Via de la Plata
Tuesday 17 April 2012
Day 21
San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca. 25km
We had breakfast of cereal, bread and jam washed down with fruit juice in the room, and then got going at 7:30am. The place was dead to the world and we went out the back door, the route through the bar was locked. If I hadn't paid last night there was nobody looking for money now and we could have left without paying. But we are honest and would have sat around probably for an hour waiting for them to come for their money.
There was no wind first thing and in the perfectly calm conditions it felt relatively mild. Even so, we weren't taking any chances and wore double t-shirts and shorts with our hands protected with our spare socks. We were looking for a bar for a hot coffee, as the 'VII Carreras' wasn't open when we left we hoped for something in the first village, Morille, only 4.5km away. But no luck there, everything closed except for the small albergue. I had a look inside, it had six beds and a shower/toilet, and it appeared that only one person had stayed there last night, we should have gone there instead.
The next town was another 10km, Miranda de Azan, and it was like a ghost town. There were two bars but both closed. The worst thing about, Miranda, was that it was off the route and we had an extra 2km to walk there and back for nothing. We didn't get our first coffee of the day until we were in Salamanca and until then had to make do with water to go with our apple and magdalenas.
The route today was varied and undulating. The countryside had changed back again to arable farming with large fields of wheat, about a foot high but still green. We got our first sign of Salamanca, away in the distance from the crest of a hill shortly after Morille but it was still about 15km of walking. It didn't seem to get any nearer and after our detour into Miranda we crested another hill where an information board gave us an account of the Battle of Salamanca during the Napoleonic Wars, and from there could now see the towers of the Cathedral. At that point I thought we must have been making good time and arrived very early but it was still another hour before we crossed the Rio Tormes over the Roman bridge and reached the albergue at the Cathedral. We got there shortly after 1:00pm and the hospitalier was just locking up for his siesta time but allowed us to leave our rucksacks inside. There were already a few other bags there and everyone has to return at 4:00pm for registration and bed allocation. The guy was the same hospitalier that booked us into the monastery in Alcuescar, he must do the rounds of church albergues.
Now rid of the weight from our backs it was easy strolling around the city centre with its magnificent buildings. We wanted to find the tourist info office but first made our coffee stop. There were only two others in the cafe, a couple of women from Jedburgh in the Scottish borders doing a tour of the Spanish cathedrals. They told us that the tourist office was closed until 4:00pm, one of them gave us a city map to help us get about. We decided to have a big lunch today instead of waiting until late evening again and found an Italian restaurant where we had salads and pizza.
For the rest of the afternoon it was spent just wandering about admiring the beautiful architecture of these wonderful old buildings. The cathedral in particular had intricate carvings on the stone work surrounding the doorway arch and figures were sculptured into sides of the structure and even all the way up the tower. Inside the cathedral huge pillars rose high, supporting a curved multi carved ceiling. Wherever there was a piece of stone the masons obviously couldn't resist carving and sculpting, it was one of the most impressive cathedrals we have visited.
We made our way back to the albergue for opening time and the French peregrinos, we have been meeting over the past few days, were there waiting. We had to wait patiently in a queue while the hospitalier took us individually and filled in his complicated forms before allocating us a bed. We were in a dorm with the French people, it was small and held four double bunks, I was on top again, and with all the people in at the same time it was a trifle cramped.
One plus for the albergue was that it had a kitchen of sorts, a microwave and a kettle, so before going out again we enjoyed a large mug of coffee.
We wanted to find a shopping mall; we had decided to buy a 'camping gaz' cooker as we were fed up not getting a hot drink regularly, and also to look at Netbook computers to replace the Kindle for reading. At the tourist info we got directions, the woman said it was 4km away and did we have a car or did we want a bus. She was amazed when we said we would walk, then told her that 4km was nothing having just passed halfway today towards Santiago. Yes, we crossed the 500km point this morning in three weeks, that's two days ahead of schedule.
The walk to the shopping mall was quite pleasant and we probably saw some sights away from the normal tourist routes. The stroll took us over the Rio Tormes by a more modern bridge then along the river banks. The weather had improved considerably, the sun was shining and the wind wasn't nearly as cold. We got our cooker and a pot at the sports supermarket 'Decathlon' and then had a look at Netbooks computers in a electronics store. We selected the one we wanted but the operating system was in Spanish, they would change it to English for E20 after we bought it. I said change it first, they wouldn't compromise so they lost the sale. Again I'm astounded at the supposedly severe economic climate especially in Spain and that businesses don't bend over backwards to secure a sale, I'm sure that they aren't getting many people buying computers at the moment.
