape where we got our legs covered in the bright yellow flower petals. Cold Ashton had some grand buildings and the landowners enjoyed its commanding position on the hill. The entrance to the manor house has an impressive design and we recognised it from the photograph in our guide book.

After the village it was along high hedged lanes and grassy fields before the first climb of the day, to the top of Landsdown Hill, the site of a Civil War battle in 1643. An information board on the top gave details of the defence of the city of Bath by the Parliamentarians under Sir William Waller against the Royalist army led by Sir Ralph Hopton. There was also a walking route of the battle site that was way marked with a red flag with a white cross on a blue pole adorned with two broadswords at its base. Along this battle route which coincided with our walk there was a monument with a coat of arms and a griffin on top, it commemorated Sir Bevil Grenville who died in the conflict.

Grenville monument

The route continued to follow the escarpment and we had views of Bristol in the distance before a good gravel path took us round the golf course. There weren’t any golfers about in the weather conditions which had got steadily worse, heavy rain and strong gusts of wind; but there was a keen runner out training, his bare legs covered in mud. After the golf course we came to Bath race course, and the trail passed the beginning of the straight with the starting stalls and the grandstands opposite the finishing post in the distance. As we came to the rim of the escarpment again the view opened out over Bath and followed the edge for some distance before beginning its descent to the city. The route took us down the hillside to a football field which we crossed to the streets. As we have often found, the signs and way marks for the route are difficult to find when you get to large towns and cities, it was no difference here. As we were at the end of the route we just asked people for directions to the city centre and a nice walk through a wooded park soon had us at the bus station.

The rain was now pouring down and as we had explored Bath last September we decided to catch the first bus back to Wick. We had an hour to wait and spent it having our lunch seated on a bench at the terminus. It was a 20 minute ride back to Wick and a short walk to the site.

It had been a very enjoyable walk with some outstanding scenery. If it hadn't been for the extended Spring Bank Holiday for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee the buses would have been more favourable, but we managed very well anyway. The campsites where we stayed weren't luxury but we don't need much as we have all the required facilities in nthe campervan. We spent an extra day at the site in Wick before heading back to Cardiff to see how Margaret was 'progressing'. It was fortunate that we finished yesterday as the rain was torrential and we had to move the 'van in case the gales blew down the tree we were parked under.                

                                                            .                            

Returning home

We spent another three days in Finnesterre, relaxing, reading and just having a lazy time after our strenuous Camino. Moira was entirely happy about doing nothing but I still had to get some exercise and went out for a run each morning, on one occasion going all the way out to the lighthouse at the point and back. On 15 May, we caught the bus which left at 7:50am and got us to Santiago two hours later. We had a wander round the old town again before catching another bus out to the airport for the plane to Madrid.

Moira at the lighthouse on Cape Finnesterre

We were flying Ryan Air and we had to get rid of the gas container for our little cooker and the big knife Moira had for preparing our meals. Also to avoid baggage charges we had to reduce the size of our rucksacks by eating up all the food we had and strapping them up tightly in order for them to fit through the frame that gauges the size of anything that is taken as hand luggage. With a lot of trial and error we got them down to size and had no further problems. The flight to Madrid was only an hour and we were soon on a bus again heading for the city centre. The plan was to spend a day here sightseeing.

Somebody left their boots at Finnesterre!

The hotel we had booked into was cheap and in the city centre. We found the reason it was so cheap later that night, when the noise outside went on until about 3:00am. We hardly slept at all. Neither did we have any facilities to make a cup of coffee, the gas container had been ditched; we didn’t have anything to revive us. We did have breakfast at a café, but you get a thimble full of coffee and a piece of toast for E3. Madrid itself was a beautiful city with magnificent buildings, palaces and churches. To see everything we took one of the open topped bus tours that go round all the important spots and attractions with a commentary in English. The ticket lasted all day and we were able to jump on and off as often as we liked. We spent the morning touring with the bus then in the afternoon we walked around the route to get a closer look at things.

City Gate Madrid

I thought that I would be able to pick up a gas container for the cooker easily in the city but it turned out to be a mission. We asked at different shops and also the tourist information office, after a lot of searching we were eventually lucky at a mountaineering shop in a narrow side street. Now we were able to get some coffee when back at the hotel which got us back to life, this was followed with a nice Indian curry at a restaurant we discovered on our earlier wanderings.

After another noisy and sleepless night we packed up and headed for the railway station for the train to Sevilla. We had found out that if we purchased a seniors card for over ‘60’s’ at E5 each we would get 40% discount on the rail fare. This meant that we could get to Sevilla for E100, it was still more expensive than the bus but it only took two hours against six. The only problem we discovered with the train was that they were doing airline type security checks, and our bags had to go through a X-ray machine. They wouldn’t allow the gas canister and I had to hand it over, after all the trouble obtaining it. Strangely they didn’t query a knife we had bought yesterday and was in Moira’s bag ??

Real Madrid stadium

At Sevilla we settled at the bus station for an hour’s wait for our connection to Conil. We had prepared sandwiches and a flask of coffee before leaving this morning and sat on a bench to have them while waiting. A young guy sat beside us, he was English, and we got talking; he boasted that he had just completed a long distance walk up north, the Camino Frances to Santiago. We then proceeded to deflate his ego by telling him that we ‘oldies’ had done the much longer Via de la Plata’. When we reached Conil we had a walk to La Rosaleda campsite and it was now very warm. I was somewhat apprehensive about the campervan but it alright and even the batteries were still well charged. We decided to book in for an extra day here to recharge ‘our batteries’ after two sleepless nights, before driving home.

Plaza Mayor Madrid

At the nearby supermarket we restocked the ‘van with food to keep us going until we got to Cardiff. We had intended to take it easy for the drive back and spend the odd day or two at a few nice spots on the way north. This changed when after a lovely first day it began to rain, and it continued for three days. What made it worse was that they were experiencing a heat wave in Britain at the time and it was forecast to continue for some time. We decided to push on and get back as quickly as possible. We reached the port of Calais in four days where we parked overnight on the quay, ready to get on the ferry to Dover first thing in the morning.

We reached Cardiff on Thursday 24 May. Margaret was looking well and there is still at least 10 days before the baby is due. We spent the week-end with them but decided to go away for another long distance walk which was close by, the Cotswold Way, and come back closer to the time. If it decided to arrive earlier we weren’t far away and could get back in a few hours.

Olympic torch through Cardiff

Over the week-end in Cardiff the Olympic Torch relay passed through. It went along a street close to where Margaret and Justin live, so we strolled down to have a look. We waited with a large crowd spread along the pavements for about 45 minutes for the event. There were more police than anything else. They passed along in cars, vans, on bicycles and on horseback, I thought in these austere times they were making cuts to the police force, obviously not yet. When the guy did appear with the torch it was a bit of an anticlimax, he was there and gone in a matter of seconds, you had to be quick to get a photograph. After that all there was nothing left but to head home again. I think the description that springs to mind is ‘non event’. The next morning I was running the time trial at the park in Cardiff; while I was running Margaret got talking to one of the organisers and it turned out he had taken part in the torch relay. He had the torch in his car and Margaret got a photograph with him holding the torch. 

