EVEREST TREK : DAY 15

Day 15.  Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Gorak Shep - Lobuche.

Sunday 24 March.

 I didn't get much sleep last night with my frequent visits to the loo, so when we got up at 5 am to prepare for the climb of Kala Patthar I wasn't feeling very energetic. Also Moira was feeling queasy with an upset stomach. We had a cup of coffee and set off at 5:30 am just as it was beginning to get light. Others from the lodge had left earlier and used torches to find their way in the dark. 

Mount Everest

The climb started just a short distance from the village. Moira was exhausted after only a few metres of ascent and decided there was no way she would make it to the next level never mind the top, and turned back. I continued with Brin and after the initial steep section the track levelled out and we got our first view of Everest. We met Josh and Jessica, they had given and were on their way down, it was much too cold, they said, especially for people from Australia. I was feeling all right, I had plenty of layers on but my hands and feet were beginning to get cold. After the relatively flat section the track climbed again and I could now see the top, a crag of rock on top of a shoulder. The next ones we met were the Swedish trio on their way down from the top, they had left early and said that the view of Everest now was as good as it got, if I was feeling tired. Paul was soon after them, he had left Josh and Jessica and carried on to the top, he said it was worth making the effort.

Sunrise on the Everest range

I was beginning to struggle badly and I set my next objective to reach the shoulder before the final crag. I was doing five paces, stopping to get my breath then another five steps and so on. I was spurred on when the Italians, Franco and Rita, who we last saw having a rest day at Junbesi passed me, if they were going to reach the top then so was I. I kept repeating to myself the old Benoni Harriers mantra : Dannie's boys don't bale : this got me going. The rocky crag was more of a scramble than a trek but I managed it slowly. On the last few metres to the summit Brin grabbed my arm and hauled me up. But I wasn't quite there, another rocky pinnacle  pointed a few metres higher. Brin wanted to take my photograph on a ledge a little short of this point but I shimmied up on my hands and knees and got there. Been there, done it, but there was nobody handing out the t-shirts to prove it.

Made it, just, to the top of Kala Patthar

 

Everest from Kala Patthar

We stayed about 15 minutes taking photographs in these unbelievable surroundings. We were in the middle of the highest mountains in the world. Everest was a bit of a disappointment, the view of it no better here than it was after the first part of the climb up Kala Patthar. It didn't have a distinctive shape, and there was no snow, only a big black rock. The other mountains, Nutse, Pumori, Lintrem, Khumbutse and yet another aspect of Ama Dablam, and other snow capped peaks stretching into the distance made up the outstanding panorama before us while below at the top of the rubble strewn Khumbu glacier sat Everest Base Camp. This was the first time Brin had reached the top, on previous occasions when he had taken parties on the climb they had either baled or the weather was against them. The weather we were having was excellent. After the initial cold the rising sun in a cloudless sky had us sweating and off came a few layers as we began descending. 

The top of the World

It had taken 2.5 hours to reach the summit but only 1.5 hours to get down. I still struggled on the descent as I was thoroughly exhausted. On the flat section before the drop to the village we met the Cancer Research group on the way up. their leader didn't think they would all make it. Just before dropping down the final steep section there was a tremendous crack like thunder but the sky was still a clear cloudless blue. The noise was coming from the a hanging glacier on the mountain of the other side of the valley, a large section of snow and ice had broken away causing a huge avalanche. At the bottom Moira was sitting on a rock waiting for us. She was feeling much better though disappointed when I told her if she had only made it to the top of the first steep rise she would have got a good view of Everest.

A South African couple from the Karoo we met at Gorak Shep

The original plan was to head down again through Lobuche and on to Pheriche, but I was feeling so tired that we decided that Lobuche would be far enough. I relaxed at the Gorak Shep lodge and then had breakfast. Next I helped Moira with the packing, had another 15 minutes rest then set off. The climb out of Gorak Shep was a struggle with me now resting on every hill and thankful when a yak train held us up and a chance of an even longer rest. There weren't many people going down now but plenty on their way up. We met a Japanese woman who put me to shame, she was 77 and looking fit and strong. 

Once over the rocky undulating section it was flat or slightly down on the old glacier to Lobuche. We were striding out now and I was beginning to feel a lot better. We managed to cover the distance in 2.5 hours. The lodge we were in on the way up was full but managed to get in to the one next door. I think it was better, certainly much warmer. We and lunch then lay on our beds until 5 pm when we went down to order dinner. We played at cards with Brin and taught him 7's and card dominoes. For dinner we shared a delicious vegetable curry then headed for bed. I went out like a light and wasn't troubled with too many visits to the loo. In the middle of the night it got extremely cold and even the extra heavy blanket I had didn't keep me completely warm.

A final farewell to Everest

Not forgetting Ama Dablam