It was 8:00pm when we were back at the hostel, we immediately made for the kitchen. We had sandwiches to eat as we had our big meal at lunchtime. There was a Norwegian guy there preparing for his Camino. He had done the first half to Salamanca last year and was back now to complete it. We got to bed shortly after 9:00pm, tired but not feeling fresh even after the extra 8km to the mall.
Via de la Plata
Wednesday 18 April 2012
Day 22
Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel. 16km
We left at 7:15am this morning just after the hospitalier open the door to let people leave. The French were just getting up while we had breakfasted long before. The weather didn't feel to bad, a bit cold but with no wind blowing and the shelter of the city buildings it was quite pleasant, but we still had a double layer of clothing and socks on our hands. Cicerone told us to head up to the city square where the tourist office was, through the archway opposite and then straight on following the road to Zamora.
It wasn't the best of starts on the busy city streets, over dangerous crossings and then when we cleared the outskirts it was along the side of the N630 to Aldeaseca de la Armuna, the first village 6.5km from Salamanca. After that we were on a wide path of hard packed earth which was much easier on our feet. The weather was now deteriorating fast, the wind was blowing and it was freezing again, we stopped and put on our ponchos to keep warm. Later when we were approaching our destination for the day it began to rain and it was showery all afternoon.
When we were at the village of Castellanos de Villiquera with 4km to go, the Norwegian guy we met last night caught up with us and we walked together to the albergue at Calzada. The hospitalier was there busy cleaning so we didn't have to go hunting for the key and were booked in right away and picked our own bed, no hassle. There was one guy there before us, he overtook us leaving Salamanca; he was German and we met him previously away back in Monesterio, he remembered us. Later one of the French couples from last night turned up and a German pair that we didn't know, that was the place full and later people were being turned away, either to try the local hostal or walk on for another 19km in now appalling conditions.
The albergue was alright, just the one small dorm and it did have a small kitchen of sorts, with a microwave for coffee and Moira managed to heat a packet of soup in it for lunch and even make a chicken curry for dinner. The showers could have done with some maintenance, the hose to the rose in the ladies was broken spraying water everywhere but on you, and in the gents the shower door was falling off causing flooding of the floor.
Moira had gone out to the village shop which was well stocked for food but I never ventured from the hostel all day. The visitors book had people writing that it was a lovely little village with very friendly people but it was too wet and cold to see for ourselves. About 5:00pm a Portuguese guy arrived, I told him it was full up but he proceeded to take off his rucksack and soaking wet jacket, I thought he was intending to sleep on the floor or something and I would be tripping over during my nightly visits to the loo. Fortunately he left with another two woman who arrived, to look for the Casa Rural hostal. These women had flown to Salamanca this morning from Madrid and started walking at lunch time. I said to Moira that people should have more sense than to leave so late for an albergue that has only eight beds but when we thought about it we remembered that we did the same thing on our first Camino. We left St Jean Pied a Porte late in the morning to an albergue in the Pyrennes only to find it full and having to walk a further 19km to Roncevales. So we were just as stupid when learning the ropes.
The curry Moira made in the microwave turned out great and it was delicious. This was certainly an improvement on eating out, and we finished off with strawberries and yoghurt. The rest of the peregrinos were looking enviously at our meal. I discovered that there was an electric heater fitted into the base of the table where we dined, I soon got it running and we were now nice and snug and warmed inside with a hot curry.
Today was another case of finishing early and nothing much to do. After dinner we played at cards and Moira won again, then we chatted to the German guy and the Norwegian. The French couple had gone out for dinner and the other German couple went to bed about 8:00pm. We got to bed at 9:00pm and I slept alright for a few hours but got wakened by the Frenchman snoring,it went on for about an hour. That's the problem with albegues and dorms.
Via de la Plata
Thursday 19 April 2012
Day 23
Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino. 20km.
Last night everyone had put there rucksacks into the lounge area, obviously to make a quick getaway in the morning. We did the same and when we got up at 6:00am it just a matter of picking up our sleeping bags and slip out of the dorm without disturbing anybody. We had finished our breakfast again and started packing up before others appeared. We were first to leave at our earliest yet, 6:50 am.
It wasn't raining and there was no wind, yet!, but well wrapped up again anyway and had got our ponchos on right from the start to keep warm. For a change I was feeling if not warm at least not cold. The wind did get up and it was colder later in the morning but not miserable and depressing like yesterday. What was depressing was the route, more or less along the side of the Ruta de la Plata motorway all the way, and a straight line to beyond the horizon. Underfoot it was good going with a wide track on hard packed earth.