Margaret doing the Olympic relay?

                 

Day 46

Finnesterre

Diary 12 May 2012

Day 46

 

 

 

Our walking wasn't quite over we still had to get out to the lighthouse at the point, Cape Finisterre. Moira made sandwiches and I filled the flask with coffee, we would have lunch out there. It was 10:30am when we started and the weather was great, it was very warm and when walking up the long climb out to the point we realised how lucky we had been with the colder conditions, even very cold at times, when on the Camino, it would have been a lot worse struggling in the excessive heat that was beginning now all over Spain. It was a nice easy stroll for us especially not having a heavy pack on our backs. It only took about 45 minutes to get to the end of the peninsula and we sat on the rocks below the lighthouse where we enjoyed the view out over the ocean to the 'ends of the earth'. As traditional, there were lots of abandoned boots and shoes scattered over the rocks, and the remains of fires where again obeying tradition perigrinos had burned their clothing.

 

It was still too early for our picnic so we made our way back to have it beside the harbour in town. On the way the little church on the hill before the town was open for a bus load of tourist that were heading for the cape. We took advantage and went in for a look around. It was just a small church but had a couple of nice small stained-glass windows, we also were lucky and got a stamp on our credentials which are now nearly full with the reminders of our various stopping points. At the harbour we found a bench and watched the boats in the marina while enjoying our sandwiches and coffee in the now very hot sunshine.

 

It was after 1:00pm when we headed up to the hostel again. Moira collected the iPad and went in search of a bar with a WiFi link, while I made my way with a cup of coffee to the albergue gardens where I stripped off and did some work on my tan. When Moira got back she said there was a message on Facebook from Dave Calaghan, a guy we met when we previously did the Camino Frances. He was doing it again and was now halfway to Santiago. Moira told him on email that we had just finished and where we were. By this time I had been lying in the sun for nearly an hour and getting a little burnt and hot, I decided I wanted a swim to cool off. We went over the hill to the beach and Moira paddled her feet while I slowly made my way into the very cold Atlantic. As usual once I got under it wasn't so bad and I managed to stay in for about fifteen minutes. I felt the benefit of the refreshing and invigorating cold salt water and the fun diving under the breaking surf.

 

It wasn't long until dinner when we got back, and it was a pizza with salad tonight, followed again by strawberries but this time with ice cream. Once the washing up was done we went through to the lounge to read. The intention was to go out later to watch the sunset but I feel asleep on the chair and decided to get to bed early. I should have forced myself to stay up as now after my snooze I wasn't tired and didn't sleep very well, and the noise later on from the bar nearby didn't help either.

Day41 to Day 45

Via de la Plata

Monday 7 May 2012

Day 41

 

Rest day in Santiago

 

Before starting the Via de la Plata I had run for 100 consecutive days, after that it has been 40 days walking in a row. Today was the first rest day I've had since last December. We had a sort of a long lie-in, I was wakened as usual before 6:00 am but there was no jumping up to get away just settling back with a cup of tea and reading in bed.

 

It was nearly 10:00 am when we went out, heading down to the shopping mall that was near the albergue where we stayed the time we walked the French route. It was beginning to rain as we reached the shopping centre and managed to get under cover before getting too wet. There was a WiFi zone in the mall and we were able to sit down and check our email, post my blog and download the newspaper. Our next stop was the supermarket in the basement where we bought a barbecued chicken and ingredients for salad to have for dinner in our room tonight. We weren't paying E27 for hamburger and chips again. When the shopping was finished it was still raining so it was on to the Internet again. Moira arranged accommodation for us in Madrid where we fly there on the 15th of the month. We have booked to fly with Ryan Air when we return after the next stage of our walk, to Finisterre, which starts tomorrow.

 

Our intention this morning was to make it back to the cathedral in time for the peregrinos service but when we started back the rain was lashing down. Even though we had our ponchos with us we were soaked and went back to the room to dry off and have lunch instead. We had been to the mass before and it's all in Spanish, all you wait to hear and understand is when the priest says 'two people from Scotland starting from Sevilla' in his list of those who finished yesterday. So we didn't think we were missing much.

 

Late in the afternoon the rain had eased and we went out to an Internet cafe. We had to check-in on-line for our Madrid flight and printed off our boarding passes. It took about fifteen minutes and together with the printing cost only 69 cents, I don't know how this business survives on these prices. The rain was pouring when we came out from the cafe so it was back to the room where we later had our meal of chicken and salad followed by strawberries and yoghurt.

 

We went out again about 8:00pm, the newspapers that we downloaded this morning had 'frozen', so we looked for a bar with WiFi. We managed to download them again and I sent an email to the 'Daily Telegraph' telling them what I thought of their system that we are paying for. On the way back we bought some cap badges and a little waymark plaque as souvenirs of our successful pilgrimage.

 

It's off again walking tomorrow, the weather forecast says we will have another two days of rain then on Thursday it will be sunny and very warm. We have become used to the rain but it would be nice to get some of the expected Spanish climate.

 

Camino Finisterre

Tuesday 8 May 2012

Day 42

 

Santiago to Negreira. 22km.

 

It was a really horrible day, it had rained all night and it was still coming down when we left at 8:00 from Santiago. It was wet for all of our walk though not lashing, it saved that until the afternoon when we were comfortably settled in the albergue at Negreira. Some of the peregrinos arriving then were soaking and dripping wet and ready for a hot shower. I suppose we were lucky and only had to suffer a continuous drizzle.

 

It was another case of a very nice route through quiet country lanes and woodland paths, which would have been much improved in dry and warm conditions. We had been walking for about an hour when an Irish girl caught up with us and joined us, chatting for a while. She had completed the French route and enjoyed it so much she said she couldn't stop walking. In two hours we reached the village of Ventosa and there was a bar open, a number of other peregrinos were already having their break there. We had coffee and the barman added a plate with cake, to go with our drink, it still only cost E2.20, big difference to the prices in Santiago. A woman who was there recognised us, the Scots couple in shorts; she remembered us from away back on Day 14 of the Via de la Plata at the albergue next to the reservoir at Alconeter. She was a strong walker and with her husband had finished on May 1, when we were still only at Ourense with 110km to go. They had already walked round by Muxia to Finisterre and were now on their way back to Santiago, she was sick of the rain and glad to be getting finished today.

