Day 20

Via de la Plata

Monday 16 April 2012

Day 20

 

Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados. 29km.

 

Last night we packed our rucksacks before going to bed and this mor ing when we got up at 6:30am we quietly picked them up with our sleeping bags and slipped to the kitchen without disturbing anyone. We were breakfasted, packed and ready to go as others began to appear. I managed to get the flask filled today.

 

When we arrived at the town yesterday there was a few flakes of snow!!! And while we were having dinner it got heavier but soon turned to rain. This morning as we left it had all cleared and the sky was cloudless, it was still cold but the strong biting bitter wind had gone and it was pleasant walking, as we set out.

 

The first section after leaving town was flat but it was at a height of 955 metres, that was at Munro level for about 12km. In the distance and waiting for us was a big hill, Pico de Duena at 1140 metres, higher than Ben Nevis, with a long row of windmills on top. We had a rest and an apple before tackling the climb which turned out to be not so difficult, really an easy gradual incline over about 3km. I suppose it was a good place to stick windmills, it was blowing a gale there and it was cold like yesterday. We stayed on top to take photographs of the last of a series of wooden crosses placed along the route and also some with us beside at trig point on the summit.

 

The descent wasn't too steep and our knees held out for the long boring walk along a track next to the road. The road went on and on to the top of a hill on the horizon and when you got there it went on and on again to the next horizon. Also the wind that was blowing on the summit continued, it was freezing and we were directly into it; the only relief was during brief lulls when we felt the benefit of the sun. The first 'marked' point in Cicerone was 5km along this straight line at Cadazilla de Mendigos, pig farm, I wanted to make there for our lunch break but Moira was feeling tired with the push into the wind and we found some shelter in the trees. Once going again, much refreshed, it took half an hour to reach the pigs then it was just 8km to the albergue.

 

We were both battling by this time with the wind, the cold and the soul destroying relentless straight band of track in front of us. Suddenly there appeared a sign, ' San Pedro 2km', we thought it was much further. We had a five minute break and now joyfully made for our overnight stop. The route also change as we headed away from the road and climbed a wooded hill to see the little town a short distance down the other side.

 

The 'VIi Carreras' wasn't really an albergue but a bar with accommodation attached. We asked the barman for a double room and he had to go and enquire, when it was confirmed that there was one available we had to wait fifteen minutes while they cleaned it. I wonder how these people survive in business, when I come into a place advertising accommodation, at 2o'clock in the afternoon, I expect rooms to be ready and available. Our book described the accommodation as luxurious, it was at best adequate. We had a small double bed, en suite, with plenty of radiators that didn't work and it was cold. I immediately had a shower, the water was at least hot and I felt much better. I got into bed to keep warm while Moira showered. We both spent the afternoon under the covers keeping warm.

 

Moira went out after siesta and found a shop where she stocked up on some food. She also found that there was WiFi here and downloaded the newspapers. As dinner wasn't until 8:30 we had bread and jam, an apple and fruit juice in our room to keep us going while we caught up with the news on the iPad.

 

We were .joined for dinner by Stefan and some of the French pilgrims who were all staying elsewhere. There was a party of about twenty locals who were getting attended to first by just a couple of waiters and we were left for half an hour starving. Eventually when the food did come it was alright and plenty of it. We stated with a soup which I though was tripe and Moira said was some animals brains, then there was thick slices of the local ham but no veg or chips and to finish lemon cheese cake. As we were residents we seemed to get preferential treatment and much bigger helpings, which I don't think pleased the French.

 

I paid the bill before going to bed so we could leave quickly in the morning. It was a bit steep in comparison with what we have got used to, E60 for the set menu and our 'habitation'. Another complaint we had about the room was the piles of blankets on the bed, yes it was warm but we could hardly move. Moira said have they not heard of duvets here. Not one one of our better overnights, and certainly not luxurious.