Day 27

Via de la Plata

Monday 23 April 2012

Day 27

 

Tabara to Santa Croya de Tera 21km.

 

This morning there wasn't any rush as we were having a relaxing short walk of only 21km. We let the majority of people leave before getting up and having breakfast. Our meal was fairly limited today we only had a few slices of bread left, some jam, but plenty of coffee. It was 8:00 when we got going, there was one guy still in the albergue, he was staying another day to recuperate, injured and suffering with Achilles tendinitis.

 

It looked and felt alright as we went through the town but the buildings probably gave some shelter, because once out into the open flat lands the wind was blowing strongly and very cold. The ponchos were soon donned and they are very effective in keeping out the wintry blasts. Some dark clouds came over during the morning but there were only a few spits of rain. It did warm up as the sky cleared and the sun came out, I took my poncho off but Moira wasn't convinced and kept hers on until the finish.

 

As we left Tabara we could see mountains ahead of us. They were quite high but the Camino managed to find a route over a more gentle col. Once over, it dropped down into a wide fertile valley with another range of hills on the other side. There were three ranges of mountains running from west to east and they had to be crossed on the way north. It made more varied walking and the use of different muscles, though none of the climbs was particularly difficult or exhausting. Now Moira has her inhaler for the asthma she was diagnosed to have, she has a couple of puffs and flies up the hills, I have a job keeping up with her.

 

I had filled the flask before leaving and we had our break for a hot drink after two hours as usual. We found two tins of tuna in our food bag and scoffed these as well, this walking makes you very hungry. The plan was to have another stop at the bar in the village of Bercianos de Valverde which was reached an hour later but the place was dead to the world. There was no sign of a bar and if there had been one no doubt it would be closed. We just carried on for the last 7km to the finish instead. I fail to understand if the economy is so bad why doesn't the owner put up a sign pointing the direction to his bar. There is a small passing trade of peregrinos each day who would enjoy at least a cup of coffee why not make sure you capture it. Another example of this was when we left Tabara this morning Moira went into a supermarket on the square where the door was open, but she was told that they weren't open yet. We left and that was lost business for them, shops should grab at customers by whatever means,as they are like gold.

 

The albergue, Casa Anita, was at the far end of the village of Santa Croya. It was a battle across the valley to the village and also through the streets because of the wind. It had picked up and was now gale force and cold, it was like the east wind you sometimes get in Scotland especially around Edinburgh. I said to Moira that this cold wind probably blows all winter then come summer when it is hot there is not a breath of a breeze, that's when the whole place bakes. The albergue was a private concern and was very nice. It was only E11 each and they did dinner for E10. Unfortunately you weren't allowed to use their kitchen and for coffee there was a machine. I had a cup it was diabolical. Later we went out and found a bus shelter where I set up the cooker and made us a cup of coffee, I also filled the flask for later.

 

They had Internet and we were able to get up to date with downloads of the newspaper and our email. As it was so cold they had a big room with a huge log fire going, now we were very warm. The two German women, Suzanna and Amont were there but Stefan had gone on further today, maybe we will see him in Santiago. The women had their meal in the afternoon and it looked good, we waited until evening. There was a big bowl of pasta to start then we had fish with salad. I had a banana for sweet and Moira ice cream, we halved

them and had banana with ice cream.

 

While on the Internet earlier Moira found some photographs recently taken at O Cerbriera on the Camino Frances. It was snow bound and looked more like an Alpine landscape than sunny Spain. Its been cold where we are but surely it can't get that bad. This weather must change, mustn't it? What about Global Warming?.