 

Shortly after leaving Ventosa there was a long fairly steep hill. It went up through the woods on a wet muddy track that never seemed to reach the top. When it eventually came out on to the tarred road it still went up, to the village of Carballo at the top. As we climbed the forest track there had been seats at intervals for resting on a hot tiring day, but although it was still tiring it wasn't a day for sitting down in the rain. Once over the top it was downhill near enough to the finish, but even with the rain I had to stop to take photographs as we crossed the Rio Tambre by the Ponte Maceira. It was a beautiful little village with this 13th century stone bridge with five arches.

 

It wasn't quite downhill to the albergue as the town of Negreira was on a hill and we had a steep climb to get there. I recognised the town from when we walked here before and we passed under a lovely archway at the far end of the town to get to the albergue. There were only one or two other people there, so no hold ups getting registered. The woman must have thought we were too old to climb the stairs to the dorm and put us in the disabled accomodation next to the toilets. It was just a two double bunk room and we took the bottom ones.

 

The first priority was lunch, and while Moira made some soup I prepared the coffee. Once we were fed it was them a nice hot shower. I didn't go out again but later in the afternoon Moira walked back into the town to get some stuff at the supermarket. She got vegetables to go with the chicken we had left from yesterday to make a lovely curry for dinner, she also got strawberries again which was a delicious sweet with yoghurt.

 

Unsurprisingly there are not a lot of disabled people doing the strenuous walking of the Camino so we didn't have to share our special dorm with anyone else. Any other peregrinos arriving were put upstairs in the normal dorm. The other people in the albergue were a lot younger than we had seen on the Via de al Plata, they were obviously on a time limit for their holiday as they were comparing the distances they walk each day to get finished on their tight schedule. Most were doing 40km a day, some up to 50km. Another thing everybody was doing was to use the hot air hand drier in the toilets to dry their clothes. It was surprising that it was working, they aren't normally, but I followed suit and got my socks more or less dry. Probably when the municipality get the bill for the electricity they will then turn them off.

 

It was nearly 10:00 pm when we got to bed tonight and it was nice and peaceful in our own room, no snoring etc to keep us awake. It was actually very warm, there must have been some hidden heating system and I had to get up during the night to open window.

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Wednesday 9 May 2012

Day 43

 

Negreira to Santa Marina. 21km.

 

When we left at 8:00am there seemed to be a break in the clouds and it was looking brighter over to the west. We thought it was promising to be a good day, it didn't turnout that way. Shortly after we started the sky just turned the slate grey all over they we are becoming used to and the rain started again. It wasn't to bad at first and after climbing a long steep hill we were feeling very warm and took off our fleeces, our ponchos keeping us warm enough.

 

For the first two hours until we had a stop for coffee at a bar in A Pena, it was a delightful route through woodland and forest trails. Underfoot it wasn't so good, it was very wet and after trying to avoid mud and puddles our shoes and socks got sodden, so we just waded through the water which in places was a fast flowing steam rather than a footpath. It was a relief when we reached the village and the bar for a lovely big cup of 'cafe con leche'. The woman there spoke English and said the forecast was for rain until Friday, I thought our prediction from the computer had it sunny tomorrow, we will wait and see.

 

After our break the route deteriorated as well as the weather. It was a lot of road walking and the rain got heavier with the wind getting stronger and colder. I had thought about stopping to get my fleece out to put on again but I was wet underneath from condensation and I didn't want to get wetter by taking off my poncho to put on my fleece so we must soldiered on. Even when the arrows took us on to farm tracks it was now open country with little shelter from trees and the wind was blowing a gale, whipping our ponchos up and soaking our shorts. It was becoming a very miserable experience. There was a private albergue attached to a bar on our list at Maronas which was just 20km walking today, that was enough in these conditions and we decided to call it a day there. Unfortunately the bar or the albergue wasn't in this village and we had to dig out the list and the Cicerone In the rain with a lot of argument and shouting to try to find the place. We eventually had to stop a car in a deserted village, Santa Marina,to ask directions before eventually arriving there, cold, soaked and frustrated but thankful of some shelter at last.

 

The woman behind the 'Bar Antelo' seemed confused about what we wanted but eventually she showed us to the dorms in a building next door. We were the only ones there and got the bottoms bunks in a small room with just the two double bunks, upstairs there were more beds and another toilet. We stripped out of our wet clothes and had a shower before lunch, some hot soup and dunking bread. Later more people arrived, German and Swiss and all went upstairs, they must have got all their gear in their rucksacks soaked, going by the amount of stuff they had to hang out on the line, the rain had gone off and there was a good drying breeze blowing.

 

We went up to the bar late in the afternoon for a drink, it was much warmed there, the hostel had no heating and had a damp feeling about it. More people arrived while we were in the bar, I don't know where they had walked from to be now getting finished at nearly 5:00pm. When we returned to the dorm the two top bunks were now taken and a girl was using the sofa in the lounge for a bed, the one she was allocated was damp according to her.

 

Dinner was at 7:00pm and we got to the bar a little earlier. We were sitting at a table waiting for our meal when the waitress took the table and joined it with another two, it was to be a communal meal with the other peregrinos. That meant everything had to be shared out between ten people, the food was alright but the wine ran out quickly and the waitress was reluctant to get more, even though we offered to pay extra. The attitude of the staff was as if the customers were an imposition and plates and food were just dumped in front of you. When it came to the sweet, she produced tubs of yoghurt, Moira told her she wanted ice cream, this was a no-no for some reason and after some strong words of displeasure Moira stomped out. It was another example of staff with no interest in the needs of the customer and of the business, witnessing this fairly often in our travels through Spain.

 

Back at the albergue I had intended to sit up and read a book I had found but the sofa was now occupied by the girl worried about damp beds. So it was off to bed early instead. It was not a good night, the guy above me was a snorer and it wasn't until late into the night that I remembered about ear plugs. I slept better after putting them in.

 

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Thursday 10 May 2012

Day 44

 

Santa Marina to Cee. 31km.

 

What a difference the weather makes to a good walk. If we had had to suffer the driving rain and winds of yesterday especially over the high moorland track at the end of the day, from Hospital to Cee, it would have been an absolute misery. Whereas it was the perfect conditions for striding out and enjoying a long day through the best scenery on the Santiago to Finisterre stretch. As we left at 7:30am there was cloud about, but it was light and broken, on the horizon the sky was clear and blue allowing us to see a sun rise for the first time in weeks. It must have been a fine warm night as the road was dry and when we got to the off-road parts these were remarkable water free as well. It didn't become a hot sunny day with lots of blue sky and on occasions some dark clouds had us worried but it stayed dry all day, hurrah!

 

We started out in our tights which we abandoned in the afternoon, but the ponchos were packed away, hopefully for good. It was much freer walking and there was certainly a spring in our steps. We were also glad to be away from the albergue which turned out to be a very depressing place, with the cold and damp atmosphere and annoying people. I got up at 6:00, went to the kitchen and made the coffee. Moira joined me and brought through all our gear. After breakfast we packed up in the kitchen and were soon on our way, without disturbing anybody.

