EVEREST TREK : DAY 4

Day 4. Junbesi to Nunthala

Wednesday 13 March

I didn't sleep very well last night and I was cold, we had worn long-Johns to keep our legs warm but I had to put on my fleece later, it was very cold. I was looking forward to breakfast as I expected the fire to be on again but no such luck. I had a hot bowl of porridge which got some life into me, Moira had her usual boiled eggs.

Scattered Nepali farms

It was a lovely day when we left and we expected to get our first view of Everest when we reached Everest View Lodge but when we got there cloud had gathered over it and the other high peaks. The route climbed fairly steeply initially but other than a few short sharp hills it then tended to follow the contour. The farms here were a bit bigger with a few of the terraces below the houses under cultivation. We passed two houses that appeared to be abandoned but Brin said the owners lived in Kathmandu, came in spring to plant the crops and returned for the harvest, a long way to come for a second home. At the tea house with the view point we had some yak cheese it was delicious.

Solar cooking

The walk after our tea break was easy following the contours and we made very good time. Where the route began to drop the Canadians caught up and passed us, their names are David and Julie, he works for the forestry in Canada. Before heading down Brin pointed out where we were heading on the hillside on the other side of the valley. Another village down by the river, Ringmu, was where we intended to have lunch, and our destination just a little further up the hill.

It was an easy descent and we kept up a good pace on smooth paths to a metal suspension bridge. From there it was a very steep climb to Ringmu, we had misunderstood Brin and our guide book said that Nunthala was over the pass, Tuksindu La, and on the other side of the hill. We needed our noodle soup for strength for the coming ascent. It was a lot longer and harder than we thought. The guide book said one hour but we took 30 minutes more. There was a large chorten at the pass and Brin was waiting as we struggled up the last slope. A German woman and her porter were at the top as well. She was at the lodge in Junbesi last night and had lunch at the same restaurant as us earlier. She left before us but we passed her again a short distance down the other side. As we were leaving David and Julie were reaching the pass.

A well earned rest

The long downhill to Nunthala was hard going, more or less stairs made from big slabs of rock but the height of each step wasn't regular. There was a lot of mud where the trail had been used by mule trains transporting goods over the pass. A couple of them passed us when we were climbing to the pass. Nunthala was supposed to be visible soon after descending but the mist that was now covering the top prevented this. Brin did point out a blue roof in the haze and said that Nunthala was a it further down after that. When we reached the blue roofed house we could see Nunthala half an hour away. It was still hard going and the tea house was a welcome relief when we saw Brin waiting to usher us in. After dumping our bags in the room a cup of tea and a hot shower were the order of the day.

A wellcome to the lodge at Nunthala

The dinner tonight was, for me anyway, the best yet. We started with the local wine, it tasted like vodka but thankfully not as strong, it was called Chang and fermented from millet. I then had Muno, a sort of doughy dumpling and a vegetable curry. They gave me some curry powder to sprinkle over the vegetables and it made it a very hot, and delicious meal. Moira had an omelette and we finished off by sharing an apple pie.

There were three single beds in our room so I put the extra mattress on my bed and was much more comfortable than last night. It wasn't so cold but we were both well wrapped up anyway keeping nice and warm.