We made good time walking at a fast pace but our German friend overtook us within an hour. The Norwegian guy was the only other one near us and arrived at the albergue just behind us. The 'new' German couple didn't appear they seemed to be going on further. The albergue didn't open until midday when we arrived at El Cubo, and the German was the only one there waiting. As we had half an hour until,opening I got the new cooker out and made coffee while Moira went to the local shop for our dinner. The French couple pitched up while we were enjoying our coffee and stared with amazement.
The hospitalier gave us a room with two sets of bunks, presumably because we were 'matrimonial', the single men were put elsewhere. We thought the French pair would be beside us in the other bunks but they ended up with the men. they can't be married. When we got to El Cubo there was blue sky and the sun was shining, before doing anything else we got our washing done, with the sunny weather now and the wind still blowing it was good drying conditions.
Later while sitting down to our lunch of soup and lovely crispy Spanish bread, Stefan arrived. He had walked from Salamanca this morning, but he is young and strong, it was easy for him. It looked like it was going to be another afternoon and evening like yesterday, stuck together in a tiny room with nothing to do and cold. To break the monotony we had a walk round the village. There was nothing there of interest except the church, locked up as usual now, which had a plaque on the front in Spanish about the Comino. Also there was a cross in front with St. James and the iconic shells all round the base. Although the sun was out the wind was cold and not too pleasant for strolling, soon we were heading back. There was an opportunity to warm up outside the hostel, it was an open air exercise area with fitness equipment, we had a go on all of them but it was still too cold.
Moira made a big pot of pasta for dinner, there was a ring cooker in the kitchen. It was made with shell pasta, mussels from a tin, cherezo sausage,peppers and herbs and spices, all in one pot. Later all the others went to the bar to eat and we got to bed early. Moira read from the iPad but I got to sleep. It was lovely and peaceful all by ourselves and I slept like a log. Th rest night's sleep I've had in ages.
Via de la Plata
Friday 20 April 2012
Day 24
El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora 32km.
We were both awake at 6:00am but we didn't rush to get away. I made coffee which we had in the little dorm that was all our own, such luxury for a change. The rest of the peregrinos were getting up and ready early this morning to get an quick start for some reason. Our plan was to leave a little later and take it easy today; it was a long section and there was plenty of accommodation in Zamora, the albergue itself has 32 beds.
There was only the Norwegian left in the hostel when we got going at 8:00am, all wrapped up as usual. It had been raining when the others set out but now it was just spitting. It didn't seem as cold, maybe because the wind hadn't got up but the rain came again on in intermittent showers throughout the morning. The route didn't look very promising as we left El Cubo, instead of the N630 we were beside a railway line but only for a brief spell. As the day went on it improved considerably, there were twists and undulations that made it more interesting. The fields now were initially bright yellow with the flowers of rape, grown for the oil from it's seeds, then as we got nearer to Zamora there were acres of grape vines. Zamora is on the Rio Duero which flows down through Portugal to Oporto, the region designated to the cultivars for port wine, I don't know whether the grapes in this area qualify.
Not long after leaving the Norwegian caught up with us and was complaining about the weather conditions, the distance to Zamora and whether we should stop at the albergue in the first village, Villanueva de Campean, that we were coming to. I said no way were we only walking 13km to spend another day looking at each other. He tagged along behind us for a while then when we stopped for a break he went on and was soon out of sight. When we reached Villanueva there was no sign of him, we found the albergue but it was closed at this time of the morning; but it had a porch with some stone benches to sit. It was a good shelter and I was able to get the cooker going there, and brewed up some coffee.
From Villanueva there wasn't any other places listed in Cicerone on the route until we reached Zamora. It was a surprise then, when about 5km later there was a village ahead. The route took a loop round it and missed it completely. This was surprising as the Camino usually makes detours especially to take the pilgrims it visit and also bring business to the locals. The village was called San Marcial, maybe they don't want peregrinos!! From this point there was a long hill and on the crest we could see Zamora, still about 10km in the distance. There was short section on a tarred road before getting back on to a nice gravel track again, through the fields of vines.
At this time we were due another stop and I spotted a farm barn that we could shelter from the wind behind. When we reached it there was about five dogs tied up on long ropes all along the front of the barn barking like fury at us. I don't know what they were protecting but we ignored them and found a spot, between bales of hay, to sit comfortably for lunch. Once we were settled the dogs calmed down and everything was peaceful again.
Shortly after we were going again the sky cleared and the sun was warm for a change. Off came the ponchos which were being blown about by the still strong wind, and it was much easier moving. The Portuguese Camino joined the Via de la Plata with 6km to go to Zamora, and we had markers counting down the distance in kilometres from there.