 

Our first two hours walking were along mainly country lanes. It was easy going, a few hills to get up but nothing serious and we were enjoying it. There was a large reservoir that could be seen down in the valley as our route took the contours round the hillside above. It was the Embalse de Fervenza, the level was very high after all the recent rains. The route crossed the Rio Xallas by the Ponte Olveira and there was a new albergue there. It was open and had a restaurant where we took advantage and had coffee with toast and jam. It also had WiFi and this enabled us to download again the newspapers which are still freezing after a few hours. This hostel looked very nice indeed, and if the weather had been more favourable we could have comfortably made it here yesterday and I think had a pleasanter time.

 

It was only about 6km to Hospital where the route splits, one way to Muxia where we went on our previous walk, the other direct to Finisterre where we were heading. There was a bar there, advertising itself as the last for 15km, we satisfied ourselves with just a coffee even though the women was implying that we wouldn't make it to the next 15km without food here. It wasn't that bad as we are always prepared and there was a lovely stopping place at a church, Santuario de Nosa Señora das Neves, with picnic tables that we had our flask of coffee and cheese sandwiches. We met a Swedish couple there and they told us about a pilgrimage in Sweden, St Olaf's Way, that's another one will have to take a look at.

 

From the church and picnic spot it was a climb up to a beautiful moorland path, the views were outstanding. The surrounding hills now crystal clear now the mist and rain had gone, and the windmills that ran along a ridge were practically motionless. We expect to see the ocean as we crested every hill, only to have the track continue over the heather covered moorland to another hill. It then appeared suddenly as the path dropped sharply away before us, the town of Cee with its houses ringed around the top of a deep inlet cut into the high cliffs. It was the first we had seen of the sea since leaving Conil six weeks ago. It was a steep drop to get down again to sea level and the path was rough and rocky, so it was slow going. When we reached the tarred road there was a signpost saying 150m to the 'O'Bordon Albergue', we decided to take a look. After our experience of last night our intension was to go to an hostal or pension with a double room but this turned out to be a '5 Star' albergue. It looked brand new, tiled throughout, luxury toilets and showers and the dorm was big but the bunks were well spread out and each one had a locker to stow your gear. We were the only people there but later just one guy turned up and slept at the other end, so if he did snore he was too far away to hear him. There was a washing machine and Moira got all our clothes cleaned and was able to put them outside in now bright warm sunshine. Later Moira found a supermarket and used the beautiful kitchen to make a longed for chicken curry, and yet again strawberries. What a change from last night.

 

Tonight we were able to sit on comfortable chairs in the lounge and read. I still had the book I picked up at the last place and we had a few days of the 'Telegraph' that we downloaded earlier today. It was just after 9:00 when we decided to get to bed, we were both tired after quite a long walk today.

 

 

Camino Finisterre

Friday 11 May 2012

Day 45

 

Cee to Finisterre. 14 km.

 

It was our usual time of 6:30am when we were up and had breakfast. The other person staying had the breakfast supplied by the albergue but we make our own, having cereal and yoghurt rather than just a piece of toast. Our fellow pilgrim was from Montreal in Canada, and had walked from Le Puy in France. He started at the end of February and reminded us that the weather was surprisingly excellent then, the time when they also had a heat wave in the UK for a month. It deteriorated after that and he said there was a month of nearly continuous rain. Even though we were having sunny warm weather our washing hadn't quite dried overnight but there was a tumbler drier for another E3, so Moira had everything clean and fresh as we began the final stage of our marathon trek.

 

It was a bit overcast as we set out, and there were a few spots of rain over the next couple of hours but it remained dry and now very warm. The route varied from some road walking to lovely gravel tracks up the hillsides as we had to cross a few ridges and cliff tops that ran down towards the sea. Cee was a fairly large town and had some industry, small ship building yards, fishing and a large harbour. It was a long stretch through the still quiet streets before we cleared Cee and into the next village of Corcubion, a small seaside holiday resort. We were now on the opposite side of the large inlet and the route where we had descended from the moorland top could be seen directly across the water and also our hostel for last night on the slopes above Cee. It was a wonderful panorama with some high mountains in the distance adding to the picture.

 

We stopped after our normal two hours finding a convenient wall to sit on at the beach in Estorde. We ate an apple and watched the Atlantic surf break on to the golden sands. From there we climbed up to the cliff tops again and there was a pleasant stroll along a path lined with bright yellow gorse and purple heather. From there we had our first view of Finisterre curving along the edge of the peninsula where at the far end the top of the lighthouse could just be seen. Down at sea level again a crazy-paved path took us all the way into Finisterre. It had been the shortest walk of the pilgrimage but one of the nicest, with lovely ocean vistas and good paths taking us high and enhancing these views.

 

In Finisterre it was argument time again as Moira had lost the leaflet advertising the albergue we wanted to go to. At the bus stop all the peregrinos were waiting for transport to Santiago, some we recognised but couldn't assist with whereabouts of the hostel. The locals were even less assistance and couldn't even direct us to the tourist information office, my attempts at pronouncing our needs in a sort of Spanish got a woman taking us to the local pharmacy. Eventually with a lot of patience on Moira's part and more bad temper on mine we found the place. The guy was still doing the cleaning but there was a double room available, we settled in the kitchen for a cup of coffee until he was finished. There was an American girl there from Seattle and later a woman from Cape Town joined us, so we were able to chat about South Africa.

 

The room we got was fine and we would have some privacy for a change. We were low on food supplies so headed into town to the supermarket and stocked up for the four days we intend staying here. It was soup and bread for lunch then we went to the gardens opposite the albergue to sit in the sun and read. It was good that

later Moira was able to cook and we could eat what and when we liked, and it was a lot, lot cheaper.

 

After dinner we went for a walk down to the beach which was about ten minutes over the hill. It was a pleasant warm evening and we paddled our feet in the ocean, the water was cold but if it is as sunny tomorrow as this afternoon I will be having a swim. Everybody else was out when we returned, probably for their meal, and we got to bed. We didn't hear anybody coming in but there was noise from a pub nearby and I had to put in earplugs to block out the sound and to get to sleep.

 

Day 35 to Day 40

Via de la Plata

Tuesday 1 May 2012

Day 35

 

Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense. 20 km.

 

If the past few days have rated some of the best walks then today's must be the worst of the Via de la Plata. It was virtually all on the tar road through one village after the other, A Pousa, Salgueiros, Veirada, Pereiras, Castellana, San Ciprian das Vinas, and Seixalbo before reaching Ourense. All the communities were much the same obviously dormitory towns zto commute into the city of Ourense. There were only a few interesting highlights the reflections in the Rio Arnoya that we crossed leaving Xunqueira, the storks nest built high on the old factory chimney at Castellana and the lovely walled lane into Ourense when the camino did manage to leave the road. Other than that it was a miserable route and especially on the outskirts of the city there was an industrial area to go through followed by the usual line of car sales/showrooms that seem to occur on entering any big town or city.

