EVEREST TREK : DAY 13

Day 13.  Dingboche  to Lobuche

Friday 22 March.

Our lodge at Dingboche, trying to get warm

On the trek today Brin taught us a Nepalese phrase, Nepal Ramrocssa, Nepal is beautiful. It most certainly is, especially this morning, the best section we have covered so far. When we stared off the sky was a brilliant blue but we were wrapped up in our fleeces, rain jackets, extra trousers, and gloves, assuming it would still be very cold after all the snow. This wasn't the case and when we reached the col we climbed yesterday we began stripping off and by the time we stopped for tea at Thukla I was only wearing my t-shirt. It was strange trekking through the snow with the sun as hot as Spain in winter.

From the col above Dingboche the terrain which was covered in glacial moraine yesterday, today took on a totally different aspect. It was a white wilderness, fairly flat and encompassed ridges and glistening snowy peaks. Fortunately there had been some trekkers or Sherpas out before us and the only discernible route was following their footprints in the snow.The scenery was breathtaking ( or maybe it was the altitude) but every time we stopped for a breather we captured the peaks from yet another different angle. After the col it was a fairly easy gradual ascent to our tea stop at Thukla, 4620 metres, only the altitude and thin air making it difficult. 

The Alpine desert

After our tea there was a steep climb to Thukla Pass. We could see the two large rocks marking the top but as we climbed they didn't seem to get any nearer. It was a long and difficult climb, we had done worse on the Jiri section, but the altitude and the thin air were slowing us down and gasping for breath every 50 metres or so. Overhead some mountain eagles circled, we wondered if these raptors were looking for any stray trekker who didn't make it. I met a trio of Indians from Delhi halfway up and when we got together at the top they all wanted to be photographed with a Scotsman, 72 years old and an inspiration, their words. There was another photo session when Moira arrived, another inspiration, a few minutes later. Looking back from the pass there was one magnificent view of Ama Dablam and the range of peaks adjoining it. The pass was covered in snow and it was a bit treacherous underfoot at first before dropping down to a more level section. This plateau had various plagues and memorials attached to the numerous large rocks to commemorate the many people who had died attempting to summit Everest. 

Our Indian admirers at Thukla Pass

When we crossed the pass it was beginning to cloud over and become misty. It was getting cold again, we had already put our fleeces on again but now had to add our rain jackets and gloves. Each time the clouds parted and the sun managed to break through it was hot again but we kept covered up. It was a short ascent to Lobuche with some snow and then slush to walk through. It was about an hour' s trek from the pass and Brin pushed on. When we reached the edge of the village Brin was waiting, he had already been into Lobuche, arranged our room at the lodge and was back to lead us there. 

Views from Dingboche to Lobuche

Lobuche was a bit of a dump but our lodge seemed quite good. We had really heavy duvets on the bed and the mattress was comfortable. We had 5 minutes relaxation on the bed to get our breaths back before heading down for lunch. In the dining room it was cold and the door to the outside was open. I closed it but the woman immediately opened it again. We had soup and a pot of tea, when Moira finished her soup she went to the room to get warm under the duvet. I stayed to finish the pot of tea and chatted to a French chap who had crossed the Cho La pass from Goyka. He said there had been very deep snow but he had crampons. He was only in his thirties, a mechanical engineer who had saved for 5 years then set out travelling. His name was Yoric and he is heading for Iran next. 

I gave up once the tea was finished, I was starting to get cold and I went to bed as well, it was a lot warmer there. When we came down at 5 pm to order dinner the fire was on and it was now very warm. Everyone was huddled round the stove but soon it got too hot and we moved out to the benches around the walls. We had fried noodles with cheese and vegetables between us for dinner then played at cards for a while. It was about 8 pm when the fire started to die down so we went to bed where it was much warmer under the duvet.

Message in the snow