Zamora was a beautiful city, as we approached there was a rewarding view of a magnificent cathedral on top of the hill above the Rio Duero. We crossed the river by a lovely old bridge, Puente de Piedra, then climbed a steep hill to the albergue. It was another of the type run by an officious old dear who had to do everything by the book. Form filling in first, then bed allocation followed all the rules and regulations. She then had to show us the kitchen and point out a cooker, fridge, waste bins etc as if we were completely stupid. I suppose the British treat foreigners that can't speak English the same way, as if they are mentally defective. One negative was the bunks, we were both given top ones, but these were very high from the floor and Moira was not happy at all with this, she was frightened about clambering in and out of bed at that height.
The kitchen was first class and Moira made a avocado salad and cooked a vegetarian pasta with food she had managed to get at some small shops that opened up after siesta. Stefan and the other German guy who is called Michael were here and in the same dorm. They had got here before 1:00pm, they were moving. We haven't seen anything of the guy from Norway, nobody knows what happened to him.
Before going to bed I took a walk to find the route for the morning. We were near the city centre and it was another place with some beautiful buildings, statues and magnificent architecture. I followed most of the route through the centre which was busy now, the Spaniards eat and entertain late, people all clothed in heavy coats
looked at me as if I was mad in shorts and sandals without socks.
Via de la Plata
Saturday 21 April 2012
Day 25
Zamora to Riego del Camino 35km.
Both of us didn't sleep very well last night with the snoring and the thought of climbing up and down from the very high top bunks. I was for once in a good sound sleep when somebody's phone alarm went off, it was 5:15am. I waited to see if anyone got up but nobody moved, I waited for fifteen minutes then I got up and gave Moira a shake as well. Down in the kitchen everything was nice and quite and we had our cereal and coffee in peace until the woman hospitalier arrived. She couldn't just mind her own business but pestered me about how to dry dishes, wipe the draining board and tell me that my water was hot enough for my coffee. It wasn't near boiling but the Spanish seem to like their coffee lukewarm, that's how you get it I'm the bars anyway. This old dragon fussing about forced us to get ready quickly, so we were packed and gone at 6:30am, our earliest yet.
I was able to lead the way to where I sussed out the route out of Zamora last night. After that it was a bit difficult in the dark and we were worried that we may have gone wrong, but a familiar yellow arrow conveniently appeared and we were happily on our way. The Camino basically followed the N630 all day, but we were on broad tracks of gravel or hard packed earth some distance from the road, so we were never really conscious of it until the route crossed it or we walked on it for a couple of very short distances.
The weather was varied, when we started with our ponchos on we were so warm that they were soon back in our bags, but later it rained and the cold wind picked up, on went the ponchos again. There were on and off all day. We thought as we approached our destination of Riego and the sky was blue it had changed for the better but,no, there was one black cloud and down came the heaviest shower of the day. The scenery was also varied we had at the beginning endless fields of wheat and rape, fortunately the track was undulating and took a number of bends to make it more exciting and interesting. When we left the village of Montamarta where most of the people leaving Zamora would stop for the night there was a castle like structure on the top of a hill, the Shrine de la Virgen del Castille, and was overlooking a large depression in the land, this was the Ricobayo reservoir which was completely dry. Further on there was a reservoir,Embalse del Rio Elsa, which had plenty of water and at the end of it was the ruins of a castle dating from Roman times but used up until 18th century as the seat of the Knights of the Order of Santiago.
When we reached Montamarta we stopped in the village square and had coffee from the flask. While there Stefan came along, he had been with Michael but he had gone to find the albergue to stay there. Another couple of guys also caught up but they also stopped for a break before carrying on. When we left we were in front again, Stefan had gone to the bar for breakfast. Montamarta was one of these villages you see at a distance and the track winding in different directions never seeming to get there; I said to Moira that after a long walk and finishing here it would be frustrating that you were never going to get to the albergue. What should happen but the same thing for us coming to Riego, we had 35km in our legs and back and the track was never ending even though we could see the town all the time and not appearing to get any nearer.
I struggled a bit today on the last 10km, the side of my left foot was sore and my back was in agony. I took a couple of pain killers and they helped to get me to the finish. The albergue was basic but there was free beds and we got two bottom ones on a double bunked dorm. Once we dumped our bags we headed to the bar for lunch. It was on the N630 which passed through Riego, it was also pretty basic. We asked for something to eat and the woman offered us salad and a chop and chips. She put us in a store room at the back where we ate, it turned out very nice and appetising.
