EVEREST TREK : DAY 14

Day 14.  Lobuche - Gorak Shep - Everest Base Camp (EBC) - Gorak Shep.

Saturday 23 March.

There wasn't a fire on in the dining room when we went down for breakfast but a couple of cups of coffee soon warmed us up. I don't know why they don't charge everyone an extra Rs100 and have a fire on all day. They only use yak dung for fuel and there is plenty of that about. 

Looking back towards Lobuche

We left at 7:30 am and arrived at Gorak Shep at 10 am. It had been a reasonable walk up the moraine strewn glacial valley. It was a classic U shaped valley with steep sides of rubble that the receding glacier deposited. The route was very busy with people in single file strung all along the narrow path. There were plenty of trekkers an the way down after their early morning climb up Kala Patthar, the black rock, for the best views of Everest. We were also ahead or with the Cancer Research party and met our first Scots of the trip who were with them. One guy was from East Kilbride and the other two from Ayr. 

The Cancer Research party

The profile was mostly a gradual ascent but there were a couple of killer hills, fortunately short. On one of them the Swedish trio caught up with us and I got there names this time, Sofie, John and Cecilia. John was taking it easy, he was suffering from a bad headache, but was still going much faster than us. At the top of the final hill we could see Gorak Shep down in the dip. Behind was Kala Patthar which we climb tomorrow morning. I thought it was to be a mountain but it was just a big hill, there wasn't even any snow on it. EBC was further up the valley and Brin said there were tents pitched there for an expedition but I couldn't see them.

Sofie, John and Cecilia from Sweden

Paul, Josh and Jessica were staying at the same lodge and were having lunch when we arrived. Our room was again basic but we should survive our one night here. We had lunch, mushroom noodle soup then set off for base camp. The route began over a very flat area and we were able to stride out, but soon the easy walking was at an end and the trail climbed up to a ridge that ran high above the the course of the old glacier. It was rough going at first with large rocks to scramble over but soon the ridge levelled out and we could now see the tents at EBC. We also saw some big birds pecking among the rocks, Brin said they were mountain hens, or Tibetan snow bird, and at Gorak Shep there were lots that came and ate from your hand. Moira wasn't going very well, she and lots of stops and was beginning to feel sick. She decided to turn back while Brin and I carried on, we were only about 30 minutes from our goal. 

Brin and I at Everest Base Camp

At first the ridge was level them dropped to cross over the rough glacial moraine. There was then a sharp climb to the flags and banners welcoming us to EBC. Lots of photographs were taken then I had a wander about. What was left of the glacier stretched from where we were to the icefall which was the start of the actual climb of Everest. There was an expedition assembling, their tents pitched in the far end of the camp, and porters regularly passing us with equipment along the trail. We didn't go as far as the camp, they don't particularly like tourists intruding. The Swedish trio were there when we arrived and as left the Cancer Research group trooped in. Although there wasn't a view of Everest from EBC this didn't distract from the magnificent panorama of mountains that surrounded the bowl in which we stood. There were glaciers and icefalls coming down on all sides and it was a place of history. Just before leaving I saw this bird with a yellow beak, it was black so I assumed it was a blackbird, I didn't expect to see one here.

Views from EBC

We made good time on the return doing it in an hour. The only strange occurrence was a guy wearing shorts heading towards EBC, he must have been frozen. I had three layers covering my legs. Moira had arrived back 15 minutes before us, she was freezing and said the lodge was a dump. The room was like a fridge and the dining room not much warmer. The fire wasn't lit until 5 pm and it took another hour to just take the chill from the air. We were well wrapped up waiting for dinner. We shouldn't have bothered, the meal was horrible, the pizza was doughy and the cheese on it tasted funny. We also had plate of chips, they were brown on the outside but raw inside.

Tea House at Gorak Shep

We went to bed at 7:30 pm and I was up to the loo every hour. There must be something wrong with my metabolism as I only go once during the day while trekking. The only trouble with getting so often was the noise the door made opening and closing, it probably woke up half the lodge. Also it was freezing and I took ages to thaw out again when back in my sleeping bag.