 

We didn't rush away this morning as the plan was to stay at a hostal tonight in Ourense. Everyone had left while we were still at breakfast and it was after 8:00am by the time were on our way. We stopped outside the bar where we dined and got on line. It was a WiFi zone and we were given the password last night. I published my latest blog and Moira downloaded the newspaper, then we were off. When we reached Ourense we had to change our plan, there didn't appear to be any hostals or pension about in the city centre, but we saw arrows to the albergue so followed them instead. All along he route from Sevilla it has been difficult to find a shop never mind a supermarket in any of the villages but nearly all the villages this morning had a Spar or a small grocery store. Unfortunately being the May Day holiday not one of them was open. Coming into Ourense we did find a few shops open and managed to get bread and picked up a barbecued chicken for dinner. It was quite a distance up a long hill to the albergue but it was worth it, the dorms were nice and big with plenty of beds, we had no trouble getting bottom bunks even though all people who left this morning were already there. Later we moved to another room when we found that the Frenchman who snores was next to us, there was plenty of space in this another dorm as well.

 

Once we were showered Moira made soup in another well equipped kitchen. About 4:00 we went for a walk around Ourense. We tried to find the route out for tomorrow but got lost in a maze of narrow streets and lanes. Eventually we came across a large shopping mall and thought maybe that was where the locals went on a holiday. It was nearly empty as well, all the stores were closed, only restaurants doing business. We had an ice cream at MacDonald's. The balcony outside the mall overlooked the Rio Mino that flowed through the city, I got some nice photographs of the bridges. When we made our way back we found the Camino shell symbols in the pavement on Rua do Paseo, so we achieved one objective. This street led to the cathedral, San Martin, which was open. It was well worth the visit though a bit dimly lit. The columns and the arched roof were magnificent and we did spot the statue of the seated figure of Santiago with shell around the base that was mentioned in the Cicerone guide.

 

One thing we didn't achieve when out was to find any shops open, it must have only been only a half day the ones open this morning. Moira was looking for vegetables for a curry using the barbecued chicken she bought, instead we had roast chicken with rice savoured with some curry powder. It was delicious. The only faces missing as we had dinner were Suzanna and Almont, we had seen them in the cathedral this evening but they hadn't shown up at the albergue.

 

Tonight we weren't bothered by snoring but instead by a group of cyclist who arrived late then sat in the dining area talking until nearly midnight. I was wakened by them but pushed my ear plugs in tighter and was alright but Moira told me in the morning that she couldn't sleep for the noise and got up and gave them a piece of her mind. They got the message and it stopped.

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 2 May 2012

Day 36

 

Ourense to Cea. 21km

 

 

As we were coming into Ourense yesterday Moira remarked that the hills behind the city didn't look very big. I said that they were big enough if we have to go straight up to cross them. I didn't realise how prescient I was.

 

When we got up this morning we didn't bother being quiet and pussy foot around. The cyclists were having a lay in after their late night and we weren't bothered about disturbing them. When we left there was no problem finding the route after sussing it out yesterday afternoon. On the way we called in at the other big church in the centre, Santa Eufemia, it was very impressive on the outside with a large bell shaped tower and lovely carving on the stonework but inside it was plain with no interesting features. We just had a quick glance round then got on to following the route out of the city. We crossed over the Rio Mino by the old multi-arched bridge and through the outskirts to the N120. It was then along this busy highway for 2km to the village of Quintela where we took a minor road and met the hill I unfortunately predicted. The book said it was 1.5km long but it felt much more, maybe it was because it went nearly straight up all the way. It was a killer and Moira was back to her old ways of stopping every few minutes for a rest,even with the aid of her inhaler. I had to cajole and bully her to keep her moving and it was a relief for both of us when we reached Castro de Beira at the top. Someone had conveniently put a bench on the 'summit' and we took full advantage, along with a refreshing drink of cold spring water from a fountain close by.

 

From now on the poor route of yesterday and the earlier part today were things of the past as we picked up the narrow walled lanes and leafy by-ways of previous lovely sections. It made its way through wooded countryside and the noisy busy traffic was a distant memory. We were on the Camino that we had become used to again. There was the call of the cuckoo that we had been hearing all the way from Sevilla added now by the distinctive sound of the woodpecker, unseen but heard as he drilled his way into the bark of some tree. What we didn't like was the weather, what had started out alright changed to showers and it was on and off with our ponchos and rucksack covers all morning. The problem now was that the temperature was much higher and we were warm, especially in the ponchos and while still wearing fleeces. Eventually we took off our fleeces and it was pleasantly cool, such a difference from the freezing cold of a few days ago in the mountains and snow.

 

We only had one stop today other than the forced 'pit-stop' at the top of the 'mountain'. It was at the village of Reguengos where we had coffee from our prepared flask. When we finished at Cea it was raining heavily, continuing through the afternoon. The only others at the albergue were our friends, Suzanna and Almont, they said they found a hostal to stay last night in Ourense. Moira went out to find a shop or supermarket before they closed for siesta while I found us bunks and had a shower. When Moira came back she was loaded with bags of food, she said other peregrinos who were in the supermarket she had discovered looked open eyed at the a amount she had purchased, it was like a weekly shop to some of them.

 

There was a good kitchen at the hostel and we had soup and bread for dunking for lunch. We didn't go out in the afternoon, the weather was miserable, so we spent the time cataloging and updating our photographs of the Camino. Later when the rest had gone out for dinner we had ours, a salad with the rest of the chicken from yesterday followed by strawberries and yoghurt, a lot better than we would have got at the bar. The albergue was getting busy, a lot of cyclists again and some people starting their pilgrimage here, it was just 100km to go, the minimum requirement to get a certificate and atonement for your sins!!

 

We were in bed early, before the others returned from dinner in the bar. When people began coming upstairs to the dorm the lights switched on and off every minute and wakened me. I realised they were on a photo-electric switch and every time somebody used the stairs they came on. The problem was that the design of the place was open plan, so the dorm was lit up like Blackpool illuminations. This wasn't so bad as people were going to bed but when I got up in the middle of the night to go to the loo which was downstairs the lights came on, while in the toilet they went off and then on again as I climbed the stairs back to the dorm. In the morning most of the peregrinos were complaining, that and the snoring doesn't help in getting a good night's sleep.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Thursday 3 May 2012

Day 37

 

Cea to Castro Dozon. 14km

 

With the disturbance of the brilliant lighting system I didn't sleep very well and got up at 6:00am. I went to the kitchen and made myself a large cup of coffee, sitting quietly until Moira came down about half an hour later. We had breakfast and quickly packed up for an early start, 7:30am today. There are two routes out of Cea to Castro Dozon, the official way of about 14km, or the alternative through the town of Oseira which has a Cistercian monastery but is 20km. We chose the shorter option. Cicerone wasn't very clear about which way to leave Cea for either route but two young guys told us to follow them and came to a point where the waymark had arrows going right or left, take your pick.

