EVEREST TREK : DAY 8

Day 8. Phakding to Namche

Sunday 17 March

We had one continental breakfast this morning between us. I had the porridge and Moira the egg, there was one piece of toast each. The bread for the toast was a British type from a white loaf.

Typical suspension bridge

We left a little earlier this morning and when we crossed the suspension bridge to the other part of Phakding there was a huge tour party outside their hotel preparing for their day's trek. I had to stop to adjust my boot which was rubbing on my heel and they started off in front of us. The number of people in the party wasn't a problem it was the large yak train transporting their baggage. They slowed us down for an hour and we didn't get passed them until they stopped for water at Benkar. Occasionally we overtook a stray yak but Moira got really annoyed with the handlers who gave it a whack with his rope to get it moving just as she was passing.

Once clear at Benkar it was over another suspension bridge and a fairly clear road. It was now only independent trekkers and the two Danish guys from last night's lodge caught with us. The route followed the valley of the Dudh Kosi and while accompanied by the yaks it had been slow going and we didn't notice the undulations. When on a clear road we now were aware of some steed climbs especially up to Monzo where we stopped for tea.

Dudh Kosi valley

There were some good views up the valley and a pointed peak at the top dominated our horizon all morning. Even with the yak problem it took 2 hours to Monzo, in line with the guide book. We were half way to  Namche according to my map. From Monzo it was an easy slightly undulating track to reach the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park where Brin arranged for our entrance permit while we viewed a model of the region in the visitor's centre. Everest clearly predominated, much higher than the other mountains in the area.

View at the head of the valley

 Once in the National Park the route dropped down many steps to the river and we crossed another suspension bridge to the village of Jorsale. Brin said to stop here for lunch, even though it was early, as there wasn't anywhere else until Namche. We had veggie chow mien for a change from soup. It had been cold all morning the sun never broke through the cloud cover. We had our shorts on but after lunch we put our track suit pants on top. It was just as well as it began to snow on the steep climb up to Namche. 

The trail began easily enough from Jorsale as we dropped down and followed along the banks of the Dudh Kosi. Soon we climbed up a series of steps to a cross a suspension bridge to the opposite bank and the tough ascent began. We were in a canyon and the shear faces of the mountains towered on on each side. It wasn't quite a Munro only 700 metres but it was very hard and relentless. There were spots of rain and we donned our waterproof jackets, the rain soon turned into heavy snow. As we entered Namche it was like a winter wonderland. Our lodge was a welcome sight.

Caught in the snow

A winter wonderland

Moira did the washing in cold water and I wrung it out. The snow had gone off and the sun was peeping through so we hung it out on the line. Our hands were freezing with the cold water, fortunately the dining room was warm and a hot cup of tea helped to get the blood circulating again.

We met a couple, the guy English and his wife German, who work in Cambodia for a NGO concentrating on human rights. Another guy from Holland had spent a year studying in New Zealand and was making his way back to Holland via China, Mongolia, the Trans Siberian railway to Moscow then home.

The snow came on again while we were having tea, Brin brought the washing in and I hung in on hooks in the room. It was still soaking, hopefully the sun will be shining in the morning to get it dry.

We had a mushroom pizza and a big bowl of spaghetti with cheese and tomato. It was a big feed. Brin managed to get us extra blankets, actually big fluffy duvets. We were very warm and comfortable. It was a bit noisy at first with people thumping about in the corridor and above, but by 9 pm it was peaceful.

Sagarmatha National Park entrance