EVEREST TREK : DAY 18

Day 18.  Tengboche to Namche.

Wednesday 27 March.

South African flag at Tengboche tea house

Today we had a big disagreement, not between Moira and me, but with Brin. A few days ago I asked him for the route plan for our return. He said we would do a different route to Namche for a change. This would take us the other way round the big hill that we climbed to the Everest view point when in Namche previously. We would now go via Khumjung and Khunde. I confirmed this with him this morning before leaving Tengboche. When we came to the lodges just before the junction to Khumjung Moira suggested we stop at one of them for tea, only to be told that we would stop at one a little further on. Brin's little further on can be anything up to half an hour and he pointed to some other lodges around a far bend. It was then that I noticed the junction signposted to Khumjung and we backtracked to the previous lodges. That was when the argument started, he said we were going straight to Namche, I disputed this and said we had agreed on the different route. I got the map out and realised then that our guide couldn't read a map when I pointed out the villages we should pass through on the alternative route. He then said that he wasn't familiar with that route or how long it would take. I was now furious that we had been landed with a guide who didn't know this loop that was clearly marked on the map and described in the guide books. We finished our tea and were forced to continue along the normal direct route to Namche. He kept well back at the rear as we proceeded, either sulking or afraid of my wrath.

The day had actually started well, we both had a great night's sleep, warm and comfortable. Moira had done some coughing during the night and started me off. In the morning I took some antibiotics as well, just in case. At breakfast we spoke to Nick from SA, his girl friend was suffering from a queasy stomach and they decided to take it easy today. It was a lovely day, blue sky and warm for a change. Soon we were down to our t-shirts and wishing we had worn our shorts. The enormous hill from Phenke Tenga on the Dudh Kosi that took us nearly 3 hours to climb we now descended in slightly over an hour. We stopped for a cup of tea at the bottom, Phenke Tenga is the village with the water driven prayer wheels. When we started off again we met the Russian from the lodge last night on his way down, he said he had insufficient time and was heading back. Unbelievably his name was Boris. 

Himalayan scene

From Phenke Tenga is was up again and we made quite good time, Moira was suffering again but she maintained a reasonable pace with much fewer stops for rests than before. Plenty of trekkers were on the trail heading up but not many making for Namche. It was at Semasa, at the top of another steep climb that we had the argument, but from there taking the recognised route it was easy going as we followed the contours round the hill. I was very annoyed and strode out strongly with Moira endeavour in to keep up, and soon Namche was in sight. 

I thought about being petty and insist that we go to a different lodge to the one we stayed at before, the Nest, but decided to just go with the flow. When we got to the Nest, Moira insisted on an en suite room. We expected just an integral loo but there was also a shower and the water piping hot. This was our first shower in 8 days and we managed to wash our clothes in the hot water as well.

The dining room was warmish and we stayed down there reading

More Himalayan peaks

 after having soup for lunch. At dinner time we both had a delicious chicken curry. We went to bed early and read our books in our sleeping bags and under a heavy cover. The power points were working in the room and I managed to get the camera batteries, the iPad, the Kindle and the phone all charged. It was warm in the bedroom and we didn't have to get all wrapped up to get comfortable, the sleeping bag and the cover was enough.