 

It was a pleasant enough walk for the first hour, even though it was mainly on tar over minor roads. Then it began to rain, we didn't think at first it was going to come to anything but the sky turned completely grey and it came down in torrents. Now we were walking off-road through wooded countryside which would have been very pleasant in dry sunny conditions and the paths were running streams. Initially we tried to keep our feet dry by skipping around puddles but eventually they were soaking and we just waded through everything.

 

The plan had been to do about 28km today but with the horrible weather we decided to stop at the albergue in Castro Dozon. We followed the directions and arrows which led to a house that could have been the hostel but there was no sign or name plate, and it was closed anyway. We shelter under the porch and had the coffee from the flask with an apple. The Frenchman who snores with his partner arrived, and tried the door; as if we would be standing outside in the cold and rain if it had been open!! He attempted to phone the hospitalier but no reply, so we left our rucksacks outside and headed for the bar in town. On the way we met a local who informed us that where we had gone wasn't the albergue and redirected us. Up the hill again, collect our bags and make for the right place. It didn't look very inviting, a bit like three portacabins, one for the dorms, one for the toilets and showers and another for the kitchen. But it was cold and wet so any shelter would have been welcome.

 

After showering we had soup and dunking bread again for lunch and that warmed us up. As usual when you get stranded in these places early there is nothing to do and the rain didn't help. There was a break and the sun came out briefly mid afternoon but all we did was exchange one boring room for another, in the nearby bar; at least it was much warmer. When leaving we discovered there was a small supermarket behind the pub and instead of having to wait until 8:00pm to come back here for dinner we bought a pizza and some eggs, this did our meal back at the albergue.

 

When we returned, just in time the rain was starting again, the place had filled up. It was mainly cyclists, only three other walkers had appeared, the others must have soldiered on in these monsoon conditions. Once dinner was over and still nothing to do I put some music from the iPad on, nobody seemed to mind and it cheered up the evening. It was off to bed early, dreaming that maybe tomorrow we would rediscover 'sunny Spain', and slept very well for a change.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Friday 4 May 2012

Day 38

 

Castro Dozon to Silleda. 29km.

 

I slept quite well last night, it is strange how a rough and ready arrangement of portacabins can work well. When I got up to the loo about midnight a lot of the cyclists were still up but In the kitchen cabin well away from the dorms so their talking didn't disturb anyone. Also it was very easy to slip out of the dorm quietly and over the decked area to the toilets. The only problem was that it was cold and wet, the rain still pouring down, the set-up was more congenial to hot summer conditions.

 

We were also able to move out of the dorm and over to the kitchen in the morning without disturbing the still sleeping bikers. We had breakfast and packed our bags there and away before seeing anyone except the French couple of peregrinos. The rain was off when we began but the sky was still dark and I didn't hold out much hope for a dry day. We thought about sticking to the N525 all the way and have it dry underfoot but it was a busy road and our shoes were still soaking from yesterday anyway, so we followed the yellow arrows.

 

It was good that we did keep to the actual trail because it turned out to be a fine walk. It was on some minor roads and lanes through sleepy hamlets and on gravel tracks along walled lanes. The profile was up and down, meaning that the route had drained fairly well and we didn't have a lot of puddles and streams of water to wade through like yesterday. We had mild and dry conditions for the first hour but then the rain started, it didn't seem as heavy today but it was continuous for two hours. What was peculiar was that ahead we could see bright sky and obvious dry weather but it was always out of reach and didn't get any nearer. I concluded that the clouds were dropping all their rain on us and those a few kilometre in front were enjoying a lovely sunny day.

 

At the little town of Botos de Abaixxo we missed the turning and went straight on for about half a kilometre before somebody told us we had gone wrong and redirected us. When we reached the turning the French couple who we had overtaken near the start had caught up, it was frustrating. This was the place we intended to make for yesterday but for the rain, there was supposed to be a albergue at the railway station. We saw the railway line and the station but no sign indicating a hostel. From here it was 6km to the next fair sized town of Laxe, we had enjoyed a short spell of dry walking but now the rain came in full force again.

 

When we reached Laxe the route went past the albergue, it didn't open until 1:00pm, another ninety minutes, it would have been very annoying if we had planned to stop here. Instead we were heading for the next town of Silleda but first we headed for the first bar to get out of the rain. It was called 'Ma Jose' and had been advertising with fliers posted all along the route. The huge log fire burning in the corner was a welcoming sight, two cyclists were already in front of it drying off but kindly made room for us. Once out of our ponchos and rucksacks with sat in the warmth with hot 'cafe con leche grande' and lovely ham bocadillos.

 

It was soon time to brave the elements again but it was a pleasant surprise to find the rain had gone off. I kept my poncho on, I've become superstitious in that when I take it off the rain soon begins. The route now more or less followed the N525, some parts close to it through shabby back yards of workshops, others in detours through hilly and nicely wooded countryside. Just before coming to the highway again we passed far below between the columns of the railway viaduct over the Rio Deza before using a more ancient fording of the river. This was a beautiful 10th century bridge, Ponte Taboada, and a footpath paved Roman style with huge boulders that led up the hill to the village of Taboada. Here we had a rest, my back was sore as usual in reaction to over 20km. There was only 3.5km to according to the book, but it was confusing. We could take the busy road or follow the arrows and the scenic route which was 1.5km longer. We went scenic and it turned out to be 1.5 longer than the 3.5, so it was 5km, and the rain started, and it was through what could only be described as a swamp. I was not amused and did not appreciate what would have been a delightful finish to the section on a dry warm sunny day.

 

Eventually we got to Silleda that we had seen from the road before taking our detour through the woods. It was a large place and the arrows led us to the centre. We were making for a private albergue that we picked up a card for last night. We got directions from a few locals and it turned out to be rooms above a bar but it also gave the use of a kitchen. It was a double room we got not a dorm,for only E20. It wasn't en suite but the toilet shower was opposite our room, and after we were cleaned up I made coffee in the kitchen. I gave my shoes that were covered in mud a scrub and a wash in a sink out on the veranda. I left them out to dry but it didn't look promising, the atmosphere was very damp and humid with all the rain.

 

We had dinner in the bar downstairs at 7:00pm and what a feed it was. We started with an enormous tureen of home made vegetable soup, Scottish style, we both had two big plates full and there was still half left. Next the man appeared with a huge platter of salad to go with our large pork fillets and chips. There was a sweet, a bottle of wine and coffee included for just E10 each. After that we were full, this walk was supposed to keep our weight in check, the way we've been eating a diet may be required when we finish.

 

When back in the room it was off to bed where we lay and listened to music on the iPad before getting to sleep. It was another good night's rest with no snoring or lights going on and off to disturb us.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Saturday 5 May 2012

Day 39

 

Silleda to Ponte Ulla. 20km.

