EVEREST TREK : DAY 5

Day 5. Nunthala to Bupsa.

Thursday 14 March.

We both slept well last night, it was another glorious day as we went down for breakfast. The village surrounded by a circle of magnificent peaks. I had porridge again and half Moira's pancake. She said it was too doughy and should teach them how to make a proper Scots one.

Suspension bridge over Dudh Kosi (Milk River)

The trail this morning continued its rocky route all the way down to the suspension bridge over Dudh Kosi ( Milk River). I was stiff at first and my knees were sore with all the jarring from the high steps from rock to rock. The route was a lot drier this morning even though used by mule trains. A lot of the mules were stabled where we stayed last night at Nunthala.

Once over the suspension bridge we were going to stop at a small tea house for tea but they had no milk. We continued to climb up the other bank of the river to Jubing where Brin found a nice place that had milk for my tea. Earlier the Canadians overtook us but we didn't see them at the stop but the German woman that we had passed on the trail soon joined us.

Porter with his normal heavy l;oad

From Jubling the guide book said, one hour to Chokha then a further hour to Kharikhola where we planned to have lunch. It was a steady, steep in places, climb all the way. Moira got to Chokha with only one stop, she is improving, and we passed the German woman who had started before us. After Chokha it was steep and hard going with a lot more stops. Brin pointed out the Gompa on the ridge above us that marked the entrance to Kharikhola. There was a couple of Sherpas with enormous loads that we passed each time they stopped for a rest but soon caught us up, being much fitter and nimbler on their feet. Brin said they were business men not porters. They bought noodles, wine, toilet rolls, chocolate bars, and other luxuries cheap then hauled them to the higher villages to sell at a profit.

David and Julie having lunch

Even though it was hard we did this section from Chokha in an hour as well. We are now doing the times suggested in the guide book. The route passed by the Gompa and we were in the village, David and Julie were already there at the first eating place and had just finished lunch. We stopped there as well and had a flask of tea, noodle soup and what was left of the yak cheese Moira bought yesterday.

The guide book said there was a heart pounding climb from Kharikhola to Bupsa but when we started off it was a gentle downward slope. Brin pointed out Bupsa high on a plateau half way up a mountain on the opposite bank of the Dudh Kosi river. Kharikhola proper with some nice modern lodges was nearer the river and higher up the valley. A suspension bridge took us to the other side. Now the really testing hill began, it was steep and unrelenting all the way up. We took it easy and had lots of rests waiting for countless mule trains to pass. About half way up Bupsa became visible on the crest of the plateau and this gave us encouragement to push harder. We had another long rest when we stopped to talk to a chap from Switzerland who was on his way back from Everest.

Kharikhola

Soon we were in Bupsa with Brin waiting to lead us to our accommodation. We had a nice room with thick mattresses and soft pillows next to the loo. After a hot shower and dinner ordered for 7pm we relaxed with a hot cup of tea. Tonight we tried the Dahl Baht. We shared the rice and the Dahl or lentil soup that you pour over the rice but ordered an extra vegetable curry. By sprinkling chilli power over the curry it made it nice and hot and spicy. It turned out a very delicious dish. With some apple pie and coffee that tasted like coffee we had a good feed.

It didn't seem so cold tonight but we both wore our long-Johns again. I also kept my fleece on while Moira donned a vest. There was a socket in the room and I was able to charge up the iPad over night.