When we got back to the albergue we had showers and then got to bed for an hour, not so much for a siesta but to keep warm. The woman came later to stamp the cards and fill in her forms, once
that was completed she was off, no problem, that's what we like. Stefan had arrived first in the hostel and we joined him for another meal at the bar in the evening along with a Swiss woman and a German one who stayed at Zamora last night. This time we had soup followed by egg and chips. Not luxury meals but we enjoyed them.
Via de la Plata
Sunday 22 April 2012
Day 26
Riego del Camino to Tabara. 34km.
It was another long and tiring day today but it was worth it as the scenery was outstanding. At the start heading to Granja de Moreruela it looked as if it would be more of long straight tracks through endless fields of wheat and rape but after Granja it all changed. The route went through nice woodland where the track was enclosed by hedgerows of bramble bushes and probably wild grape vines with the bright red of the occasional poppy adding colour. There were hills as well not serious ones but they made the journey interesting and rewarded us with fine views. The best of the day was when on the tarred road it took us down to the Rio Esla and over a many arched bridge. The river cut a small gorge through rocky cliffs as it flowed into the dammed area of the Embalse de Ricobayo reservoir that was passed on the walk yesterday. Once over the bridge the usual wide gravel tracks we had become used to disappeared and we were on a narrow rocky path winding its way above the river and ascending a rocky cliff to give panoramic views of the whole stretch of the river. This small section was the best of this Camino so far, and we enjoyed this tricky path was some minor scrambling over rocks. It was a slight anticlimax after that as we returned to farm land and straight earthen tracks. The section between Faramontanos de Tabara and our finish at Tabara was spoilt by lots of new road construction work and diversions to the route, but it didn't dampen the enjoyment we had earlier in the day.
This morning after a very good night's sleep I was up at 6:00 am and had the cooker on for coffee. I thought with the small dorm to ourselves we would be quickly finished breakfast, packed and away, but it was 7:15am when we set out. What a change in the weather, no ponchos this morning, it was still cold and required socks on our hands but the sky was clear and there wasn't a breath of wind.
Later in the day when the sun was high we even removed our fleeces. The first time we have had them off in well over a week. Our pace was fairly fast to Granja but Stefan still caught up with us there after leaving about half an hour behind. He stopped there looking for a bar and breakfast, nobody else seems to carry any food with them.
At Granja there was a split in the route, you could either head for Astorga where it joined the French Route to Santiago or as we were doing make for Santiago via Ourense. Although the whole walk we were doing was termed the Camino de Santiago/Via de la Plata, at this point we actually leave the Via de la Plata and join the Camino Sanabres to Ourense. The albergue had been busy last night but some of these pilgrims will be taking the option to Astorga so things may get quieter from now on, hopefully!!
We reached Tabara at 3:00pm, both very tired, this had been the third long day in a row. My back had been sore again, the
pain beginning after 20km, but my foot was fine today. I used a different lacing system for my shoes, missing out the second top holes and so relieving the pressure on the sides of my feet. As we entered Tabara we met Stefan heading for the bar, he directed us to the albergue which was still a kilometre from the town centre, not what we needed after having done 34km. The good news was that there was plenty of beds and we got a couple of bottom bunks. We arrived in time as it started to fill up especially with a bunch of cyclists and resulted in a Spanish guy who stayed with us last night preparing to sleep on the floor. Everyone was moaning about the cyclist as the rule is that they get beds last after all the walkers, eventually the hospitalier sorted it out when she arrived and the peregrino got a bed, I don't know who she kicked out but there was a lot of shouting. I never actual saw the hospitalier, we had selected our own beds when we got there, showered and made coffee in the kitchen before she showed up. After sorting out the cyclist she disappeared again and we had to get our credentials stamped at the bar later. Moira filled our details in a book and put a donation in the box, that's the type of albergue we like. I still have one perplexing question: why do I have to remove my shoes before I'm allowed to enter some albergues but here the cyclists were able to wheel their bikes into the kitchen to store overnight?
There was a lovely kitchen here but unfortunately we had no food left and being Sunday Spain closes down. We were able to make tea and coffee but went to a local pub restaurant to eat at 8:00pm. We dined with Stefan, the Swiss woman, Suzanna and her German companion,???. The two woman had met last year when they were walking from Sevilla to Salamanca and agreed to join up this year for the completion of their pilgrimage. The meal was very nice, spaghetti for starters and chicken and chips for main course, all for E9.
We were back at the dorm for 9:00pm and straight to bed. I had found some ear plugs at the last place we stayed and they worked well. If anyone was snoring during the night we never heard them
No comments:
Post a Comment