 

It was another case today of a really beautiful and enjoyable trail if the weather had been dry and sunny. It wasn't as bad as some days that we have had recently, none of the showers were particularly heavy or prolonged, it was just the they were so frequent. Every time we were forced to put on our ponchos the rain would stop after a few minutes. Off they would come only for the rain to begin a little later, it was like that all through our walk. Again we were frustrated trying to work out where the clouds were moving from and to, we could see blue sky in most directions but not over us, we usually had a dark cloud overhead.

 

It was 8:45am when we set off this morning, our target was Ponte Ulla only 20km away and the book said that there were plenty of rooms at bars for accomodation rather than the town with an albergue that was 5km further on. So it was going to be an easy stroll for this section. Our shoes hadn't dried overnight so although we had dry socks to wear they soon got wet from the shoes.

 

Getting out of Silleda turned out to be very simple, the main street became the N525 which we followed for a couple of kilometres. We thought about staying on the road but when the arrows led into the countryside that was the choice our feet being wet already. Again the track just ran close to the highway at first, but soon moved away through farmland and nice wooded areas. It was a fine day at first with patches of blue sky for a change but as we approached Bandeira the rain started. After donning our ponchos I looked for a bar or somewhere to go for shelter. We ended up under the overhang of a car workshop, out of the rain we had an apple and a drink of water until the sky cleared again. While we were there an Austrian guy who stayed at the same rooms last night came past, he had left before us this morning. He was either very slow or had gone somewhere for breakfast. We overtook him later, he is slow.

 

The route was undulating, with some stiff climbs followed by knee jarring steep downhills. Now in the forested areas there were lots of eucalyptus trees standing tall straight and majestic, reminding us of our time in Australia. Coming to the small village of Dornelas it had been raining and our ponchos were still on. There was a climb to the hamlet and the sun came, we were very hot. It was time for a rest to cool off and sat on a wall at the old 12th century Romanesque church. No sooner had we settled but the rain came on again, instead of the pleasant church setting we retreated to a dismal bus shelter for a drink from the flask. It's starting to get annoying as the sky turned blue again as we sat there.

 

It was more on and off rain, far away blue skies but at least no wind as we made our way up hill and down dale through more farmland and woods with plenty of chirping birds seemingly perfectly happy with this weather. On reaching the village of Seixo we found the bar that Cicerone mentioned and it was open. It was dry and warm, there was coffee and bocadillos, we sat there for half an hour. The Austrian guy eventually got there as well, then a couple we hadn't seen for a few days, he was also Austrian but his girl friend looked oriental. I had given this pair some sugar at an albergue, from the supply I pick up at cafes and bars that they give with coffee, and he remembered. The French couple who stopped at Laxe yesterday poked their noses in the door but didn't stay, if they were heading for the next albergue at Outeiro they still had 9km to go, and having already covered 29km it was along stint for them. Moira reckoned that they had probably stuck to the road which was much shorter.

 

The last 4km for us was all downhill and very steep as the road dropped down to cross the Rio Ulla. All the way down we got magnificent views of the enormous new railway viaduct that connects the hills on either side of the river, this viaduct was designed to mimic the columns and arch of the smaller Roman bridge which runs parallel and behind the newer version. Even though it was again pouring with rain it was a must to stop and get some photographs of this extraordinary sight. Where we crossed the river was a bit further on by another old bridge which was much superior in appearance to the modern motorway version next to it. On the other side of the Rio Ulla there was a bar/restaurant/pension, Moira went in, yes there were rooms available, E24 for a double. We stopped there.

 

The room was alright, it was en suite and there was an electric heater. We got out of our wet shoes and socks, washed our dirty clothes then draped them over a chair in front of the heater to dry. After showering I made tea, Moira managed to get Tetley tea bags at the supermarket in Silleda, on the little cooker. We had more to eat to keep us going until dinner at 7:00pm. It was another enormous tureen of soup to start, this time we finished it, then it was some nice grilled fish for a change. While we were eating in the bar I could hear the TV, it was football and I only discovered when we came through to pay, that it was the FA Cup final that was on. There was only about ten minutes left to play and Chelsea were 2-1 up against

Liverpool. I watched the remainder and that was how it finished, we could have sat in the bar for our meal and seen most of the game.

 

When we got to bed the sky above the hills that we could see from our window was completely blue, not a cloud in sight. Does this promise a sunny bright day for our entrance into Santiago tomorrow. I certainly hope so.

 

 

Via de la Plata

Sunday 6 May 2012

Day 40

 

Ponte Ulla to Santiago. 20km

 

It had been raining through the night and there were still a few spots dropping when we left at about 8:00am for the final stage of our journey to Santiago. We had our ponchos on but had packed away our tights and didn't require anything on our hands, we were at the lowest altitude of the Camino and it was feeling quite mild. Last night Moira had gone to the supermarket for bread and milk, and discovered a great view point of the viaduct and Roman bridge from there, so we took a slight detour for some pictures. It was a good spot and the ancient stone structure could be seen like a reflection of the viaduct in front.

 

When we left Ponte Ulla the traffic sign said, 'Santiago 20km'. The route then took a very steep Roman style boulder paved path to climb up from the river. When we rejoined the N525 about 5 minutes later the traffic sign now said, 'Santiago 17km', that was the fastest 3km we've ever walked. The arrows soon took us away from the road to a good wide path that continued to climb through the trees. When we reached the top of the hill it was feeling very warm and the clouds had broken, it looked like being a nice day after all. There were still some wispy misty clouds hanging low down in the valley over the river and village, it made a lovely vista as the track made its way now over the ridge of the hill overlooking the valley.

 

Today's walk was similar to the previous two days, nice paths through farmland and forests of tall eucalyptus trees. The difference now was that we had fine sunny weather and that cheered us up, putting a spring in our steps, and not burdened with our ponchos. We had our first stop near a hill, Pico Sacro, for an apple and water. Cicerone suggest a detour to the top of the hill to visit a small church, Ermito de San Sebastian, we didn't take up the offer. The profile was undulating after that and still more eucalyptus trees, all standing very tall and straight. The area was now becoming more and more populated as we got closer to Santiago, and richer with some big fancy expensive looking villas.

