Day 1

Via de la Plata

Wednesday 28 March 2012

Day 1

 

Sevilla to Guillena 23km.

 

I didn't sleep well last night. First of all we had a guy in the dorm from the Ukraine who was very noisy, he would get on his phone and march up and down conversing at the top of his voice. Moira said he was restless during the night and his tossing and turning disturbed her. I said at least he didn't snore, Moira said he did, I'm glad I missed that? The hostel itself was noisy with doors slamming and people talking till all hours. Also I found my bunk very hard and uncomfortable which didn't help me in getting a good night's sleep.

 

The Ukrainian guy got up at 6:30 with a lot of noise and that was us wakened, just as I was enjoying a period of nice slumber. We got up and decided that we would wait and have our shower when we finished today's section. There was breakfast included in the price of the hostel and we went to the common room to see what was on offer. It was a continental breakfast, not much different from our usual, cereal, toast and freshly made coffee. We spoke with a woman, Alison, from California who was doing the 'Via' as well, she said there were a few others also walking and we met a couple of French ladies who were preparing to set off.

 

Once breakfast was finished I washed up the few dishes we used and we packed our rucksacks, getting on our way at 8:00. Alison told us that she read that the route was difficult to follow with a number of people kept getting lost, Moira also had read this in some people's blogs. We found it extremely easy and the way-marking was excellent with yellow arrows at all junctions and turnings, and also at convenient intervals along the straight sections to reassure us that we were still on course. We had no difficulty with navigation over this first stage from Sevilla to Guillena.

 

As we left the albergue the sun was just coming up over the horizon, it wasn't cold and the wind was only slightly more than a breeze. But it wasn't warm and we both had on our fleeces which also helped to cushion our shoulders until they get accustomed to the weight of our packs. The scenery wasn't very exciting on this section getting out of the city but once clear of the busy roads there was a nice walk on a path close to the Rio Guadalquivir. Soon we were on tar again when the sounds of rapid gunfire really woke us up, we were passing a rifle range and there must have some good shots practicing if the Olympic rings on the wall outside signified anything. The arrows led us close to the busy highway again as we made our way into Santiponce, roughly mid-way on today's route.

 

We stopped at Santiponce for a coffee, this was 10 km from the start and we had cover it in under two hours, we were moving faster than i thought. We met Alison from California at the cafe having her morning break, she was going to visit the Roman ruins here at a site called Italica before continuing. Santiponce is the birth place of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, best known for the construction of the wall which marks the northern limits of the Roman control of Britain. This was also a walk we had completed a few years ago across the north of England from Wallsend on the river Tyne to the Solway Firth.

 

 

 

After our break the arrows led us through the outskirts of the town, past the Italica ruins and round the highway interchange to a wide dirt road that went perfectly straight into the distance; Moira suggested that it was built by the Romans, it was typical of their construction techniques. The track was slightly undulating and there was a small river to negotiate. The guide book warned us about this and said we might have to paddle or if the water was particularly high take a 2km detour. Fortunately there hadn't been any rain and some pallets had been laid to walk over the low waters. There was another stream to cross before entering Guillena and here there was some balancing to be done over crossing stones, Moira didn't fall in this time as is her normal practice. As we were making our way on this stretch we could see other pilgrims in the distance and were gradually catching up with them. When we reached the first couple instead of overtaking we decided to have a break and had some of our lunch. Moira had filled the flask with coffee at the albergue this morning and boiled some eggs, we had this and an apple before heading into Guillena which we could see was about half an hour away.

The albergue in Guillena was at the sports ground and but when we got to the door found it didn't open until 2:00, we had half an hour to wait. There was a cafe attached to the hostel and we sat there until it was nearly opening time. There were about another eight people waiting so we got in the queue to hopefully get two bottom bunks. When the woman opened up we all had to take our shoes off before entering then had a long wait while she slowly booked people in one at a time. This seems to be the procedure which we found previously at all albergues. You would think that they would realise that the pilgrims had just completed a hard walk and wanted a bed and to deposit their packs, we are all honest and would come and pay later. We thought we would be alright for bottom bunks but as she booked you in she took you to the dorm and allocated the bunks. The dorm we were in only had a top and bottom left, we asked if we could go to another dorm instead, all her limited English response was 'no possible'. We had to accept this then prepared to get to the showers before there was a queue for them. As I was heading to the showers the woman got hold of me and indicated the other dorm and two bottom beds, so I took it we could move and did it quickly before she changed her mind. Once we had accomplished our move the showers were still free and the water was piping hot, just what was needed after a hard day's walking.

 

Now feeling fresh and clean Moira made some tea in the microwave in the small kitchen and had some bread and cheese with it to complete our lunch which we started earlier. We thought about dining out tonight and checked with cafe next door about meals and prices. They wanted to serve us there and then, but we said 'no later',this got a shrug of the shoulders and a sorry we close at 4:00. Instead Moira took a stroll into town and found a supermarket and we were eating-in instead.