 

At the town of Susana we had our coffee from the flask in a bus shelter, not due to rain, it was still sunny, but because it had a seat. It was now only 8.5km to go and we planned to have lunch at the Capilla de Santa Lucia, in another hour or 4km, that Cicerone recommended as a quiet sheltered spot for a final break and rest. It was anything but quiet there, a festival or fiesta was taking place. There were crowds of people and cars, food stalls and bars had been set up, while an open air service was taking place in front of the church. Also causing a great deal of noise was the banging of exploding shells and the crackle of continuous gun fire from the crest of the hill on the other side of the valley. We had been hearing these explosions all morning, now much louder, obviously something to do with these celebrations. We found a spot on a wall above a large stream where we got water to boil on the cooker for tea. We received some strange looks from those attending the service as we sat with our mugs of tea and sandwiches. While we were sitting on the wall a young lad had climb up to the top of the bell tower for some reason. As we packed up to leave he began to vigorously ring the bells, this signalled the arrival of a procession and the music of a band. They marched along the road and into the church, all the women and girls dressed in traditional costumes. The band, which was unusual by playing what sounded more like 'trad jazz' than anything Spanish, didn't enter the church but stopped playing then went off for a smoke instead. We continued for the last 4km to Santiago.

 

It was another climb for about a kilometre along a lane enclosed in a wooden frame. It was all open at this time but vines were growing up the sides and in summer these will grow over the top and create a wonderful shaded avenue. On the crest of the hill we caught our first glimpse of the towers and spires of Santiago cathedral but they disappeared as we dropped down to go through the suburbs of the city. After 1000km of, on the whole, excellent route marking and signs Santiago has nothing, the yellow arrows are non-existent and not shell sign to be seen. They don't even have a signpost directing people to the cathedral, we had to ask the way and a kind local practically took us by the hand to the magnificent cathedral.

 

Now we recognised our surroundings we started to look for someplace to stay. We went to a few pensions and hostals but the cheapest we found was E36 and it was a dump, obviously we have been spoilt with cheaper accommodation out in the rural areas. We settled for one at E39, it wasn't bad and it was ensuite. After a shower we went in search of the peregrino office where we presented our fully stamped credentials and obtained our Compostela. Before searching for place to eat we had a walk round the cathedral, it is as magnificent inside as outside with the altar front just a mass of golden metalwork and carvings. As there was a service beginning we left, the one tomorrow for the peregrinos will be enough.

 

The prices for food and drink was as bad as accomodation, we went into a bar and had a glass of 'vino tinto', red wine, it was double the price we had been paying. We found a small restaurant where we had a tuna salad between us then hamburger and chips. With a bottle of wine this came to E27, our most expensive meal yet!!

 

We got back to the room and into bed early, we've booked to stay here another night so there is plenty of time for sightseeing tomorrow.

Day 34

Via de la Plata

Monday 30 April 2012

Day 34

 

Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia. 34km.

 

Today was an anticlimax after the wonderful walking of the previous sections. It promised well when we reached the village of Soutelo Verde after 3km on the road. Getting on to a farm track we began to gradually climb out of the valley to another small village, Tamicelas, where the serious ascent began. it was called Monte Requeixal, and it was a very steep continuous climb at first on narrow rocky paths but later the track broadened out and was smoother, but still going up. About half way up we had been walking for two hours and at a flat part we found a rock to have a break. Breakfast was provided at the pension this morning, but we just had our usual and took the two magdelane cookies and fruit juice they supplied for our refreshment now. While we were sitting other peregrinos went past, not bothering with a stop, and also mountain bikers who were reduced to pushing their bikes up this steep incline. Just before we got going again the rain came on spoiling what initial looked like being a nice day. The rest of the climb was now done wearing our ponchos and when we reached the road at the top the view was disappointing with heavy cloud over the hills and the valley below misty and hazy with the falling rain.

 

It was a short distance on tar to the village of Albergueria, the site of a former pilgrim hospital, and there was an albergue there. We had a look inside but the lady was cleaning, she appeared to be grumpy and not very welcoming to out 'Ola', so we sat outside on a bench for a rest and to stow away our rain gear, it had dried up again. From Albergueria it was on a good sandy path but still climbing up to the Cross on Monte Talarino. It was supposed to be only 3km but we could see the cross on the skyline that never seemed to get any nearer and more like 5km. Once at the cross, another erected for those who died on the Camino, our guide book promised excellent views on a clear day. Unfortunately it wasn't a clear day and we stopped to get into our ponchos again as the rain poured down.

 

From the cross it was a long descent into the valley on the other side. The first section of the path was completely flooded and we had to detour across a field to avoid it. From there it was hard going even though downhill with some steep and rough conditions to negotiate with our old legs. We could see the small town of Vilar de Barrio slightly up the hillside on the far side of the valley and it was another case of never seeming to get there. When we did make the valley bottom there was an annoying climb up the tarred road to the town.

Just before reaching the town square there was a supermarket where we got bread and a packet of soup for later, for now we found a bench in the square to have lunch. We watched other peregrinos arriving, some continuing along the route others making for the bar for their lunch. We saw Suzanna and Almont make for the bar.

 

We had 15 km to go to the finish for the day and my back was playing up, Moira had given me some painkillers and it took a few kilometres walking in agony before they took effect. The route to the next village of Padrosa was back to the monotonous long straight sandy road that we thought we had left on the Plata. It went on straight as a die ahead of us then when we saw some houses and thinking we had reached civilisation again it turned right and it was another couple of kilometres until we reached the village where we were looking forward to another stop for coffee. There had been more rain and the wind had risen before we stopped and we couldn't find decent shelter. We had to make do with benches on the village square. It took ages for the water to boil on the cooker with the wind but eventually we were refreshed and ready for the last 7km.

 

The day had been much of a slog up steep rough paths with no reward of a view, difficult and wet downhills and miserable weather, but this last section of the day made up for it all. We meandered through leafy walled lanes, up to a short ridge giving lovely views of the valley and the villages scattered through it. The lanes were lined with big old trees with crocked and gnarled trunks which would present a shadowy sinister spectre if strolling at sunset. This area was much more populated and the villages a lot livelier, with a lot of renovation and refurbishment of the old cottages and houses. After the village of Quintela, Cicerone said there was 2km to go but there was a sign saying 'Albergue 1km', what joy. It was a lovely place quite modern but a lot of pilgrims were already there and we had to make do with a top and bottom bunk unit, me on top. The Frenchman who snores and the other that doesn't close doors were there before us along with some new faces. Suzanna and Almont got in late, we had passed them about 5km before the finish of the day.

 

After securing our beds we headed for a well equipped kitchen and Moira made mushroom soup from the packet we bought at the supermarket. This we had with plenty of fresh bread and were feeling normal again, especially with the refreshing hot shower we had next. At 5:00 after siesta time we walked into the town, that extra kilometre, looking for a shop for some bread and milk for tomorrow, as the shops would be closed for the May Day holiday. As we have found in Spain they like to expand their public holidays and they obviously were having this afternoon off as well, it was like a ghost town. There was one place open, the cafe/bar advertised at the albergue, and here the woman was a bit more enterprising. We asked about the time for dinner and she indicated whenever we wanted it, there were some peregrinos already having their meal. When we came back later we were immediately ushered to a table, the menu was recited and it wasn't long before a lovely meal was in front of us. That's what you want after a hard thirty plus kilometres in the hills.